A loot of folks here like the K&N filter -- I use that one myself, FWIW

part number for the K&N oil filter is HP-1008

Wow. Sad.

The OEM filter uses cardboard inner stuff. Ok for 3k I'd guess. Never had issues with my WRX running 115 more HP than stock. Now I use Puro 1 yellow filter. It has steel inner stuff.

They were ****? Or they tell you they were ****? Big difference. I highly doubt they were ****. They are the most expensive plugs on the market with the best metals. And from data logging my car with cai, LTH, CBE, they look amazing!! Little rich WOT in the upper rpms, but nothing to hurt a plug. My WRX ran a full 1.0 richer at WOT and were fine. Unless they changed the tune in 13, I'm sure your logs were ok too.

Well thinner oil will leak past the valve seals and piston rings and get burned up in combustion. This is why RL says their oil is like a full 10w higher than others with the same numbers. If its a bad oil or left in to long, then you scare the walls and such leading to more leaking. Guys with over a 1qt per 1-3k have done something wrong. Subi was an issue because all turbos leak a little and the M1 just shoots by. I'd have to compare 5w30 and euro to see a difference. I ran 5w40 RL in the subi to lose zero over 3-4k. That's like a 5w50 M1.

Make sure the tuner has a Knock Sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ummm what? What car doesn't have a knock sensor and in the ecu definitions, fine learning knock correction and knock correction advance??

Don't confuse yourself with Subaru stuff!

But yes the Nissan has a knock sensor and the right tuning tools will tell you what's going on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trust me or not but any good tuner should have a knock sensor while dynoing a car.

Not trying to argue with you but any tuner that has experience can certainly do without aftermarket knock sensors.

That being said , I have a set of really nice ones but I very rarely use then. Used it on my 650whp STi and a few crazy GTRs when I first started working on them.

John




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, obviously I never built a car. Ever. This is my first build. Expensive start but hopefully it will eliminate stupid decisions; which is why I am here to ask the questions and learn from mistakes and not pull the same stuff others have. Thank you guys for all of your advice.

As for losing about a quart a change well, Mobil apparently is crap oil, if I would have known better earlier in my money pits life span things would have been different. Regardless, learn me the ways of not sucking at cars.

Thought so. FKA, FKL...I'm sure all modern OBD2 cars have something vs. Going aftermarket.

It's not crap, just not ideal in all cars/motors. My/wife's merc c300 has euro M1 0w40 in it and doesn't burn a drop. It's got 5-6k on the oil now and it's still showing full. The car isn't raced or anything and I don't believe the motor runs hot so M1 is fine for this particular car.

No, I visually inspected the plugs myself and they were awful. Which may have been caused by a mix of wrong fuel usage by original owner and the mods.

Been using M1 5w30 for awhile. Haven't burned a drop of it. :tup: My Z doesn't use oil thank god. :excited: Last oil change I which over to the Euro M1 0w40.

I am running M1 0W40 as well. :tup: