I'm taking my winter tires/wheels off tomorrow morning and putting the sports back on along with my new H&R spacers; I can't wait! :tup: I just hope I don't have as much trouble as you, AK!

You broke a stud after putting them on at 80 ft/lbs? Hell, 80 ft/lbs feels like nothing with a good torque wrench...hell, seized or not...

Dubya tee eff?

I wouldn't dare Auto-X at all, AK...that could be a lot of lateral force put on the wheels, and you may strip out the threads on the other studs. Just take it in and get the stud fixed ASAP. It'll be ok on regular driving for a while Im sure.

Oh yeah - one more thing...get a quality 1/2" breaker bar, extension, and 21MM socket for your lugs. Just food for thought :)

+1 on the 21mm socket. I just about tore up one of the stock nuts with a 13/16". The stock nuts seem to a little angled for some stupid reason. A 13/16" fits on the top of the nut, but won't go all of the way down.

Swapped mine out today. Waxed the wheels and the brake calipers. The car still looks like I've been driving through a barnyard, but the wheels and brakes look great! :icon17:

I'm almost afraid to wash it because I think I have the most incontinent birds on the planet nesting near the Z. How do such small creatures crap so much? :icon14:

Definitely wouldn't auto-x on it. Auto-x often puts more load on the wheels than the track does. Never seen a stud just break like that without reason, it's very odd.

Autozone or NAPA probably carries a few metric studs in a suitable length for an emergency fix. It's pretty easy to do the repair, especially on the front.

Honestly, even I didn't know how it happen. I think I blame the socket. I think I tried 13/16 but it didn't fit. Then went with 7/8 (can't recall correctly). I'll pick up a 21 mm. thanks :tup:

Anyway, the dealer did not have the lug in stock. So, maybe Tuesday or Thursday I have to get it fixed. Dealer wants at least $140 labor + lugs :icon14:

They want like $140 labor. Dam dealers :shakes head:


ok .. thanks.

Awesome. :tup:

$140?!? Jesus...thats ridiculous. I'd buy the stud from them and take it to any other shop with a machine press, personally. All it has to be done is pressed in. I used an old set of lug nuts on my old Camaro to simply pull the new stud through, but it wasnt very fun lol. $140 sounds ridiculous though...I'd call around...

And 21MM fits like a glove :)

Just gave my baby a bath and put her summer shoes back on along with spacers and the coilovers. I think she looks purrrrdy! :tup:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...ment-8aspx.jpg

You don't need a press, you can do it yourself easily. See Modshack's DIY. A little tiring without an impact wrench but still quite doable.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-install.html

Thanks everyone for your help and useful links. Due to my busy schedule, I had the dealer do fix the lug. Surprisingly it wasn't too much at all. Labor + part (lug nut and bolt) was ONLY $118. While I was there, I asked him to reset my TMPS as well. Since it takes ONLY 5 minutes, I asked him if he would do it for $25. He agreed. :tup:

Unfortunately, the system (computer that they use to reset the TMPS) was down. So they couldn't do it that day.

Today, I go back to the dealer for the reset. I bring my car into the service area (open area in front of service desk instead of the back area where they have lifts and stuff). So, I simply stood there and saw the whole thing which was pretty cool.

Basically first they connect this small OBD ll device (connector with a wireless tail) into the OBD ll connector. Turn the car on to ACC ll mode (before ignition) Then, they turn on this small netbook type PC. I think once all four tmps are recognized in the PC, they take a small wireless device (4"x 4") close to the valve stem and hold it for 5 seconds. The hazard flashed confirming that it's reset :tup:. He did this on all 4 wheels. This whole TPMS Reset process (from start to finish) takes about 5-7 minutes.

So, when everything is all done, they guy (tech) gives me the key and say, "Here's your key. You're all set and good to go". So, I thought he meant I'm good to go and now I should pay at the counter. But in reality, he meant "I'm all done. He wouldn't take any money from me" . I think that was pretty awesome. Probably the nicest thing any dealer ever did for me. I felt really bad I couldn't tip him. He simply gave me the keys and disappeared. I couldn't find him again.

So, this shows how simple and quick this procedure (TPMS reset) really is. If your dealer charges more than $50 (some members even reported $110 :shakes head:), maybe it's time you go to another dealer :tup:

I had the same thing happen a couple of years ago on my 350. I mentioned my problem to the tech and he said no problem I'll reset them.
Of course I had to pay $92 for my first oil change at the same place. :mad:

AK, this has been my experience at the tire store I frequent as well. Whenever I have needed a TPMS reset they have just given me the key fob when done and made it clear there was no charge. I have purchased a few sets of tires from them and had a few alignments there and their willingness to do the TPMS resets free of charge have certainly made me a more loyal customer, as I am aware of how much some dealers charge for the service (especially considering it just takes a few minutes as you stated). I'm glad you had a similar experience at your dealer.

Silly question. All you guys that are driving your Z in the snow...Do you all have the Sport package and do you think the LSD helps in the snow? Also, if you have an automatic..If you are stuck starting off on ice, can you start an auto in 2nd gear, and do you have to turn the traction control off...at least to get moving?

We have serious car hockey as a winter sport in Denver....It sucketh. I know the trick about starting off in 2nd gear in a manual.

An LSD by its very nature would help in a slippery environment...thats just a silly question...

Yah...Had to think it over before I put it in writing... :nutswinger: Getting mixed info from salesmen. Was told it may cause "unexpected traction" and "jerkiness (paraphrasing)" in snow/ice...different condition than what it was designed for.

Please forgive my ignorance...Leave dealerships with more questions than answers sometimes and you folks are all I have.

In my FJ, I've only lost traction twice (offroading), but in my old Sequoia I was told that if I was stuck I would have to turn the traction control off or I wouldn't be able to get moving. Turn TC on, after movement. Valid for Z?

Still valid questions in original post. Looking for actual experience vs theory. Did searches and read everything I found...May not be doing searches correctly.