Ya just did some googling and not what I'm seeing either. Why the hell would anyone buy PS2s?!? Way more expensive

might be oem tires? like RE050A's you can buy them, costs more, but not as good as the S04's... kinda.

spacers
 

What do these actually do? Is it for looks or does it improve traction? someone explain in a nice informative way.. THANKS

For Jimbo:

Mainly looks.
But since you widen your vehicle's stance (for lack of a better word) you increase grip in the corners. Disadvantage is that you make your turning circle smaller.

I don't think 99.9999% of us notice the last 2 things

At first thought, I would have said that stud replacement spacers are far stronger and durable than the bolt on type. But reading the above, the way you put it, I want to change my opinion on the situation.

I was sold on only doing this using the stud replacement type spacer but now that I read it this way, it looks like the bolt on might be the better choice.

Which is the better choice from a durability standpoint and not just an "easy install" point of view?

Seems to me that the fewer mechanical connections holding the wheel to the hub the better, but now I'm second-guessing that idea.

I tend to break things that I drive and I don't want my wheels to be the weak link.

I'm considering a set of aftermarket wheels that have lower offsets than the 19" RAYS but not low enough, at least in the rear. The fronts should be ok (going on the notion that an additional 15mm - 20mm up front is ideal) at 20x9 et30. That's 17mm less than stock putting me smack dab in between the 15 - 20 window. The rear is what will need a spacer. 20x10.5 et25. That's 11mm less than stock. If I add a 12mm bolt on spacer to the rear that will get me to 23mm which is smack dab in bewteen the 20-25 window for the rears.

This should be good, right?

20x9 et30 on 255/35/20
20x10.5 et13 on 285/30/20

Suspension = ARK GT-F springs (1.20f/1.0r)

what is a good brand of spacers besides h&r and ichiba?

If your rear wheels are 20x10.5 +25 and add a 12mm spacer, that will take your wheels to a +13 offset. That will definitely look better. I'm also looking forward to seeing your ARK GT-F setup, I always wish mine was lower.

I've used Z1 Motorsports slip on spacers (2mm, 5mm, and 10mm) and they're cheap and reliable.

Anyone install Eibach pro-spacers 20mm bolt ons to the front end? did anyone notice that the original bolts protrude by about 3/8 of an inch past the 20mm thickness? I know there is a small cavity in the back of the rays rim but I test fit it and I then I took the rim back off and saw that the original nut indented itself a little into to back of the cavity. I didn't even torque the wheel yet. I just push it flush with my own hands. Would anyone have any thoughts on if I should go forward with the install or not?


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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/yvate9yn.jpg

See the little gauge over the 'SS' in Nissan.


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pretty sure this is why it is not recommended to use larger bolt on spacers for the front wheels. however, i am no expert and cannot say if you will run into problems.

Decided. Going with 25mm in the front instead. I hope it doesn't look to ridiculous.


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Interested in seeing how this turns out if you don't mind getting some pics up here after you do it.

I took the spacers back to the shop to exchange. Eric said that he's done 20mm bolt-ons many times. He slapped them on for me and showed me. They looked flush to me. I'm gonna test them for a few days and see how it goes.


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Has anyone tried running 20mm in the front and 25mm bolt on spacers in the rear with stock 18's from a 2013-14 model? If so did you have any issues?

I have the 2014 sport package wheel 19x9 front 19x10 rear. Any opinions on a wheel spacer thickness what would look clean and a little more aggressive? thanks....

http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7a181fe6.jpg

Not the best pic, but I recommend 20mm front and 25mm rear.

I picked up 20 and 25 spacers from corner3garage. Very nice product, no interference and they bolt right up. Even better, they are only $100 for the 2 pairs when you buy the springs. I like the end result even better than I expected.

Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out what size rear spacers I need and if my calculations are correct.

Stock rear 19" are 10et30 which is 97mm of poke from the hub.
Stock front 19" are 9et47 which is 67.3mm poke from the hub.

I am running:
Rear 20x10.5et27 which is 106.3mm poke from the hub.
Front 20x9et20 which is +93.3mm of poke from the hub.

So I am already poking out 9mm more in the rear and 27mm in the front.

Should I go with +15 in the rear or +20? I'm only at -2* camber in the rear and -1* in the front. Will be lowering the car another half inch after fenders are rolled though.

Hey guys quick question
 

20x11 +28 for rear.what size spacer?im running a 275/30/20.thanks fellas

15mm spacer will make you flush with the fender and plenty of tire clearance. If you are going for "stance" look though (as you are running a stretched tire), a 20mm will work and the rim itself will poke just past the fender while your tire tucks under.

This should be stickied.
 

Hey guys, had some time to kill at work, so I made this that should help answer general questions.

Green cells indicate stock wheel poke.
Blue cells indicate flush at stock height.
Yellow cells indicate wheel poke for lowered Z's. Flush at -2 camber rear and -1 camber front is at the highest yellow cell for each given wheel width.
Red cells indicate wheel poke PAST the fender ON A LOWERED Z, I would not recommend any of these sizes. (unless you're going for stance and such, but this post isn't made for you).

How to figure out what size spacer you need to be flush? If you are lowered, look for yellow cells, stock height look for blue cells.

Lets use the stock wheel sizes and suspension. 10 wide et30 for the rear. Find in the chart and you see 97mm of wheel poke. Look for the highest yellow cell in the 10 width. You see is at et5 This means you can fit a 25mm spacer on the stock wheel to reach flush. Do the same for the front, 9 wide et47. To reach flush (et 25) you can use 22mm of spacers.

Find the image here as well in better quality: http://i.imgur.com/PUJiYSu.png

Would there be any issues with adding 20mm spacers in the rear and leaving the front stock? I have the stock 19 inch wheels...

Yes the back would almost be flush and the front will be battle shipped as hell. Looks wise it will look half as bad as stock lol.

These are V3 bolt-on 20mm front and rear, the car felt a little sluggish after I had them installed. However, the car did handle better and felt better, but again, they are heavy.

I know some disagree and claim they can't tell the difference, I can, especially coming out of turns. The experts claim that 1 lb added to your wheel is equivalent to adding about 20lbs to the car's total weight, the total of 8.5 lbs would be around 170lbs added to the car's total weight, sort of like riding with a passenger, which everyone would probably agree that makes a big difference.

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...psb2f58023.jpg

Adding any sort of unsprung weight, or adding more rotational mass is bad for handling and control.

I guess some OZ super lightweight rims in 18 inch would be good for the unsprung weight of the Z.

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Yeah the lighter the better SSR type fs are good Enkei rpf1s ect...

Geez
 

I'm beginning to think bolt ons might be the way to go.
...and I'm thinking I ought to wait until I've done my drop and it's settled out before deciding on what size spacers. Bolt ons would be a snap to do.

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Guys apparently im retarded and can't figure out which option i need. I want 15mm all around but i need to have the same travel length for the bolts. Can someone put a picture or tell me which option i need based on that chart from page 1? Thanks

More info!
 

Lots of good info and opinions here. So.. my 2 cents.... H&R bolt on (not the loose stud one) worked great on my 2012 (red also) with 18" stock, 20mm front/25mm rear. When I got ready to trade I removed them, and used them on my new 2014 w/19" Rays, Sports Pkg, with no issues at all.
Go to H&R website and enter your car information. Be sure to read the notes (click on) to be sure of fit or call their 1-800 #. The 20/25s look great and fit perfectly. Sorry I don't have the part #s anymore.
I didn't know anything about all this either at first, but it's not hard.
Cheers,
Chuck

So I finally took the plunge on this yesterday. Here's my story.

Since everyone on here seems to have differing opinions it was hard to know what size to get. I decided that using 10 or 15's was not something I wanted to tackle or pay for (since you have to remove the brakes and the hub and swap out studs) . So it was either 20 or 25. Since you can't return them after putting them on, and they cost $150, I decided to eat a little freight and only order 2. I had both of them put on the same side of the car so I could see what 20 looked like up front and in back.

Here's what I've determined based on what I have on my car, with stock tires and sport wheels, stock camber alignment. All observations are from looking straight down from the top of the outside fender.

FRONT
15 would be about 1/4" inset
20 is flush
25 would poke about 1/4"

BACK
15 would be flush
20 pokes about 1/4"
25 would poke about 1/2"

I am not a fan of poke. Poke to me reminds me of 2 things, 4 x 4 trucks (which look good with poke), and ricers with Honda Civics with ridiculously offset wheels (which looks stupid). I prefer flush. Knowing this, I LOVE the 20's on the front. They are perfectly flush. BUT, 20's on the back are slightly too much. I would prefer 15's better. Anyone liking the 25's on back likes poke. So if you want flush, 20 front and 15 back is the way to go.

So I had a big decision to make; do I buy 2 more 15's for the back and go through the hassle and cost, or do I just stick with 20's even though they poke slightly. I decided to just stay with 20's. I'm 95% happy with that look. It's not perfect for me, but I just don't want to screw with the other kind, or pay for it.

Pictures up next. (Just uploaded the pics. For some reason they are now darker and not as clear as they are as originals. Sorry)

at stock height 20 on front pokes a little bit especially when you look at the car from the side/rear.

i hated that look and decided to get the nismo wheels for the perfect fit for base. :icon17:

if i was to run spacers on stock sport 19's with stock tires at stock height on base, i would do 15 front and 10 rear both stud replacement types.

Maybe I should clarify. When looking straight down from the top, I am referencing the fender and how it lines up with the top outer edge of the tire. Not the bottom (near the ground) outer edge of the tire.

- 20 on the front does not poke past the fender, it is flush.
- 20 on the back does poke about 1/4".

I don't think you can properly judge poke from the front or rear really because of the shape of the fender and the camber in back. Using that, the stock wheels are flush (because the bottom of the tires are flush with the top of the fender). I know when you look at the car this is how you see it, but trying to describe the amount of poke from that vantage point is not going to be consistent because it changes as you go up or down the tire.

It would appear you prefer a light inset, so I think your idea of 15 on front and 10 on back would do that exactly. That's why, since I would prefer flush, the 20 front and 15 back would be my ultimate preference. Same as you, just 5 mm (0.2249718785") more to make it flush.

I am having this work done for me, so the whole stud replacement option would probably be as much as having my brakes done. Waste of money in my opinion. If I were doing it all myself it might be a different thing. I will live with the 20 on back even though 15 would look slightly better.

And by the way, Nismo wheels are good looking wheels, but the sport wheels are GREAT looking wheels. ;):tup:

Front Wheel
 

Here are some sequential pictures of the front wheel looking straight down on the rim.

It starts from farther out then moves closer to the vehicle for a more vertical picture.

NOTE: You will see that my wheel was slightly turned while taking these pictures so they aren't perfect. But I think if you can visualize a little you can see that the wheel/tire would be exactly flush with the rim if it were turned straight.

Back
 

Here are some sequential pictures of the back. You will see that in the end there is about 1/4" poke.

OK....newer Sport wheels and spacers
 

I have a 2013 Sport 370 with the latest Sport wheels. The 19" 'Swirl' ones.
I had them off today while doing toe bolts and lockout bolts.
I specifically looked at the backs (insides) of my wheels today because I couldn't find a definitive answer here regarding whether or not one can FOR SURE get 20 mm BOLT-ON spacers on the front of a car with the latest Sport wheels.
As I see it, if the mounting nuts holding the spacer to the hub sit flush to the face of the spacer (that is, don't stick out beyond the outboard face of the spacer) there is a TON of room to accomodate a stud that sticks out well past the face of the spacer, and (and further, I'm speculating a bit here) likely even plenty of room even if the mounting lug nut does too. I didn't take a picture, but there is a pretty decent size, deep cutout between the wheel mounting holes. I'm now going to try H&R bolt-ons all around now. 20 mm on the front, either 20s or 25s on the rear.
I will update this with how this turns out.
I know there are some people who say they've not had a problem, but about an equal number who state you cannot. I need to find out for myself.

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20 mm spacers
 

Today I did a test install of one 20mm spacer on the left rear of my Z to see if I would run 20s or 25s. The plan was not to get too fancy because they were coming right back off again. We dropped the car back on the ground, and I drove it back and forth a few times, braking at each end to get the car to settle.
I took some pics but they were on a BB and were so atrocious I haven't posted them. My pics look JUST like these. There is no way I could go to 25s on the rear. I bought one pair of 20s, now I'll get a second pair.

With reference to my above post;
There were absolutely NO issues with the spacer mounting lugs extending past the face of the spacer, so cutout room on the wheel is of no consequence. (the stock studs did though) The room is there, it's not needed, at least not for the lugs. I will still have to look at the front wheels again.

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