Also, here's a pic of the Evo2 battery install:
My install is mostly like ChipsWithDips's install over here:
Ballistic Performance EVO2 16cell battery in 370Z - Imgur . The key differences are:
1) I used 2x 6AWG wire for each of the main connections. I was originally going to do 1x 4AWG, but the 6AWG is easier to bend and work with, and a pair of them is electrically equivalent to a single 3AWG wire. No issues there, the wires aren't hot or anything right after starting.
2) I re-used the same Lightning Audio LCB-200 breaker I had on my old relocated setup. It's nice to have a fail-safe in the case of a massive short-circuit somewhere in the car, and it's also a convenient switch to shut off the battery when doing electrical work. I hard-attached it to the negative post of the battery by screwing a terminal lug directly between the two. This is a temporary solution, I'll eventually remove the breaker whenever I get around to upgrading to a nice racing kill-switch system, probably this one:
Battery Isolator XS, or something similar.
3) I dug in my old parts bins and found my old stock battery tray to use as a base instead of fabbing a metal one. The only thing I changed about the stock tray base is I drilled out the 6 rivets that attach that metal bracket to the underside that's used for the stock hold-down, and removed that piece.
I did several more engine starts (something like 5-6 starts and stops in the space of 20 minutes?) last night while playing with the transmission wiring and every start was snappy, so I think it's got plenty of excess cranking capacity. I can't speak to how well it would hold up to the residual drain on a stock car's electrical system if the car's off for days though, seeing as mine's so minimized. After all that and then sitting off overnight though, mine was still reading about 13.2V this morning, so at least I know I don't have any serious problems in my new wiring draining it.