My oil temp usually hits 140F before 2-4 miles/minutes. Gets to 170-180F within 7-8 miles/minutes.

Yes. My oil temp gauge is 140-300F.

Interesting. My oil gauge starts at 160 and doesn't really move from there till after 15 minutes at our winter temps. If yours starts at 140 it would seem more accurate because you can see movement almost right away. Does my previous post seem ok, normal?

That sounds slow to me. I'll let my car cool down to ambient (~60F in the garage and 50F outside right now) and see how long it takes to warm back up.

Thermostats start in open condition for engine coolant....just a fyi.

You may just have oil that doesn't heat quickly or your thermostatic plate is faulty.

Also those fan settings look factory. I set mine to be 100% by 180 in summer and 190 in winter with next lowest being %50 at 180.

The ECU interpolates between the values in a linear manner with hysteresis.

I should also mention that the ECU doesn't switch fully to the warm engine fuel values until the engine oil reaches around 180 f (90c I believe is the actual value) and to my knowledge power loss above 190 is just a symptom rather than an ECU commanded reaction (until limp home is triggered). Timing is controlled by the knock sensor exclusively.




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Wouldn't just covering half the oil cooler fix his slow warm up oil issue.

I think this would fix his issue till the ambient temps pickup or did I miss something?

Thats what I'm thinking triple. I have an oil cooler blockoff plate in my photo album if anyone wants to get an idea. Its good for about 30ish on up depending on the drilled hole size.

Not according to the CO section of the 2009 FSM.

See flow diagram at CO-2 and CO-22 says "1. Check valve seating condition at ordinary room temperatures. It should seat tightly."

My buddies failed in the open position....made sense at the time

According to Omar at UpRev, the ECM pulls timing advance when oil and water temps get above 230F and 190F, respectively.

Wide open is a common failure mode. IIRC, they are designed to fail open, but won't swear to it; it may just be serendipity.

No they don't. The bees wax in the charge expands only when at the proper temperature. Thus... It opens. (It starts closed)

Just took a little drive to see how long it takes to warm up. Outside temp: 48F and raining. Engine wasn't quite cold, but this should still give you a rough idea.

Your results are very similar to mine. I'll do it again and include water and residential. I can only see my needle move above 160 (stupid) while you can at 140. It took you nine minutes to get to the point where "my needle" would start to move and once your needle started moving your temp climbed to 180 in about 5 minutes. It's like it "unstuck" itself. Which thermostat are you guys talking about in the engine? Isn't this thermostat water related?

You should have (at least) two "thermostats" on your car. The one that I call just thermostat is located on the engine (top front, IIRC) and re-circulates coolant (water) through the engine when the coolant is cold, bypassing the radiator.
Then there is the oil cooler thermo-bypass which re-circulates engine oil, bypassing the oil cooler, when the oil is cold.
They both serve the same purpose - allow fluids to warm up quicker - but one is for oil and the other is for coolant.