Fan temps
 

Hi guys can someone post me the fan temps that should be inputed while doing my uprev tune? I have the gold series oil cooler. Now ambient temps of 65 (winter here now; in the summer a min of 95) the car takes half an hour to reach 170 with regular driving after installing the oil cooler. When I really jam it the temp max is 200 (now in the 'winter') in the summer probably higher. I have k&n intakes, stillen headers, and akropovitch full system. It's kind of annoying that it takes the car a while to warm up and I can't have fun on the way to work. Do you guys still recommend the fan? It won't prevent the car from reaching normal driving temps? It will just keep the temps lower when driving temp is reached? I never track the car and drive it hard every so often. Stop and go traffic is pretty serious here. Thanks.

Do you have a thermoswitch on your oil cooler so it does not fully open until 180?

It sounds like you don't have a thermo-bypass on the cooler. You want to bypass/block flow through the cooler until the oil warms up.

The ECM starts limiting power somewhere around 190F, so you want your fans on max a little before that. Play with it until you find a good setup. May have to tweak it a bit as seasons change.

No thermostat.

If you mean you removed the thermostat from the engine, then that's your problem with slow warmup. Put the thermostat back in and see what happens.

I think he means no thermoswitch (thermostat) on the oil cooler.

You really need to have a thermoswitch on an external oil cooler on a street car. I highly recommend the Mocal one.

I didn't remove the thermostat. I had to order the cooler from the states. I am over seas. I could get a thermostat now after installing the cooler system? They don't sell anything here in Israel. I would have to wait a month for it? Is it crucial to have the thermostat? I don't drive hard until the car oil has reached operating temperature of 180. You say to fiddle with the fan temps but I don't think anyone is competent enough to do that here. There isn't a standard set-up? Like thisAttachment 60198.

Those Uprev fan settings are fine.

Maybe one of our venders can get one for you but I bet you could order from Europe easier. Maybe from demontweaks??
Sandwich Plate - Mocal Sandwich Plates
http://cdn.racerpartswholesale.com/i...4103_large.jpg

Dr., what are the implications of driving the car w/o it? Does it cause damage? What would the installation demand in terms of work? For example, could I put it on the current system without any add-ons? Would I need to cut the the oil hoses? Which one from mocal would you recommend for a daily driver? Thsnks

I would try to keep coolant temps below 190F (ie, max fan at 187 or so) to keep the ECM happy, but I'm no expert. If that map is recommended by someone that knows what they are doing, go with it. You can always adjust it later.

As far as the bypass, you can get by without one temporarily, but baby the engine until oil temp gets close to 160F or so. It may help to temporarily block part of the cooler (a piece of cardboard works well).
I try to keep RPMs below 2000-2500 until the gauge moves off the 140F mark. When it gets to ~160, I'll let it rev to 2500-3000. I try to keep a moderate foot on the pedal until 180F. This is being very conservative - the oiling system can probably handle WOT once oil temp is above 140F or so. YMMV

The implications are that your oil stays thicker for longer. This is probably okay if you use a good oil and don't get on it until it is warmed up but it also means your engine makes less power and uses more gas while the oil is thicker.

You need the Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread MOC-SP1FT
You just replace the plate you already have with the Mocal one. You might need fittings or adapters depending on what your current plate setup is.

What is this piece? I have the stillen gold series oil cooler and it came with this piece. They call it a thermostatic plate. Attachment 60200

Sorry "thermostatic bypass plate"[ATTACH]60201[/ATTACH

That's it! Install it.

Edit: If you still have slow warmup after installing the oil cooler bypass, check the thermostat on the engine; it may be stuck open.

It is installed. I took it for a drive now 1/3 traffic and 2/3 open road at 55 ambient temps. First pic startup after 10 rest
Attachment 60225
Second pic after 5 min never going above 2500 rpm
Attachment 60226
Third pic after fifteen minutes with some highway driving under 2500
Attachment 60227
Another four minutes (19 total)
Attachment 60228
Then I pounded it for about ten minutes
Attachment 60229
It seems that once the needle starts climbing after 15 minutes or so it continues to move up at a much greater pace but stops at the last pic. Your lowest needle mark is 140F?

My oil temp usually hits 140F before 2-4 miles/minutes. Gets to 170-180F within 7-8 miles/minutes.

Yes. My oil temp gauge is 140-300F.

Interesting. My oil gauge starts at 160 and doesn't really move from there till after 15 minutes at our winter temps. If yours starts at 140 it would seem more accurate because you can see movement almost right away. Does my previous post seem ok, normal?

That sounds slow to me. I'll let my car cool down to ambient (~60F in the garage and 50F outside right now) and see how long it takes to warm back up.

Thermostats start in open condition for engine coolant....just a fyi.

You may just have oil that doesn't heat quickly or your thermostatic plate is faulty.

Also those fan settings look factory. I set mine to be 100% by 180 in summer and 190 in winter with next lowest being %50 at 180.

The ECU interpolates between the values in a linear manner with hysteresis.

I should also mention that the ECU doesn't switch fully to the warm engine fuel values until the engine oil reaches around 180 f (90c I believe is the actual value) and to my knowledge power loss above 190 is just a symptom rather than an ECU commanded reaction (until limp home is triggered). Timing is controlled by the knock sensor exclusively.




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Wouldn't just covering half the oil cooler fix his slow warm up oil issue.

I think this would fix his issue till the ambient temps pickup or did I miss something?

Thats what I'm thinking triple. I have an oil cooler blockoff plate in my photo album if anyone wants to get an idea. Its good for about 30ish on up depending on the drilled hole size.

Not according to the CO section of the 2009 FSM.

See flow diagram at CO-2 and CO-22 says "1. Check valve seating condition at ordinary room temperatures. It should seat tightly."

My buddies failed in the open position....made sense at the time

According to Omar at UpRev, the ECM pulls timing advance when oil and water temps get above 230F and 190F, respectively.

Wide open is a common failure mode. IIRC, they are designed to fail open, but won't swear to it; it may just be serendipity.

No they don't. The bees wax in the charge expands only when at the proper temperature. Thus... It opens. (It starts closed)

Just took a little drive to see how long it takes to warm up. Outside temp: 48F and raining. Engine wasn't quite cold, but this should still give you a rough idea.

Your results are very similar to mine. I'll do it again and include water and residential. I can only see my needle move above 160 (stupid) while you can at 140. It took you nine minutes to get to the point where "my needle" would start to move and once your needle started moving your temp climbed to 180 in about 5 minutes. It's like it "unstuck" itself. Which thermostat are you guys talking about in the engine? Isn't this thermostat water related?

You should have (at least) two "thermostats" on your car. The one that I call just thermostat is located on the engine (top front, IIRC) and re-circulates coolant (water) through the engine when the coolant is cold, bypassing the radiator.
Then there is the oil cooler thermo-bypass which re-circulates engine oil, bypassing the oil cooler, when the oil is cold.
They both serve the same purpose - allow fluids to warm up quicker - but one is for oil and the other is for coolant.

One if the thermostats you speak of (oil cooler thermo-bypass) is the one on the stillen cooler? So when people spoke of my thermostat being stuck open they meant the coolant one on the engine. I think it's ok because after 3.5 minutes and .7 miles the coolant clock reached working temps (one dot below the middle.)

Ambient temps 60
min miles oil

Highway
8 4.5 Slightly moved above 160
Residential
14 7.7 170
17 8.1 178
21 9.3 185

Looks normal to me.

PM'd