370Z Drift Project + angle + stability + control
 

This is how I got more angle and for my purpose it has worked well.

I cut the bump stop off
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If you do the same you should consider painting the metal because it will start to have surface rust fairly quick.

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This is what I used to make the inner tie rod spacer. This matches the inner tie rod perfectly and goes into the rack.

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I cut 6 MM for each ring.

Clean your inner tie rod and add loctite

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If you use the factory 19 inch wheel w/ 225 tire up front the wheel will hit the lower control arm. Yes there is an easy solution.

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To solve this you can run a spacer up front OR get a narrower wheel. I have tried many wheels and the one I am happy with is the 18x8 factory 2009 370z front wheels with 245/40/18 tire and it currently does not rub the arm.

MAD ANGLE (as compared to stock)

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When the suspension and bushing load up there will be even more angle.

On this ANGLE topic, the 370z has A LOT of Ackerman angle for drifting and scrubs speed fairly quick at large lock angle.

I have used the NISMO LSD PRO in 1.5 way and 2 way configuration and I have chosen to weld the DIFF because it feels the best and gives the rear end lots of extra floating off throttle.

I have also used ACT 6 spuck sprung and clutch master flywheel (steel) so you can resurface it and won't warp so easily with clutch kicks. + Z speed CSC is a huge improvement over the factory unit. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...08173.63.15.79


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I also installed some ebay test pipes from beluga racing for sound mainly...they work great, fitment was perfect.

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I changed all the fluids in the car.
Trans oil, diff oil, engine oil (10W-40 amsoil racing), power steering oil (this helped my car a lot).

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Electronics don't help this car drift so the YAW sensor needs to be killed off or put on a switch.

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The GREEN wire in the harness is the power to the YAW sensor.

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The Oil Temp from drifting or any spirited activity goes mental in the 370z so Z1 makes an awesome kit to keep the oil temps in control.

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I ran the lines a bit different from the instructions

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Bad A$$$ 34 Row Setrab

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Chris Forsberg was super kind with advice and sold me his DG5 coilovers (front spring 12 kg/mm & rear spring 10 kg/mm) from his Z (His race car does not use this spring rate). With it came advised alignments specs of 1/8" out front and 1/8" in the rear.

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Miro Ovcharik at MT-Fabrication mirodrift.com
Helped with Alignment, corner balance, test drives, feedback on shock setup, and some fab work.

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Added some Project Mu hand brake pads (aka d1 pads) Huge thanks to conceptzperformance.com for helping me source most of my parts.

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Swaybars are super beefy and help a lot in the dry
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Miro made a bracket to hold the fire extinguisher

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Really strong and excellent build quality

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I also asked him to make a hand brake extension that could retain the use of the parking brake function.

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With a Drift Knob its perfect.

In this video you can see how easy the car is to slide around.
370z Miro Drift #smoke - YouTube

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Thanks to ::

Mirodrift.com

chrisforsberg.com

conceptzperformance.com

z1motorsports.com

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I'll will update this thread as I develop the car.

Next steps:
Club Loose NJ (full season)
ABS delete + proportioning valve for the rear
Seats (you get thrown around a bit)
Harness
Cage

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Current tire size
245/40/18 square

You're a little guy. Only weigh 3 pounds?

LMAO!

Maybe he ate a fück ton of helium

:icon18::rofl2: Maybe linked wrong pic as we did play around with cross weights a lot and i have tons of pics...need to find the correct one.:tiphat:

Lmao, I kept looking at the pics pretty confused about that lol.

Sub'd. :D

Nice dude. How do those project mu ebrake pads?

They work well and when you tighten up the pad clearance it really hooks up well. Now with the extended hand brake its just on demand slide. :tup:

Recently picked up a new helmet and its much more low - profile than any other I've owned. Gives me the added headroom that is much desired with the factory seats. I did try others from Bell, Zamp, and Stilo before making the purchase. If your local to NJ area Stable Energies is a friendly place to try things out.

HJC AR10 II Fiberglass Helmet-Stable Energies

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thanks for the info iv been looking into as much angle as well . i have seen that they have outer tie rods from spl but iv only seen it in one place Steering Parts, Upgrades, and Accessories

what specs are you running as far as alignment front camber ,rear camber , rear toe?

Toe out 1/8" front and 1/8" in for the rear
Camber -2.4 front and -1.5 rear

No plans for a hydraulic e-brake?

I have looked into it but don't have enough justification for it yet. I'm pretty happy with the ebrake performance so far. I will do more testing and see how it handles the season. 1st event is on April 5th.

oooh April 5th! You going to Long Beach?

I wish! I'll be at Club Loose in NJ.

These are nice, but I'm waiting to see how Voodoo13 kit will be pieced together because they are also working on outer tie rods from what I hear. If we are keeping the stock knuckle we need more caster...i'm at 5.4 caster and would like to be over 10. I know SPL make some caster adjustable arms but have not seen any info about max caster gain from them.

awesome, cant wait to see more. Didnt know about the yaw switch. I havent had problems with electronics yet. Try these rocker switches, they fit right in the factory dummies perfect. Full Size Rocker Switches - 1/4'' Tabs - ON-OFF SPST - WiringProducts

Thanks!

The reason for the Yaw sensor kill was because if you are mid drift and use the brakes to slow down the gas pedal was not responding for me. Now it does every time. I should mention using brakes mid drift to slow down is a good idea but the ABS wants to straighten the car out and it is another reason to remove abs and go with proportioning valve setup. While we are on the topic of the gas pedal, I should also mention the gas input or throttle position map is strange on this car compared to others...feels delayed for the 1st half of the range. A Local tuner said he can reprogram that. Need to look into that someday.

It's not the ABS that wants to straighten out the car mid turn. It's the Stability Control causing the issue by appling a rear brake. I got yelled at by a driving instructor for appling the brakes mid turn. Reveiwed the GoPro later show that I did not applied the brakes. The instructor had to eat his words. But yes, the Yaw sensor is the issue.

Yes true about your condition. But try sliding the car w/ Yaw sensor off and tapping brakes w/ clutch not engaged ... it won't stay sideways its straightening out where normally it wouldn't on a non abs car. Another ABS issue i'm having is if you make a mistake and spin going rear in you can't be hard on the brakes...abs goes mental and brakes actually don't slow you down for a period of time where with non abs you can modulate below 40mph or intentionally lock them. Perhaps its just my ABS system not working to standard? not sure...

Think you got a combintion of things going on at one time. The ABS, Stability Control, and the throttle-brake nanny program. :shakes head:

Only a matter of time before it all goes into the trash.

lmao

Yup the stock mapping and safety features really kill the driving pleasure out of these cars and makes them granny friendly.

April 5th event @ Club Loose was in one word, Amazing!
Many great drivers with everyone being super helpful.

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On a technical note: There is about half inch in space between lower control arm and the front rim at static max lock. During the event due to loads the lower arm showed more wear...I'm not going crazy but I painted over the old spot I had cut. The wheel cut some 5mm more of it out and tire polished it up again...I will try some 20 or 25mm front spacers.IMO the More angle = more fun because you can save yourself.

In the end I was doing entries at about 50-55mph. Just have to learn / build confidence in yourself and the car. Initiating well, reacting in the moment not after the weight shift is key to a fun drift IMO. Cannot wait for the next even!!

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Hey URA, even with your modified tie rod setup, and shaved off bumpstops, are you experiencing more ackerman angle at full lock? Any issues with overcentering the powersteering rack?

I can tell its a lot of ackerman because of the scrub but cannot tell if its more at full lock than half lock and i'm not having any over centering issues.

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Are you running your front tires in opposite rotation/backwards?

I cant tell if you're at full lock in some of your pics. If you are, then it looks like I will definitely need an angle knuckle of some sort. Everyone in SoCal is pushing for reverse entries nowadays, and with my current setup, I cant even get remotely close to that

I have no idea if full lock is in pics.

Yes I'm running the front Anti-directional because it helps grip over dirt/rocks. Just my experience.

If you want more angle then you will def need new voodoo13 kit or custom lower control arms...they are just physically in the way of much more angle.

If you plan to compete maybe this platform is not ideal at this time. What is your current setup?

Im running a custom spindle that I had made in Japan, similar to the T-Demand one (ƒvƒ�ƒA�[ƒ€ “úŽY SKYLINE V36)

Basically, shortened knuckle with a modified tie rod point. My lower control arm is still intact (shortened bump stops), mostly because at my current height and wheel setup the tire would catch on the fender and will jerk the suspension.

I'm actually doing this in a G37 sedan, so suspension points are the same. The major difference between the Z and my sedan would of course be the heavier weight in the rear. This helps in weight transfer, so I can get a long entry and get a decent amount of rotation. And just like you, I'm scrubbing the fronts, dropping speed, and just waiting until the "corner opens" to get back on to it. However, without the extra angle for the next corner switch back, lock-to-lock is too shallow, and I end up losing the drift.

to be honest, I'm pushing the car to drive like a 240SX, so I may be asking too much out of the chassis layout at the moment....