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The Install Videos

Originally Posted by SlikNik Video #5 link is up rca run / power wire run / ground location see original post for link SlikNik, your videos were a ton of

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Old 01-17-2010, 12:40 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlikNik View Post
Video #5 link is up

rca run / power wire run / ground location

see original post for link
SlikNik,
your videos were a ton of help today when I installed my amp and front speakers. Just a note... if you have a MT, the clutch mechanism is installed just above the gromet you used for your power run. Unless someone is willing to disassemble their hydralic clutch mechanism or they have extremely small hands, that gromet is pretty much inaccessible. I ended following the suggestion of pg6speed and removing some of the electrical tape and going through the main wiring gromet by the battery.


Thanks again for passing on your experience and saving me a ton of time.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:02 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Same place I used mototrmpt that grommet is pretty easy to use.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:24 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting those.

I use these plastic trim tools for interior or areas on or around painted surfaces. Metal will scratch stuff:



$7.99 for a 5 peice set:
Harbor Freight Trim Tool Set
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:25 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mototrmpt View Post
SlikNik,
your videos were a ton of help today when I installed my amp and front speakers. Just a note... if you have a MT, the clutch mechanism is installed just above the gromet you used for your power run. Unless someone is willing to disassemble their hydralic clutch mechanism or they have extremely small hands, that gromet is pretty much inaccessible. I ended following the suggestion of pg6speed and removing some of the electrical tape and going through the main wiring gromet by the battery.


Thanks again for passing on your experience and saving me a ton of time.
I ran into this problem today...however, there is another grommet just like this one on the otherside. I did have to remove the cowl on this side and pull the battery out. This was so I could take a long philips screwdriver and poke thru the insulation/sound deadening material. I think this might be easier than the main wiring grommet.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:31 AM   #50 (permalink)
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On your door molex connector video, here is a tip for others:

Drill a hole like in the video. Then remove the big grommet in the door FROM the door. Put some electrical tape on the tip of the speaker wire to make a smoother point for the wire to snake thru the rubber hose. Start from the door end, and snake the wire from the door thru the hose to the connector. When you do this, try and make the hose as straight as possible. I tried to grab the wire in the hose and help feed it up and thru from the outside. Once I saw the tape, I then used small plyers to grab it and pull it out of the connector. Pull the wire thru and then feed thru the connector on the car that you drilled the hole for. Replace everything and done.

After about 30 minutes of getting nowhere, I tried the above and got it snaked thru in about 10 minutes. This should save you some time.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:29 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jikhead View Post
On your door molex connector video, here is a tip for others:

Drill a hole like in the video. Then remove the big grommet in the door FROM the door. Put some electrical tape on the tip of the speaker wire to make a smoother point for the wire to snake thru the rubber hose. Start from the door end, and snake the wire from the door thru the hose to the connector. When you do this, try and make the hose as straight as possible. I tried to grab the wire in the hose and help feed it up and thru from the outside. Once I saw the tape, I then used small plyers to grab it and pull it out of the connector. Pull the wire thru and then feed thru the connector on the car that you drilled the hole for. Replace everything and done.

After about 30 minutes of getting nowhere, I tried the above and got it snaked thru in about 10 minutes. This should save you some time.
Little tricky to snake it through on the first side you do but it is a couple minute job once you get the hang of it. It really is a short distance to snake the wire and taping it like you suggested is a good tip.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:45 PM   #52 (permalink)
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One thing to add to all of that is use armor all or wd-40 to help it slide works like a charm.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:02 PM   #53 (permalink)
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O_O Nik, you rock!
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:31 PM   #54 (permalink)
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O.o These videos are awesome! Can you give some more detail on how you ran the power wire from the battery post along the firewall to the entrance hole that leads to the inside of the car?
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:53 PM   #55 (permalink)
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O.o These videos are awesome! Can you give some more detail on how you ran the power wire from the battery post along the firewall to the entrance hole that leads to the inside of the car?
Not sure if you're referring to the person who posted the video or my comment, but...

The small grommet that is behind the battery, I can't remember if it's visible as is. You may have to remove the passenger side cowl to see it. But you definitely need to remove the cowl and battery to run the wire. After removing, it's a bit tricky to get the grommet out. I used a small-tipped flathead screwdriver to get the grommet out. I then "scored" the center of the grommet in a pattern like so - * - so that the power wire would go thru the grommet and at the same time keep a very snug and water-tight seal. Now the hole in the firewall has about 1/4" insulation on the inside. I took my longer philips screwdriver and poking it thru the material. You have to use quite abit of force to force it thru. Once done, you can then feed all the power wire thru to the inside, replace the grommet back on the firewall, replace battery and cowl.
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:07 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jikhead View Post
Not sure if you're referring to the person who posted the video or my comment, but...

The small grommet that is behind the battery, I can't remember if it's visible as is. You may have to remove the passenger side cowl to see it. But you definitely need to remove the cowl and battery to run the wire. After removing, it's a bit tricky to get the grommet out. I used a small-tipped flathead screwdriver to get the grommet out. I then "scored" the center of the grommet in a pattern like so - * - so that the power wire would go thru the grommet and at the same time keep a very snug and water-tight seal. Now the hole in the firewall has about 1/4" insulation on the inside. I took my longer philips screwdriver and poking it thru the material. You have to use quite abit of force to force it thru. Once done, you can then feed all the power wire thru to the inside, replace the grommet back on the firewall, replace battery and cowl.
Thanks for pointing this out and clarifying. I appreciate your help.
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:29 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Awesome videos slik. I'm ready to rip my car apart this weekend and you've helped drastically.
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:58 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Good video. I see your located in FishHawk which is close by where I live. Any possibility to listen to your audio? If so, PM back.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:47 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Awesome vids my man I have a question can I replace the OEM base radio with that of the Bose HU without any limitations thanks BUD
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Old 04-17-2010, 06:44 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I wouldn't bother, Bose system is not really good. Better than the base, yes, but I don't think it would be worth your efforts for the $ you would spend. Purchase a quality double din headunit with navigation and build your system around that.
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