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^ thanks! its nice to know that some of you here recognize us. we hope to prove ourselves all over again with this platform!
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sounds like you've got a winner... look forward to seeing the details
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Glad to hear something is in the works. I just had another fuel cut while getting on the highway yesterday and I'm tired of it.
I found your linked article interesting (cj-motorsports.com). Is the 'starvation' issue due to fuel in the pump's surge tank sloshing or in the main fuel tank? Perhaps just a small baffle in the pump's surge tank would fix everything. |
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This is the first sports car that I have ever owned where it shuts off when you drive it like a sports car.
I know where it's "threshold" for shutting off is, so I try not to push beyond that. Yesterday I came around an off camber cloverleaf from one freeway to another and made sure not to get on the throttle as I came out of the corner until I was mostly straightened out. It didn't shut off, but it went into limp mode where it would start missing if you open the throttle or go over 3,000 rpm. That's like the 20th time it's either shut off or went into limp mode and I really have been being careful to not pushing it too hard. |
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spearfish, please check your PMs
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OH so close here. Our full road-race solution is completely built and ready for testing. we also have a significantly less expensive street solution that should greatly reduce the problem for street drivers that like to take those ramps at 1+ g's... that version is just barely in the works but wont take long, its easier than the road-race one.
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Was talking about fuel starvation to a guy at work. I just came from the glen and was getting fuel starvation after the 2nd lap w a full tank. The guy was saying it might be fuel boiling off in the fuel rails. So he suggested a cold box. Has anyone tried that? My fuel would cut out after taking a sweeping uphill turn into a straight away and would die out at about 6000-6500 rpm for about two seconds then kick back in.
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Stay the course :) |
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Your slicks are generating some nice g-forces, I didn't hit fuel starve when I was at the Glen.
Of course now my fuel pump or one of the component is rolling around in the gas tank. |
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Man! I have tracked my car for two summers now and havent experinced this issue yet. Went crazy hard at the track 2 weeks ago all the way down to 1 dot of fuel! Today at 1/4 tank, took a sharp right hander on to an off ramp going uphill at full throttle , nothin! Sputtered , ran a bit, finally died. Of course parked on a uphill wont start at all. Just sputtered . Towed it to the dealer and it ran fine! Drove it home ran fine. I was still at 1/4 tank 20 min to gas station. Put $20 bucks of gas and it only went up 2 dots! Wtf? Any of you experienced pros of fuel starvation want to tell me what to change?
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I'm not sure why the fuel gauge isn't registering but the rest sounds very familiar. The engine will eventually cut if you keep on the throttle and starve it of fuel. And it may vapor lock on you and not restart right away. Will eventually restart good as new - no need for a tow.
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The fuel gauge has a mind of its own, read one of many posts about it.
Question, is the fuel pump accessible underneath the plastic foam in the trunk or do you have to drop the pump to get to it? |
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to get to the fuel pump is extremely easy. You can get to it in under 5 min.
behind the passenger seat is that little carpet "shelf". The shelf is held in with 4-6 push clips. Get a small pry tool under it and just pop it straight up. Pull out the sound insulation sheet, pay attention to how its in there because its a little tough to cram it back in when youre done, so its easier if you remember which way it was positioned. Then remove the 4 10mm bolts on the fuel pump access port cover. Lift up / rotate the panel enough to reach in and unplug the connector from the top of the fuel pump. There you have it. If you want to remove the fuel pump assembly, take out the 6 8mm bolts. Things to remember... do not do this unless you have half tank of gas or less, and the less the safer. If you open it up full tank, you will make a mess because the fuel pump is not at the highest spot in the tank, so when you take out the 6 bolts gas will spill all down the side of your tank. Another note... there is a 4.25" or so diameter Oring that seals your fuel pump assembly to the gas tank. If you plan to remove those 6 bolts and lift up the assembly, you may want to have a fresh oring for when you reinstall. they expand and become extremely difficult to reuse. i have the trick down to cramming in an expanded one, but first timers will waste hours trying to get that sucker in right. |
Cool! That's a lot easier than dropping the tank!
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Yeah. I wonder what is the work involved in removing the gas tank (dealer is doing it). I assume dropping the exhaust, driveshaft and other stuff?
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why would they be dropping the gas tank? You have to remove way too much to do that, i wouldnt even want the dealer doing that to my car. Ill put it this way, when there was a recall on a part and dealers had to remove the gas tanks from 350z, cars were falling off the lifts forwards because they were removing so much weight from the back of the car and had not taken enough care to balance the car for that.
you have to remove everything under the rear half of the car. everything. entire suspension and crossmember and differential and driveshaft and exhaust, etc. |
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Just read the manual, they do tell you about the access hole at the top. I think they will try to grab whatever it is from the top first and then see what broke inside. |
ok ya they would definiately know about the access port, every nissan (and almost every car) has had that for decades. i thought you meant they were going to remove it no matter what to either replace it or something like that... but if its just something loose in there then there is no point to removing the tank because they can access the only 2 openings from inside the car anyway.
Theres a couple things I can think of that could possibly break off inside the tank. Let me know what they find! |
I was relaying the message that the service guy told me, not the mechanic....
Actually, the Volvo I had DID NOT have the access port. We ended up cutting a hole on the subframe to save time as it would have been a 10 hour job. Stupid German design. I looked at the parts list, I can't see any parts that can come loose and roll around like a screwdriver. What do you think it is? The fuel gauge sensor seems to be working alright, so I don't think that is it. Who knows. I will bring it back in next week. I guess the fuel tank gaskets are special ordered item... |
there is a very poorly attached baffle on the drivers side tank just behind that access port that i could totaly imagine breaking off inside the tank.
there is an in-tank siphon line that isnt attached too meticulously either. Do these cars have a little flapper door where you insert the gas nozzle when filling up? I always thought mine did but the other day i noticed there isnt one there. i wondered if it broke off. I havent seen it down in the tank though and i have been in there a lot lately. havent really thought about it again until now. |
There is no flapper (or flapping) so don't worry yours hasn't gone missing ;)
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And WTF, you guys drive it more and harder than me and yours are still attached! |
mine ejected out of the fuel fill port ;)
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why me |
you mean they didnt want to try and weld it back on???
lol, i would ask for money of equal value to the tank and labor and forget the tank. that baffle isnt going to do much of anything anyway! |
lol i can see the guy being on 1000 ways to die if he tries....
the baffle isnt screwed or bolted on? how does a stupid welded piece come loose! the dealer thinks they can have it back in in one day. i think thats too optimistic. what do you think? |
I have been experiencing the same issues on sweeping right handers as of late.
The car is going into the dealer to replace some parts in the tank including the sending unit. I'm in for updates on the solution! |
just wanted to update... this week we had to spend a lot of time on other projects and tuning our TT 370.. this weekend i am out of town, but starting first thing next week we are going to begin wrapping up our 2 different solutions for fuel surge issues for you guys.
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Sorry to be off topic, do I need to redo my alignment after a fuel tank swapped
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it would be recommended to have the alignment checked. its not difficult for them to set all the alignment hardware exactly how it was... but it may be possible to slightly shift or alter the crossmember mounting... which would shift everything just a little.
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Well, looks like a new gas tank didn't fix my problem. I am done with these Nissan intermittent BS. Time for a new car
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I have been having an issue where my car acts like it is fuel starving driving on the street. The problem is that it can be at any RPM, any gear or any speed. It is all random in nature. The car's been down on and off for the past month for one reason or another. I am sick of dealing with it. There is nothing I hate more than an unreliable/untrustworthy car. I would rather take my losses and not deal with this piece of poop. You don't know how many times i have pleaded to the dealer that there is a hesitation, yet nothing will pop up during the test drive. I am hoping I can figure out the problem, but I honestly am about to trade this thing in and call it a day. I don't want to jack this thread, but I am absolutely done with these annoying random problems. ARGGGG
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You gonna stay with a Z or do you have something else in mind?? |
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