Quote:
Originally Posted by miguez
Great write-up as a follow up to travis' DIY, wstar, thank you. Good idea no the kill switch. Just thinking out loud, would it be better to route the positive cable through behind the panel and driver's side, so as to have a kill switch on that that could be located somewhere in the panel? Considering this is more of a race car than a street car, I was just thinking if you get into a track accident you might want to kill the battery for whatever reason.
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Actually, it's more a street car than a race car, my street cars are just a bit different in focus than most I guess
I am actually going to get a cover made for the new battery area and then put some carpeting back in so I can throw groceries and luggage back there.
A driver-reachable killswitch isn't a bad idea, although I don't know if I'll do it personally. It would probably be better to set up a remote switch rather than run even more length of positive battery cable. Something like this sort of kit:
Painless Wiring 30204 - Shop For Painless Performance Remote Master Disconnect Kits Battery Disconnect Switch - Toggle - 250 Continuous Amps Rating - Kit 30204 at StreetPerformance.com (not that I'm endorsing them specifically, that was just from a quick Google search).
Actually a good compromise for my case would be to use a breaker for my rear switch, so it will trip in the case of a short. I'm not sure what amperage rating will work or who makes an appropriate application at this point though.