You didn't say if you had the sport brakes or base in your OP. The base brakes are super easy as you only have one bleeder valve per wheel. The sport brakes are a little harder to do because you have two piston cavities to bleed, a inner and an outer piston set.
Start your bleed process by the wheel farther-est from the master cylinder which is the passenger rear. Bleed it until you have no air bubbles. Next go to the drivers side rear. Next go to the outer front passenger bleeder valve, next is the inner on the same side. Last will be the drivers side front starting with the outer side first and then the inner side.
Like I said, I use a vacuum bleeder from Griot's Garage that allows you to put a constant vacuum on the bleeder valve while you pump the brakes (very slowly). One trick to doing this right is to lightly coat the bleeder valve threads with a little grease so that air can't sneak by and give you air bubbles.
The vacuum bleeder I use https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...ortby=ourPicks
Good luck and I hope you get the feel that you are looking for with the brakes.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!
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