Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyBobo
I like this...but, when you relocate the battery, dont you need a remote cut-off switch or something to pass tech?
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I imagine it varies by sanctioning body and classification, and in some cases the rules don't care whether the battery is relocated or not either. For example NHRA wants an external kill switch on the rear of the bumper, and some NASA stuff wants one inside the cockpit in reach of the driver.
AFAIK, generally speaking, kill switches mandated by safety rules should cut the positive side rather than the negative side, and generally they need to cut all electrical function, not just the battery (so it's not enough to just put a switch inline with the positive battery cable: you have to kill power to the spark immediately as well, which I imagine means one or more of: switching off the alternator's output, switching off the ignition coils' input, switching off power to the ECU).
On my jerry-rigged homebrew relocation solution, I put a 200A breaker on the negative side close to the battery (inside the trunk) as a safety feature against any sort of battery short-circuit condition, and to make it easy to disconnect the negative side when working on the car. It has never tripped when starting the engine, even on hard starts (long dormant + cold weather). But this doesn't qualify as a safety kill switch in any sense.