SUPPOSEDLY if you run the 350z rear brembo's you can fit a 16" z32 turbo, or fd rx7 wheel with a 5mm spacer

My humble opinion on the matter is to just go all the way to 15s and swap when you want to use the meat.

The 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle are the same. With the wheel off, it is literally 2 bolts to swap, and the 10mm brake hose line. I have found that when switching from the sport brakes to the 350z base brakes, it only took 2 or 3 pumps to bleed the brakes... it was so minor I didnt even have to top off. It was like 5-6 pumps to bleed the sport brakes after swapping back.

For the 20 minutes of work (since the wheels are already off), i would use dedicated brakes for the meats rather than trying to run decent brakes back there that would work with road course use too.

just my take on it. because even with the 28s on 15s, i had to take care to launch and it was taking several practice runs and I destroyed clutch by the time I started to get the 60s down. Although, I was being a little foolish by not lowering the pressure as much as I should until several passes in.

Yup I may start acquiring the parts for this, found some motorsports dry break fittings made for brake systems that would allow a bleedless swap.

That or put some speed bleeders in the calipers.

those have been around since longer than i have... but they used to be really expensive. not sure how much i really trust the less expensive options. bleeding the rear is so quick and easy though that it doesnt really matter even if they do let in a little air.

Why do 28s send a Christmas tree and not 26s?


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By virtue of being a 28 itself is what causes it. The diameter is too large. The wheel speed sensor system detects it via the decreased axle speed offset relative to the front axle, and it causes a fault. A simple, but not free, way around this would be to increase front tire rolling diameter by an equal proportion.

If there is a 3% or more difference between any tire on the Z. The dash will light up.

Anybody have the specs of the Weld wheels on the first post? I have the specs for 17's.

Those wheels are Billet Specialties. They are 15s. Since the diameter has no effect on width or offset, you can use the same specs as you would for any other diameter wheel.

Ah makes good sense!
So how would I go about making sure the increases are proportional in both front and rear?
Do you go by overall tire diameter or does the wheel size have an effect as well?


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You have to go by tire height. What's the rear tire specs you want to go with? What do you have on the front now?

I would like to run a 28x10.5-15 non W as that’s the biggest tire most small tire races allow. I currently have nitto invos 285/35-19 in the front.


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That's about 2.5" difference in height, or 9%. Sticking with a 19" rim. A 245/45-19 is about 27.7" in height, or 1.2%. A 255/45-19 is 28.1" or 0.3%. Both will work.

Thank you. Ideal rim size would be 9” wide or would that be able to fit on 8.5” and save a little weight?


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The 255 will fit a 9" no problem. A 8.5" rim. I would go with the 245.