So im ready to pull my hair out over this one. Its really cutting into me enjoying the car at this point because I only get one good run down the track before it starts to lose fuel pressure and cut boost (the new innovate boost controller I have is awesome for cutting boost when she starts to go lean).
I upgraded the wiring all the way to the bulkhead of the tank, altho I might cut that apart and go all the way to the pump. There are no leaks and the regulator is set at 58psi cold hooked up with the 1:1 to a boost only source as per reccomendation.
When its heat soaked its hard to start, I have to turn the key to acc let the pump self prime itself for 2-3 seconds then she will fire right up. If I get in and just turn the car on in one button push she does crank for about 4-5 seconds and struggles to start. When the car is cold or cool this does not happen.
What I am starting to think is happening is that basket of fuel is getting warm and fuel is not entering the basket as fast as it needs to under WOT (under wot down the 1/4 mile ive seen it drop to 38psi, at 10lbs of boost thats only a 28psi pressure differential, not good). I am thinking that this 340 pump is just moving to much fuel for that basket to keep up with, and now it is returning hot fuel to that basket and causing cavitation at the pump.
Has anyone ever cut holes in their basket to help with this issue? Ive even thought about adding a fuel cooler to the car but im not convinced that will help me either as its just because the loop circuit is so small.
It all started after doing the fuel return system, and I know its getting hot because that regulator the fuel travels through is cooking (it is installed on my firewall just beside the battery). Normal driving up here its cool enough that it usually doesnt happen, but when we were down in vegas with the cars it really had a hard time.
At a loss....
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