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New 2015 Owner - First Z

Just picked up a new base model 6-speed -- loving it so far... Had been lurking on the forum prior to purchase, and have some questions. I plan to do

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Old 07-11-2015, 07:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New 2015 Owner - First Z

Just picked up a new base model 6-speed -- loving it so far...

Had been lurking on the forum prior to purchase, and have some questions.

I plan to do a full dynamat & dynaliner install on the doors and rear bay. Seems to be pretty good DIYs on door panel removal and removing all the panels from the rear bay. This brings me to some questions about upgrading speakers.

Have no real intention of replacing the HU as this 2015 has bluetooth & USB audio integrated, and I use my iPhone for navigation. Which brings me to upgrading speakers. Stock is dash tweeter and door mid/woofer.

1) If I want to upgrade speakers do these each receive a full range signal from the HU or is there a crossover somewhere??

2) Are the tweeter and mid powered separately -- or is the signal just split or crossover somewhere coming off the HU??

3) Are there any factory wiring harness adapters available so I don't have to cut into factory wiring??

Can't seem to find any info on these things and will help me better determine what I will do / if anything.

Appreciate the help...

Last edited by chopin_guy88; 07-14-2015 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Well I did a little more research and got into the 2015 service manual and it appears that there is a crossover somewhere after the headunit -- it doesn't appear that the tweeter and woofer have their own built in crossovers...

This kind of answers #2 and will make it quite difficult to change out the speakers without altering factory wiring -- which I really wanted to avoid if possible...
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Does it have the Bose system?
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnetic Z View Post
Does it have the Bose system?
Nope just a base model with the 4 speaker system...
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My impression from reading on this forum, is that the speakers on the non-bose should be the normal 4 ohm impedence. Should be able to directly replace the speakers for better ones. Not sure if there is a built in crossover or not. Would think that it would have to have something to protect the front dash speakers. Could always put a capacitor in series with the positive wire on the dash speakers to block the base. Crutchfield has got those for like ten bucks and call them base blockers.
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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what he said... straightforward replacement of existing speakers. No wiring mods necessary.
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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what he said... straightforward replacement of existing speakers. No wiring mods necessary.
I was entertaining this and then saw some other posts stating it's not a good idea to use components without their intended crossovers -- so not sure where this leaves me...

At the very least I know I will be doing the sound deadening with dynamat/dynaliner....
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopin_guy88 View Post
I was entertaining this and then saw some other posts stating it's not a good idea to use components without their intended crossovers -- so not sure where this leaves me...

At the very least I know I will be doing the sound deadening with dynamat/dynaliner....
What if you just got some better quality replacement speakers instead of component style? Surely, this would give you much better sound and you wouldn't have to worry about it not working properly. Am thinking that component style is usually more power hungry in order to get the proper performance out of them - which would require an amp instead of HU power.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnetic Z View Post
What if you just got some better quality replacement speakers instead of component style? Surely, this would give you much better sound and you wouldn't have to worry about it not working properly. Am thinking that component style is usually more power hungry in order to get the proper performance out of them - which would require an amp instead of HU power.
Thanks again -- we shall see. Don't think coax would work after hearing the imagining of have a separates stock. And the issue with going coax is also whether or not the current woofers get a full range signal or not. This is one of unknowns of whether there's a crossover somewhere between the HU or not...
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnetic Z View Post
My impression from reading on this forum, is that the speakers on the non-bose should be the normal 4 ohm impedence. Should be able to directly replace the speakers for better ones. Not sure if there is a built in crossover or not. Would think that it would have to have something to protect the front dash speakers. Could always put a capacitor in series with the positive wire on the dash speakers to block the base. Crutchfield has got those for like ten bucks and call them base blockers.
HYou do not need bass blockers. OP if you buy a 6.5 componenet set the crossover that comes with them will take care of what frequencies go to what woofer/tweeter. It is recommended you run new wire from the new head unit to the crossover and to your speakers sense the stock wire is so thin.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
HYou do not need bass blockers. OP if you buy a 6.5 componenet set the crossover that comes with them will take care of what frequencies go to what woofer/tweeter. It is recommended you run new wire from the new head unit to the crossover and to your speakers sense the stock wire is so thin.
Thanks for the reply -- I understand that the crossover does the frequency separation. What I do not know is:

1) Do the stock tweeter and woofer receive a full range signal, and they have their own independent filters built-in? And if this is the case, I'm guessing the signal is just split coming off the HU? or

2) Is there a factory crossover somewhere after the HU?

That being said, I am not installing a new HU, and would like to avoid cutting into factory wiring, if possible.
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Old 07-17-2015, 04:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I had my doors and hatch area done in Dynamite...made a difference, however there is a such thing as overkill or as they described to me as, point of little return.

I had a major audio install done...and wow did it turn out great ! and sounds fantastic.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:28 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdfan67 View Post
I had my doors and hatch area done in Dynamite...made a difference, however there is a such thing as overkill or as they described to me as, point of little return.

I had a major audio install done...and wow did it turn out great ! and sounds fantastic.
Plan on doing the same to doors and entire hatch area: dynamat extreme with 1/8" dynaliner on top -- then a layer of second skin luxury liner pro...
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Old 07-20-2015, 01:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Man is lining your doors in dynamite really safe though. I'd worry about getting t boned. I kid. The more sound deadening threads I see the more I contemplate doing my hatch. I swear pulling the hatch cover makes it a tiny bit quieter.
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