Not worried about any over heating issues?

Lots of room down in there and my JLAudio Hd900/5 runs pretty cool.
I live in Florida so my ac is usually on as well.
This recent cold front that has pushed down into Tampa is crazy. Highs only around 50 degrees for days now. I am over it, bring back 90 soon:tup:

Thats cool. Im currently specing out a system that i want to install during the spring time. I feel that i am going to have a hard time finding locations to place 2 amps, power and ground distribution box, cap, and cross overs.

I put my crossovers under the seats. I think you could fit 2 amps in where my amp is if they are the new small type that many audio companies are making now.

As far as the cap, not sure where you could put that.

Good luck with your install

Ah, thats where you put the cross overs. Ok, that makes sense. I still have quite a bit of time. Ill just do some measurements and hope two amps can fit in that area. The cap can always go behind a seat.

O man wiring will be fun.

Thanks. Hopefully i can make this happen in the spring time.

SlikNik,
your videos were a ton of help today when I installed my amp and front speakers. Just a note... if you have a MT, the clutch mechanism is installed just above the gromet you used for your power run. Unless someone is willing to disassemble their hydralic clutch mechanism or they have extremely small hands, that gromet is pretty much inaccessible. I ended following the suggestion of pg6speed and removing some of the electrical tape and going through the main wiring gromet by the battery.


Thanks again for passing on your experience and saving me a ton of time.

Same place I used mototrmpt that grommet is pretty easy to use.

Thanks for posting those.

I use these plastic trim tools for interior or areas on or around painted surfaces. Metal will scratch stuff:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...7099/67021.gif

$7.99 for a 5 peice set:
Harbor Freight Trim Tool Set

I ran into this problem today...however, there is another grommet just like this one on the otherside. I did have to remove the cowl on this side and pull the battery out. This was so I could take a long philips screwdriver and poke thru the insulation/sound deadening material. I think this might be easier than the main wiring grommet.

On your door molex connector video, here is a tip for others:

Drill a hole like in the video. Then remove the big grommet in the door FROM the door. Put some electrical tape on the tip of the speaker wire to make a smoother point for the wire to snake thru the rubber hose. Start from the door end, and snake the wire from the door thru the hose to the connector. When you do this, try and make the hose as straight as possible. I tried to grab the wire in the hose and help feed it up and thru from the outside. Once I saw the tape, I then used small plyers to grab it and pull it out of the connector. Pull the wire thru and then feed thru the connector on the car that you drilled the hole for. Replace everything and done.

After about 30 minutes of getting nowhere, I tried the above and got it snaked thru in about 10 minutes. This should save you some time.

Little tricky to snake it through on the first side you do but it is a couple minute job once you get the hang of it. It really is a short distance to snake the wire and taping it like you suggested is a good tip.

One thing to add to all of that is use armor all or wd-40 to help it slide works like a charm.

O_O Nik, you rock!

O.o These videos are awesome! Can you give some more detail on how you ran the power wire from the battery post along the firewall to the entrance hole that leads to the inside of the car?

Not sure if you're referring to the person who posted the video or my comment, but...

The small grommet that is behind the battery, I can't remember if it's visible as is. You may have to remove the passenger side cowl to see it. But you definitely need to remove the cowl and battery to run the wire. After removing, it's a bit tricky to get the grommet out. I used a small-tipped flathead screwdriver to get the grommet out. I then "scored" the center of the grommet in a pattern like so - * - so that the power wire would go thru the grommet and at the same time keep a very snug and water-tight seal. Now the hole in the firewall has about 1/4" insulation on the inside. I took my longer philips screwdriver and poking it thru the material. You have to use quite abit of force to force it thru. Once done, you can then feed all the power wire thru to the inside, replace the grommet back on the firewall, replace battery and cowl.

Thanks for pointing this out and clarifying. :) I appreciate your help.

Awesome videos slik. I'm ready to rip my car apart this weekend and you've helped drastically. :rock:

Video: audio install
 

Good video. I see your located in FishHawk which is close by where I live. Any possibility to listen to your audio? If so, PM back.

Awesome vids my man I have a question can I replace the OEM base radio with that of the Bose HU without any limitations thanks BUD

I wouldn't bother, Bose system is not really good. Better than the base, yes, but I don't think it would be worth your efforts for the $ you would spend. Purchase a quality double din headunit with navigation and build your system around that.

+1 rep to you my friend, what a great video. If I didn't already have an amp and speaker upgrade done to my stock head unit I would do it myself after watching that. I decided to stick with the stock head unit just for the fact that I want to concentrate on performance on this car as opposed to my Infiniti FX http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/1...eadunit-2.html. I went nuts with that car, dual video monitors, play station 2 that slides out from under the front seat, integrated the front nav screen for video and games and a sound system that would knock your socks off.
. I will be using your vid on the cubby removal so that I can hard wire my nav unit that I have hidden in the cubby. Thanks for the help.
Kindest regards,
Tom

Hi Nik, I realized that the enclosure sold by ZEnclosures has 1.18 cu ft and the recommended by JL Audio for the 12W6v2 is 1.25 cu ft. Did you feel any loss of quality or power? I'm thinking serious to get the same enclosure for me since it fits better than the factory one made by JL.

Thanks and congrats for the videos... I'm still taking courage to make it by myself. lol

Not at all Rockhounds, it slams hard in that box. I love mine. I put some poly fill in the box but really don't think it made a difference.

Ok, just bought mine from ZEnclosures. By the way they shipped really fast... I bought it yesterday at 11PM and this morning around 9AM I received an e-mail with the tracking number - incredible!
I have another question for you: my system includes a Pioneer Z110BT, a pair of Focals Polyglass 165 VR 6.5", JL Audio HD 900/5 and JL Audio 12W6v2. The power wire I'm using is the JL Metawire 4 gauge for a single amp but I'm stuck on the RCA cables... I'm seeing a bunch of Streetwires Zero Noise with different channels. I'll bridge the 4 channels for the midwoofers/tweeters and the mono channel goes to the sub. Should I have to get a Zero Noise 9 for 4 channels?

Is there a better way to get everything hooked up?

Thanks!

Audio system installed today guys. It's beating up... the Focals are incredible and I'm happy with the 12W6v2 but the enclosure could be a little bit better in my opinion. I've noticed also that when I'm not listening music, there is a small background noise like "shhhhh" that I'm not sure whether is normal or not. I took the car to bestbuy but I don't know if that was the best option.

Can anyone put a video on how to program the PAC-swi-JACK for a kenwood NAV?

BIG help
 

these vids are aweesome and saved my butt when doing my wn install.
Quick questions...when replacing just the door speakers, and not the head unit, how can I tell which speaker wires are positive and negative?
also, if my car did not come with rear speakers, is there already a place for them and do the interior panels work for adding rear speakers?
Thanks for any help,

i believe I guessed....

there are holes in the back ... but there is no cables ... so you have to run the cables your self...
I can't remember the size.. but they are smaller than the ones in the doors...

something is doing ground... that sound is not normal ...

wow!!....first time lookin at this thread. nice vids!!

+1 rep for you, sir. :tiphat:

Sweet videos. I am in the process of installing Components and a new Headunit at the moment.

For the tweeter mounts. I just used a plastic DVD case, cut it to shape and mounted the tweeters to it. Works like a charm.

Thank you for the videos, SlikNik. They helped me a great deal when I installed my HU yesterday.

UR welcome :tup:

your videos was great i just had one question, what did you use for the steering wheel controls

didn't bother installing that feature, there is plenty of info on that subject. Just type in a search for steering wheel controls.
:tup:

Typically how many hours of labor are we talking about, say if I were to take it to a shop? To throw in a HU, front and rears, front tweeters, and an amp for the sub, and a ZEnclosures box?

Thanks
 

Thanks a TON for this vid post!!! I plan on doing my setup tomorrow and was wondering how I wanted to do it as well as how to do it. FANTASTIC step by step, detailed, clean job!!!

As others have said, great videos! They will definitely come in handy when I begin tearing my car apart.

I've gone back and forth between two 10s or one 12 and I think I'm going to go with one Fosgate T1D212 and a P700-1bd. Still not sure of the amp placement, but I like your choice.

Door Removal Tips
 

I used your door removal video and have a few tips for others.

Tips:

1. Leave the window (glass) up or down.
2. Leave the 2 cables connected and just place the interior door panel leaning up against the door.
3. Remove the 6x9" speaker housing with the 6 1/2 speaker attached by disconnecting the speaker wire clip to gain access to the inside of the door panel. Now one can add sound dampifer material behind the speaker. Check for window clearance with the glass in the down position. (This improved the sound from the speakers)
4. Do not add sound dampifer material pass the interior door panel clips.
5. Temporary tape the thick mass load damping material prior to premanently gluing it.

Thanks for the videos SlikNik they were very helpful.