look for some used snow tires. With the Z sizes being so odd, you can find some great deals. I bought my Blizzaks for $125 for the set, they were a season old!
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I was initially skepticial about running different tires/coumpounds front and rear, but the more and more I delved into it, I found that some people use them to bias the oversteer/understeer characteristics, and to change how the car handles. I dont know how legitimate those claims are, but from my personal first hand experience - I originally ran the RE970AS on all four corners. The limit of grip in cornering was near or slightly below stock levels - I had more understeer than before. I also noticed something that fundamentally changed how the car felt - the soft sidewalls caused the car to "lag" to driver input, and when sharply darting the car into turns, the car would wobble a tiny bit before settling in. It also accentuated the body roll of the stock suspension. This was a noticeable contrast to the stock RE050A - it felt like the car was on rails with the summer tires. I decided to switch my fronts out to the Potenza S-04 Pole Position - immediately, after leaving the tire shop, I felt the responsiveness I had felt with the RE050A. Any driver input, and the car darts in. I really think the front tires help the most with the initial turn in. Of course, the rear of the car still has a tiny hint of lag, but the fronts transformed the car back to how it was. |
UHP A/S tires do have their purpose. Single line dismissive posts remind me why the intertubes is a bad place sometimes. I though we had better signal to noise here :P
For a car that sees no *snow* but cold dry temps, they are a safer alternative then trying to get by with summer rubber that is not made for that temperature range and will suffer from glass phase changes due to exposure. Leaving my house in November its 20F in the AM...high of 45. Summers tires bad. Actual snow tires are way to soft mid day. UHP A/S, juuuuust right. - b |
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