SlikNik awesome videos man! Do you ever feel like the jl audio 12w6v2 is too much for the 370z? I can't decide between the 12w6v2 or the 12w3v2....any advice or input would be greatly appreciated thanks!

Never enough, think it is a perfect sub for the 370. Better to have plenty there and not need it than to need it and not have it.:happydance:

Great video thanks for doing this it's going to help me out a lot!

Hey SlikNik,

I just started another thread asking about this, but as you seem to know a lot about this topic, Ill ask directly here.

Im currently awaiting the arrival of Polk DB6501 Speakers... Im not changing the headunit (yet), nor amping the speakers. Just using the stock HU for the moment (hopefully by december Ill get something). My question is, what cable connection do I use (source) to go into the crossovers? I would assume using the speaker cable going into the door panel speakers, and closing off the OEM tweeters (as the new tweeters will be powered through the crossover).

Please advice.

Manuel

awesome video props to you for taking the time to make this.

Question.. At 4:50 this might be dumb but how did you mount that one power wire onto the battery mount? like physically on the battery not the process of running the wire through the car to get there is what I mean. Also it was one blue wire but on the battery there are two? Im guessing you spliced them and made two?

Thanks again for making these vids definitely something I'm gonna give a try

Thanks Sliknik, these videos gave me the confidence to install new speakers in the doors. Just a slight change, it is very easy to pop out the power window and door lock modules from the trim unit, much easier that pulling the wiring harness, and then the door panels can be moved to the side. Takes less than a minute to do this. The harness connections are really tight.

Also the wires according to Crutchfield customer service, are Drivers side Blue positive, purple negative. On the passenger side purple is positive(!) and green is negative.

Just finished my Boston acoustic SR65 installs and they sound so much better. The stock units look like they cost less than $5 to make, pretty cheesy speakers.

good video,the cars movie,Fit some electrical tape within the tip of the speaker wire in making a smoother point for that wire to snake via the rubber hose. Start on the door end, along with snake the wire on the door thru the hose towards the connector.

Is there another wire harness adaptor needed for the other antenna? I have the same scoche wire harness but my avic 930bt will not power on.

nice post, thx 4 ur kindly sharing

Usually around 8-10 hours, if they want to throw it in they can be done in 5 hours.

Yes there is a antenna adapter, the blue wire will get connected to either your REM wire of your head unit or a dedicated powered antenna wire.

Scosche TK12 Complete Car Stereo Tool Kit, Includes Voltage Test

Same kit SlikNik used ......

Scosche panel removal kit on sale now- got mine no tax free shipping $14.99!!

Im curious as to how well the Dynamat worked for road noise in this car.

sound deadening
 

It helps to reduce sound resonance but does not eliminate the tire noise from the rear. Next I'm going to try some external sound reduction material added to the rear wheel wells.

Nice videos. Thanks. By the way you can get it from any auto part selling shop.

Great videos defiantly helped with my install. Here's a tip - when snaking the speaker wire through the doors - i used a thinner wire (a weed whacker line, firm plastic). Once i had that threaded through, I taped the speaker wire to one end and then just pulled it through using the weed wacker line (kind of like that rca pull tool). It took about 5 mins, but did this after trying to snake the speaker wire through for like 20 mins.

Sorry if this is the incorrect place to post this, I didn't want to make a new thread.

Does anyone know if I can just remove the speaker grilles without removing the door? I'm pretty sure that my speakers aren't stock, but I want to double check and I don't really want to remove the door just to check the speakers.

I don't have my Z anymore, but unless they've changed something in last couple of years....the grilles and door panel are all one piece. You'll have to take the door panel off to do anything.

.

they are one piece. Only takes like 2 minutes to remove entire panel, though.

Just wanted to take a minute to thank the OP for the removal and install vids, particularly the console removal, and amp power cable run sections. They were invaluable to me for a recent stereo install in my '14 base coupe...

Hey just wanted to say a big thank you for posting these videos.. they helped out big time for me yesterday.

I forgot to mention, I did a speaker and speaker wire upgrade..

one more big THANK YOU for creating the audio install videos. They were really helpful this weekend!

Can anyone elaborate a little more on how the wires are ran when using crossovers? I am also going to pick up a set of Polk 6501 components and I am curious how the entire system wires up... Are you starting at the HU and then snaking the wires from the crossovers to the individual speakers in the doors and tweets? I think I am just confused as to how the wires are ran and where they need to go. It seems like a ton of wire and a ton of work to do this? Am I correct?

I want to replace the HU, Components and add a sub just like the video....but I am confused on the wiring part.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

HU will have RCA wires output in the back. You will use that as your audio signal to the amp/amp. From the amp, you will run speaker wire to the speakers keeping polarity the same for all apeakers (+/-). If the speaker set comes with a crossover, you will run then amp to the crossover, crossover to low/mid pass (LP/LF) to the big component speaker, and the high pass (HP/HF) to the small tweeters.

Quick breakdown for you
-Headunit gets connected to wire harness, antenna, back up cam then RCA to amps

-Amps get power from battery (with a fuse or breaker in between), ground (any big metal piece like belt or seat bolt), remote from wire harness, speaker wires out to speakers or crossover then speakers..

YzGyz

Okay....so just to make sure I understand.....you are simply running RCAs to where you mount the amps....from the amps you then run your speaker wire out to the door, tweets and sub. I got you....

I assume this is where most people mount the amps in the middle of the car....then run the new speaker wire up through the side kicks and through the door grommet.

Sorry for the noob questions but I am new to wiring this all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes rca down the middle to the amp. You also run the remote wire down the middle to the amp also. The remote wire is simply a 12v power wire coming from a source that turn off when the car is off and on when the car is on. The amp uses this ogg/on signal to k nm ow when to turn on and off so it don't drain your battery 24/7. I think I taped the cigarette power outlet and used it as the remote wire. But yes to the rest. Down the middle and side seals.

YzGyz

Thanks YzGyz! I think I got it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk