OK, we'll what I get after the upgrades and tuning and then go elsewhere and see what I get or just punch it and see if I like it. I'm not really into numbers I just want this car to faster than my old 300ZX TT (with 25K worth of upgrades). Just want to show some M3s and M* and other Euro "stuff" my rear spoiler. For government officials, I officially never go over 55MPH.

FYI - that's a dynapack dyno. It's a hydraulic chassis dyno that bolts up to drive hubs(wheels are removed). Dynapacks regularly read higher than dynojets - afterall, they are reporting hub hp and not wheel hp.

OK, now I'm confused. So it's not Flywheel HP and not wheel HP. Is there a formula to convert to WHP? How does it compare to Flywheel HP?

I'm getting Stillen G3 intake, headers, HFC, under pulley, grounding kit and Cobb tuning. Is there anything else before Turbos or Supercharger?

Also T-ray, thanks for the response. For a moment I thought I had the secret Special edition engine.

It doesn't really matter honestly. Even all the dynos that all read WHP read it differently, because they use different methods of measurement and aren't well-standardized and calibrated. So we have typical DynoJet results, which differ from typical DynoDynamics results, which differ from typical Mustang Dyno results, etc. This one is just way different (and much higher) than the rest. The numbers aren't that useful when comparing between different dynos anyways.

OK, thanks for the info guys. Got the car back today. Stillen Headers, HFC, CBE, CAI, Under pulley, Grounding Kit. Fang intake (Not sure who invented it but Kudos). Cobb tuner BUT NO SOFTWARE yet. Even though not tuned, engine looked good on Dyno. Met the software engineer for the tuneup. I'm an SE and I don't do this stuff. very cool. Tuesday Tune up day.

No chance, really. Bone stock with an average driver, an '02-'04 Z06 runs a 12.5 @ 115 MPH. On the Corvette Forum, the top-10 runs in a bone stock Z06 on the official list (proven, much like the list on the 350Z forum) range from 11.78 to 12.13 at anywhere between 117 to 120 MPH, with the top-6 being in the 11s. They are quick.

As for track/autocross...it was among the fastest cars on a road-course money can buy for its time. Much like in a straight-line, it will take significant modification for a 370Z to perform with a stock Z06. Now throw some simple bolt-ons on the Z06, and it just got even harder.

One item on HP/$. I had a 300ZX TT. Adding initial "100" HP was not bad: exhaust, ECU and something else I can't remember. About 2K. Next "100" was quite expensive. Invovled new turbos, intercooler etc etc. If you take an engine that is not that sophisticated, getting first sets of HP not bad. In the old days, slapping on Weber carburetors (yes I am that old), got big gains. The 370 is finely tuned and therefore not ready to throw out big gains as NA. SC or Turbo may get bigger gains but I personally am a little leery of punching an 11:1 compression ration engine. Need reliability. Daily Driver.

Blackbird

Like you through the years I've pissed enough money away on hotrodding that you could buy a garage full of new Z's and still have a bunch of mod money left over. Big blocks, small blocks, turbo's, twin turbo's, big nitrous systems, stroker motors, etc.

Money is a realitive thing and if your counting dollars per hp, it's probably not a hobby you should have. Just met someone while at the dream cruise in MI that did a twin turbo Z06. On 5 psi boost it made 651 rwhp. Completely redone from the O ringed forged bottem end to ported heads. Cost him in total $85K and the car was gone for a full year.

Trying to detox from big hp cars and N/A these cars really are a lot of fun. However, the hp bug is hard to shake and I just don't see much more in N/A gains. Eyeing forced induction and also leery of the 11 to 1 compression. The first trick is thicker head gaskets to lower the compression. After that it's a built forged bottom end.

What's the phrase......How fast do you want to go? Answer: How much money do you have.

Nice gains, very consistent as well. Although the car lacks a particular transition to power, the linear power/torque actually provide more usable power which is more impressive than a spike at any one rpm point. That is why the car does so well on the track, this isn't a car you want to buy as a drag car well, unless you are going TT.

As far as dynos are concerned, the key isn't so much the actual number but the numbers derived from the same dyno. In other words, don't focus on what power the car made, focus on the difference in power on the same dyno in similar conditions as you mod the car. If you are going to compare numbers, make sure and compare numbers on the same dyno. If person A dynos a certain number stock on dyno A and person B dynos a number on dyno B, it's not accurate to compare the two, as many have said, each dyno will read differently. As temps, humdity, etc change...so does the power. People keep forgetting that your timing will change depending on the environmental conditions. Elevation and other factors come into play as well.

I agree with original poster that a supercharger is the only way for us CA people to go. I have a bad temper and if some cop wants to take my TT370 I would go ape chit on him. CA does suck with all its laws but hour and a half to the beach or the slopes isnt bad.

ok I just read all of that and all i can say is we really need to have a process for just going in and indiscriminately just deleting the last four pages.

Other than that I picked up the same stillen headers for $470 shipped, I have some $300 test pipes lined up, and i have some extra throttle bodies I'll be using as cut-outs from there and doing some muffler mods(free). So you can either call that ~50hp for < a stack, or just that I'll have 4G's left to throw into suspension which won't add crap for hp. Oh and I can install all my own parts.

Edit: found the same ss304 test pipes for under $200

Rookie Question
 

I didn't want to start a new thread on this so I figured I piggy back on this thread..
I have a 2009 370z Touring with Sport. I installed the Stillen G3 intake, Stillen HFC and Stillen CBE..Now is an ECU tune absolutely necessary to get the full benefit of these bolt ons?
Man, I'm so freakin confused with this stuff! Yeah, I'm a total rookie! I just got into this modding and man, it's so addicting! I don't know what to do next. Anyway, I hope I didn't piss anyone of you off with my rookieness!

I'm confused also on these cars and been doing this literally for decades so don't let a rookie status be the excuse. Everyone is a rookie in the grand scheme as they're complicated buggers and new to most everyone.

Gonna say yes and no as to do you absolutely need it tuned. Regardless, you're going to see gains, it's just a tune is like shining your shoes. It optimizes basic engine principals like air fuel ratio, engine timing and lets you set your own parameters for things like speed limiter, rev limit, etc.

Problem is the ecu has been a hard nut to crack and the true tuning capabilities is still a black hole. The honest answer is no one really knows.

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Thank you very much! I appreciate the response. Guess I'll just stand by and continue my education on this.