Invo's fit with ease up front (pinky-finger) & rear's are a bit tighter (1/2 pinky-finger@traction arm bolt & maybe index-finger@shock)...The 345 PSS's are about 1/2" wider at the section; would get interesting bolting those up w/8" back-spacing wheels.
I cannot complain about ride quality or handling with these wheels/tires,,,even in all of the rain we have been recently getting.
They just knife through the water instead of any hydroplaning.
One thing that is required...lol...you have to stay in the throttle a bit longer before coming to a stop/as 4'+ rubber on the road is way more than what i took off +added 48lbs. rotating mass....sorta washed out some of my added bolt-on power...also 2-2.5mpg less.

optionZ - Did you look at how much internal space you have to the strut and inner liner?

Mine was primarily for the look's,but still will blister them if desired...they have added 1 sec. to my 0-125mph,,,so looking into a gear swap-but loving the ride/handling on the 27" tires.
The 20" wheel's will actually give a tad more backspace clearance,as they will fill the groove in the upper front's & help clear the traction arm bolt...Would have to go Forgeline w/20's,,,if i get the opportunity...eyeballing the SPL book at fuca's,mid-link's,camber,traction arms & a good lowering spring that's around 1" or so.

Didn't measure it, confident i didn't need to given how many people run crappier . . . i mean, more conservative fitments.

If they fit, i can fit, since i'm mainly pushing outward. i don't experience any rubbing except on the steepiest of ramps taken in correctly (so driver laziness). preserving my front bumper is a bigger concern than rubbing, which is why i haven't gotten a front lip yet. if i get a cup kit, i'd feel ok with a lip

The Z has cavernous wheel wells, which is why I frequently tell people that once they step up to adjustable suspension components (basically, SPL everything) and a good set of coilovers with independent height adjustment and find a good alignment shop, there is nothing you can't fit

if u want to run zero offset and dump the car, you can do it
if u want to stuff as much tire as possible, you can do it
and of course u can do everything in between

all it takes is adjusting the height, camber, and caster, plus a fender roller (most places charge like $100 for all 4 corners, they should even discount u if you're getting other stuff done)

FYI - the guys on the track forum seem to be running 285 and/or 295, albeit in much sticker compounds than street guys. anything else is really just looks or for turbo

I DD and track my Forgeline's. :tup: :driving:

Go BIG or go home. :tup: :driving: Why do you need 20's? 19's are enough.

simple
for looks
and at the time, the 19 inch TE37 didn't have enough concavity
of course, as soon as i ordered it, the 19 inch TE37 ultra was released

but i still prefer 20s for looks

tall *** tires do nothing for me

Front Spec: 19x10.0 +29
Rear Spec: 19x11.5 +30

Tires sizes are Front 285/35/19, Rear 325/30/19, RE11's for both.

I can't afford to get too crazy with the camber due to driving 25,000 to 30,000 miles a year. So that was a big factor. I had a chance to buy 20' top of the line 3 piece wheels but I passed. I prefer to run the RE11's due to how sticky they are and how long they last. Spinning the 325's running NA right now with the OS Giken LSD is very hard to do. LOL I could dump the clutch and get them spinning but I just don't see the need.

and I don't like gum bands wrapped around my rims either. :D

:tiphat:..i was more or less talking about monoblock wheels. 3-pieces are rebuildable. Kiss those suckers goodbye if you smash a monoblock.

Bought them in a special close out sale from your rack. They maybe discontinued for this size, I looked it up again and it's not showing. I was going for 265/35s but for 88 ea I bought the 265/40s. Little did I know I made a mistake buying taller tires. Given another chance I would buy the right size and not went cheap. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4446d9c004.jpg

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Yep;
Those are Full-sized meat's on a 9" wheel,,,
a 245/40 or maybe a 255/40 would have cleared...but i remember trying on my 275/40's up front on rear base wheels & it was taken right back off.
You did well spending that small amount for tires-may be able to re-sell them for at least what you paid?

I think I would do that. It would be the simplest way to solve my problem. Since I messed up on the tires, I should just replace the front and run stagger. As much as I love to run square, it won't happen with 265/40s size.

So...
Overall diameter for 265/40 is ~26", while 255/35 is ~25". (F:255/35 R:265/40)

Anyone have experience how our cars handle with rake from different tire size.. Or it won't make a difference?

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Be sure & get an accurate measure on clearance; as would not be good to buy 2 more tires & they scrub also...slight rake makes fuel gauge more accurate (lol).
I'm 26.8"F & 27.1"R drives great.

Did more internet reading.. 265/35 Pirelli p zero is slight wide than re-11 265/35 by 0.2 inches.
So definitely going with 255/35. this seems the general setup, comparing anyone running a 18x9 +15 in front, in the forum.

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