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And that's why I don't like SCCA autocross classing. |
I would be running an 18x12 front 18x13 rear if I were campaigning an ASP 370....
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I would love that but... I would need to save up more because a decent set would have to be custom and that's short for metric *** ton of cash for a 20 day season hobby. I have been searching hard for a quality cheap set but my race car fund is pretty low since I got all the new stuff. As for the toe arm... No comment because this is a STR thread not a scca rule book thread. |
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I don't stand a chance. Looked last night and I think I'm in street modified?? I'll be destroyed.
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Worse...370z isn't legal for SM. You would be in SSM. Welcome to land of 2500lb, fire spitting, 500whp 2/3 rotor turbo RX7's.
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Awe what did I miss that throws me out?
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That's why, IMHO, the way that NASA does classing is better. Each mod equals a certain point value. Add those together and you determine the class you'd be in. |
The current (or anything close to it) NASA points system just does not work for autocross, unfortunately.
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Last year when i ran with SCCA NER there was this 240sx s15 full built ssm car. the car was FTD by a few secs. I gues one of the co drivers won nationals in 2013. I will see if i can find a pic of the car but it was insanly fast and had lots of BOOST!
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The Panda.....and it's an SM car (has rear seats). Dave White won twice in that car. It is retired for Panda V3 that is being built now.
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I think its time to start a new thread on SCCA classing for discussion and gripes/ complaining. I emailed SCCA comp manager on my delema so hopefully i will get an in depth interpretation on the toe arm as i dont want to affend/discredit anyone or myself.
i will make one when i get home from work. |
The SPL buckets and toe arms are absolutely not legal unitl you get to SSM in their OTS form.
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SSM isn't a class for the meek and mild that's for sure, but comparing time between SSM, and ASP, and looking at the resules for the last two events, it's pretty surprising. The ASP cars are very competitive in shorter tighter courses so far this year. We'll see how SSM and ASP match up on the bigger courses where the SSM cars can really stretch their legs. |
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I was only .031 off the top SSM time at the Wilmington National a couple of weeks ago. Some courses they can easily be 1+s faster than me.
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Lesson learned, if you want to auto cross with SCCA and not be SSM then don't get spl get the less quality spc or kinetix camber and toe kits. Also I looked at stance and they are spherical as well. This took me a few hours of reading back and forth and back and forth. I am now even more angry Those rules. There should be a limit on how many mods you can have before going up in a class like a max of two or three. |
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LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL...
One thing i learned while serving in the US submarine service is how to improvise properly! I just got off the phone with an SPL guru and he said that i am not the only one that has called about the strict SCCA rules of having metal bushings. But there is not enough interest about them for SPL to make them available but he said when i find a solution to inform them so they can possibly have it as an option. So there is light on the horrizon for us to use SPL parts on a non-SSM car. So with the list of manufactures he gave me to look into i am now on a mission to get said bushings in poly and legally use them in my SPL arms and not be called a cheater. lol I will report back on my findings all i need is a 5/8 thread helm joint in poly or rubber. The SPC probably will work but i dont trust SPC. |
Replace all of the sphericals with delrin/urethane. Go.
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Can't help but notice the last couple of pages have nothing to do with STR (or the OP's build)...might be best if mod moves them to their own thread.
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I had a good time today. Drove a friends MX5 that is very mildly prepped for STR. It was so easy to drive compared to my car... Driving my 370z on 255 tires is like controlling chaos. The MX5 can carry so much more speed. Very frustrating to say the least. I'm going to work on softening my spring rates this week. I'll more than likely continue this futile effort to build a competitive STR 370z. |
The 370 is much harder to drive on the AX course than people think, though it isn't as obvious until they drive something like an MX5 or a well sorted FWD car (civic, crx etc).
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I got to drive my friends RSX turbo mild prepped and it was an experience to say the lease. Handling was a tad bit better but then I got in my Z and crushed my times just because more torque or something. I run ASP and have mild mods... still trying to sort out my suspension as well. So if I read everything correctly I need to completely remove the rear sway bar??? Is that just for AX driving/Track or can I just leave it out forever. I have stance coils in place now and stock everything else.. have some SPC rear arms that I need to put in and I might replace the stance springs with eibach or something else. SO... Rear sway delete?
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Ive got r888 295 and 265s under mine. It carries great speed through and corners a lot better.... my big question is.... remove the rear sway bar??? Is this safe? Also ok for DD? Thanks.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2 |
The only purpose a sway bar on a car that it used strictly for track is for fine tuning.
If you spring rates are set up correctly you should not even need a sway bar. But no track is the same and conditions change as the day goes on. I have seen many a cars disconnect the rear sway bar because the car felt better and went faster on a particular track and day. The manufacture puts sway bars to improve handling with out sacrificing ride. |
You are not going to find a stiff enough spring to handle a stock 370 in the front
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Go order a 25k 30k springs, you can do it if that's what you want to drive on
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25K spring is about right up front with no bar....I see no issue with it assuming you have good shocks that are valved for it. I run 1000-1200lb front springs with a bar on my car now...
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I just saw a bunch of posts about taking out the rear sway. I dont think I would take the front one out ever. The rear is my question. Im on coils but I think the spring rate is 12 or 14 in the back.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2 |
12k is pretty soft to not run a bar in back. I haven't used a rear sway in 2-3 years...
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So what do you recommend for spring rates and would you recommend no sway in the back. I would lile to put a whiteline up front.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2 |
900/750 as a start...
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As long as you guys are way off track talking about spring rates like you know something (and I don't!). Not trying to hyper-optimize, but give me a general ballpark answer here...
On my 370, I'm currently running JRZ's low-end dampers with some fairly soft springs that were packaged with them at 650 and 500. It doesn't feel as stiff as it could, but with these dampers it's not that bad. I've got Hotchkis swaybars on (the front is among the thickest commercial ones available), with their rear set to full-soft. I've done a lot of experimenting with that rear sway setting over the past year and I know it's still too much rear sway. The only time I've ever had success with the car feeling better with a stiffer rear setting was when I was suffering from a lack of front camber and I was stiffening up the rear sway as a bandaid, trying to force the rear to lose traction as fast as the front to balance out the car and prevent understeer. I'm on RS3 tires currently and the setup works ok, I can drive it. I think what I'd like to do, even on the current tires, is dump the rear swaybar, and then maybe up the rear spring rate to compensate a bit. It could probably use more spring rate all around in general on top of that. Then there's the fact that I'm going to start experimenting with switching from my RS3 to some real slicks a few months down the road, and I've heard you generally up spring rates with that change as well (although on the flipside, I don't want them so hard that I can't get traction in the wet with rain tires either). So... from the 650/500 setup I'm on now, any thoughts on (a) what numbers to move those to now, on the RS3's, while killing the rear sway and gaining some overall springrate, and (b) would your answer be different moving up to slicks (and I guess (c) is it possible to have a spring setup that's good for slicks and wets without swapping springs?). |
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