Last I heard, Peters was running 1000/700 with a small rear bar. Also, the east coast lots tend to be lower grip and bumpier than out west. My car is 2910 or so at battle weight.

I believe he said he is currently at 1050-1100 front and 780 rear. No rear away and he softened his front bar to full soft.

Nice, what's your cross weight percentage?
I own longacre scales, but haven't put the 370Z on them yet. It will be interesting to see what you come up with.
I've had my Nismo on a truck stop scale with a full tank, and my fat a$$ in it right when I first got it. It came up at just under 3200lbs, I'm curious if that scale was off, or if the Nismo weighs less then a regular 370Z.

Lets get Peters to comment on what he's run....

That was probably off. 3361 was my weight with just the car brand new with a full tank. Add me its 3521. The nismo should be heavier with the wing, extra bars etc. cars down to 3083 now fully fueled. Still another 86+ to go in a seat, rotors, flywheel etc. I'd like to know cross weight as well.

That's very doable

Um... How? Please share what you've pulled/ replaced to get there. I've done the math with what I can do legally... I won't get under 3080 with everything done. I was going to get under 3000 until I found out I needed a full tank of gas!

Syno's weight claims are dubious at best. We've pointed this out to him before. /shrug

Okay.... I took a break from work, and threw my car on my scales. No leveling, scales on the ground, cords drapped over the car, complete interior, with spare, almost a full tank of gas, my back pack full of detailing supplies, plus two quarts of oil, and who knows what else (I really need to clean my car out). Here's the raw data I got. :icon14:
http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/t...psdcbe7d25.jpg
http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps33fd7fa8.jpg
Put up or shut up right. lol

Any idea what you got down to before the turbo kit? Or will you just weigh it and subtract 120lbs for a NA setup?

O boy...well everything was pulled in the cabin except my seat, my seat belt, dash, carpet and roof lining. So fully gutted trunk, door plastic, speakers, aluminium bar behind seats, sound deadening, center console, misc wires, I have LTH with a custom CBE with no mufflers (just two Helmholtz resonators in the X pipe and 2 18" inlines in the mid pipe), 18" rpf1's, misc stuff in the engine, 3/4 washer fluid bottle vs the bigger OEM one, 11lbs battery and custom tray, my CAI, rear tow bracket and I'm sure I'm missing a lot.

I've also added weight and I'll be adding more soon. The WL front sway bar is heavier, the oil catch can adds weight, my rear diff cooler I'm making with 24 row, a 48 row oil cooler, crash cage, aero etc.

but weight still needs to come off also. Rotors, racing seat, seat belt, flywheel, maybe pulleys, glass one day...I'm sure Spoon can offer more advice.

Lol ok. Funny I weigh 160, stand on the scale it says 160. Then car goes on and I'm wrong. :tup: paypal me $10 and I'll go weigh right now and take a pic.

O and I don't think you know who you're talking to! I'm the anal weight wennie that weighs everything to the gram!!! From his car, to his bikes, to his bullets! ;)

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psaae94421.jpg


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps0a8ce4ba.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psf7f94fed.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...t/IMG_0938.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps324c63d9.jpg

It's killing me not knowing. But yea that is the plan. My car is now all lexan windows too.

Nice. Seems we're both weight wennies (bicycle term).

Okay thanks synolimit for posting more useless stuff, let get back on subject shall we.

Mike_STR why do you need to run a full tank of gas? I haven't had any issue with full starvation of any kind, but I race autoX at about 3/8th full tank, and haven't gone below 1/4 tank in a event, where I hear you start having issues, what are your thoughts on that, and plans to install the fix for the issue?

Now if I've done the math right, by running at 3/8 of a tank of gas you save 72.117lbs that means 43.270lbs in tank fuel weight. That's going off that we have a 19 gal. tank, fuel weighs in at 6.073lbs per gallon, and a full tank of gas weighs in at 115.387lbs (math isn't my strongest point so please correct me if i'm wrong)

I've lightly gone over the STR rules, and it seems like you can't do to much to bring down the weight unless you want to start cheating. So that 3134lbs you've gotten your car down to seem really pretty impressive.

Thanks for the feedback. I too never ran into the fuel starve issue before this last event. However, I finally had an alignment that allowed me to build the grip that the car had been missing before. No doubt about it, I experienced 2-3 second fuel starve with just under 1/3 a tank and 1 second fuel starve with just over a half a tank.

The 3134 isn't that bad.. But that was with heavy wheels, my super heavy bride seat rails, and I still haven't touched the floating rotors that are available. The Z1 rotors shave 10lbs a corner (front).

The biggest savings by far was the custom 3" single exhaust.

Useless info > ^^^ knows nothing. I'll take useless info. And it wasn't for you anyways. I'll explain myself all I want when someone discredits me so **** off.

:icon18:

I think we have gotten hung up on trying to lighten the cars up, and at least for me, I had a brain fart on an important aspect here. I was talking to my old crew chief last night about my car's weight, and this thread. He reminded me that not all weight isn't bad, it's where you put it that counts. He also went on to remind me about how much lead we put in some of the cars to balance them out, and some times we would throw 150lbs+ of lead bolted to the frame or rollcage depending on the track. That also reminded me that I usually added weight to S-chassis Nissans when I blancing and setting them up. (It's been a few years, I forget stuff)


What are these floating rotors that your talking about, and are you running the Akebono calipers right now?

Do you know how much was the weight saving on the exhaust?

Couldn't help myself. Z1Motorsports.com had a crazy Black Friday Sale... Ordered their Sport Rotors that save 10lbs a rotor (front), the post MAF silicone hoses, K&N Drop-in filters, some random wheel spacers, and the hood prop struts... it continues!

Damn Mike im selling my maf tubes and k&ns. Filters have 5-6 K mi and the post maf tubes have 1500-2k on them. They are z1 and red. If you want them pm me.

Bump, done anything new with the car.

Installing the rotors, new brake pads, and maf tubes next Thursday. Also, making some alignment changes for this year. First event is March 15th. Can't wait.

How do you like the SPC front upper arms? Have you noticed any slippage?

I haven't had the slip problem yet... They're on there bloody tight though. I'll probably work towards welding a bracket on them at some point because knowing my luck... They'll slip in Lincoln.

Nice! I'm building my car now for str as we'll. I didn't want to jump into asp just yet until I have more seat time and more funds to appropriate all the needed mods to be able to compete. My only gripe is the stupid 9in wheel limit and finding the right wheels not custom made is a real pain in the jimmy.

There are actually tons of options. What offset do you desire? I've done tons if research. I'm using tsW nurburgring wheels that weigh 18lbs a price. +35 with a 25mm spacer in the rear. Really not a big deal.

how much does that spacer weigh?

Maybe a pound. It's right in the center... Not a big deal. Got it from Z1 Motorsports.

Someone weighed a bolt on z1 20mm for me and it was 1.7lbs. So more, unless its a non-bolt on.

Have to protect my word haha sorry OP. Before I said 3083 pounds with a full tank. Today I was 3060 with 6 points on the gas gauge and winter rear wheels. Now my winters on a bathroom scale say 54 lbs, my summers say 47.5 lbs. So subtract 13 lbs. Also empty my washer fluid bottle and you get another 5 lbs loss. With only 6 points I can roughly guess I'm missing 62.5% fuel or 11.875 gallons or 72.44 lbs.

So my car weighs 3114 lbs with a full tank now. Why the difference? Installed the diff pump (5 lbs), 24 row cooler with oil (5 lbs?) hoses ect, and solid subframe bushings which are heavier. But I know those don't add up to 31 lbs. Turns out this new scale where I live only reads in 20 lbs increments. So I could be 51 lbs off or I could be 11 lbs off. Not enough to cry over though. Point is I wasn't lying and I'm putting up.

Now the scale when i showed up today wasn't zeroed so it was reading -2860 lbs.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps4932c4b6.jpg

But I stepped on the scale and I weigh 160 lbs which you can see it went to -2700 lbs so it still reads accurate!

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps0a4fea83.jpg

With the car on it reads 200 lbs so it weighed 3060.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps32ea0cbc.jpg

With me on the scale it reads 360 lbs (3060 car, 160 me). Hope that proves my word.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pse70f4058.jpg

Ok... a lot going on since race season hit again in Utah.

New Parts:

GTM 8 quart capacity oil pan...

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...5&disp=safe&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...3&disp=safe&zw

Nice piece. Seemed like a better value than just doing the oil pan spacer modification. There currently isn't an allowance in the ST rule set that lets me install an oil cooler. So, an extra large finned aluminum oil pan seemed like the best way to control oil temps.

Once the car has been running for awhile..., it doesn't really make a difference temperature wise. However, it takes a lot longer for the oil temperatures to get to 220 degrees now. I never saw anything over 220 down in California... which was nice. It looks like oil coolers are on the agenda for 2015 (FINALLY). So, maybe the SCCA will get with the times. Until then, this is a good solution.

I got the car tuned @ Specialty Z in Chatsworth, CA. Sebastian is a great guy. Great customer service and a quality experience.

Current Power Modifications:
3" Custom Single Exhaust
Berk High Flow Cats
Z1 Intake Silicone Intake Pipes
K&N Drop-in Filters.

Here's the Dyno in 4th Gear:
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...&sz=w1168-h552

Here's the 5th Gear, Money Pull, 1:1...
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui...&sz=w1168-h552

El Toro Pro Solo Results...

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/...lToroFinal.pdf

Yes, I finished 15 out of 18 competitors. Now I just have to find out why...

WHY?!

Simple really... I could always drive better. That's a given.

Secondly, the car had gobs of power that I couldn't use. What a hand full! I really was on the wrong tires as well. I had switched this spring to the BFG Rivals (245/40/18) because no one seems to make a 255/40... except, of course, for the Yokohama ADO8R.

Why switch to the 245/40? Gearing. The car has tons of power. The 255/35 Hankook RS3's that I had been using previously were like rubber bands. As a result the gearing was limited in 2nd gear. With the 255/35 and a 7500 rpm redline, the top speed in 2nd gear was about 62mph. With the 245/40 its about 64ish.

The extra speed in 2nd gear wasn't worth the less tire. I should have known that. However, you'll learn through reading this thread that I make a lot of dumb decisions which ultimately lead to me loosing my *** at every event I attend.

Next tire, if I stay in STR, will be the ADO8R in 255/40/18. Best of both worlds... just $350 more a set... *sigh*

I also think my spring rates are too high. The gentleman driving the ultra fast BSP 350z pointed this out earlier... in this actual thread. Why don't I listen to people? ;) The car really didn't seem to have enough lateral grip. Obviously tires are an issue.. but I think a slightly softer spring front/rear will help with the grip and ultimately putting power down "better".

Luckily, I already have sets of 12k, 14k, 16k, and 18k springs. I currently have 18k on the front and 14k on the rear. I'm going to try 16k front and 12k rear.

Honestly, I've just about given up on STR. I synced one of my left side videos with a left side video that Brian Peters, the living legend, posted on facebook.

Now, this isn't scientific... but based off the sync, he put about half a second on me just in the launch shoot. Then, about another 2/10ths exiting the first pinch, about a half a second exiting the large sweeper, and by the time we reach the last element... about another second. The lines driven look to be the same. The biggest difference is the power delivery. Every where I need to put down power he's putting time on me.

My Sunday Runs:
El Toro 2014 Sunday Runs - YouTube

Peters Video...


This course was a very "flowy" course. The no power wonder MX5's never even had to lift... Neither did STX for that matter. I don't think Max Hayter hit the brakes in his BRZ more than once on course. Once those cars get moving... they're so damn good at speed maintenance.

So..., I decided to buy a set of 18x11" wheels and do some NASA events locally. I still plan on doing some local autoX events in STR. However, until I can literally kill the local competition, it's not worth spending all that money to go get pounded at a National level.

MIKE_STR, looks good. Has there any noticeable difference running that GTM oil pan?
Yea if you move out of STR I can't wait to see what your end up doing next. Good Luck




Try putting it on a real set of scales, and post pics to protect your word. Those scales can be off a hundred plus or minus or even more some times and who knows when they were last calibrated.

:eekdance: :ugh2: You're playing with fire sir :icon17:!!! Still no fuel starvation? EVERY single guy I ran into autox events, they all said the same thing,"yeah gotta keep the tank full or else fuel starvation." I haven't hit fuel starvation yet but I ALWAYS run full tank. My longer autox event drive (2 hours from my house), I stop 20 mile before autox venue and fill up.

Actually, I need to keep a track of how many events you do with 3/8th full tank until you hit the fuel starvation. Just for the sake of gather data. What year Z btw? Any video of your Z running at the event?


MIke STR: How do you cope with tire pressure increase? You simple check before event and run all day? I run 37F, 38R and sometimes I find myself running at 45-46 psi hot! Do you go out and check pressure/adjust before each run?

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...psafffc597.jpg

Now that's close! lol :tup: :tup: :tup: How you didn't knock that cone over as your hands are still turning, is a mystery! lol

BTW, your video has that black surround can be taken out with 3 second option change. Are you using Window Movie Maker to finalize video?

I run the BSP car on dead nuts empty (light on, etc)...

[\QUOTE]
So..., I decided to buy a set of 18x11" wheels and do some NASA events locally. I still plan on doing some local autoX events in STR. However, until I can literally kill the local competition, it's not worth spending all that money to go get pounded at a National level.[/QUOTE]

Mike you going to run next weekends HPDE at Miller?

Really? What part did you miss about me standing on the scale with and without the car? Both times it was a 160lbs difference which is what I weigh. So you're wrong about it being off.

I have an 2009 Nismo, and you can find all my last year autoX runs at https://www.youtube.com/user/Apollo240sx In the SSCC autoX videos I don't think I ever ran less then a half tank on their track. I figure the sweeper might do the trick, but still have never had a problem there regarding fuel.

Just to be clear my car has been fuel starved on the track, but never auto crossing. For the Oregon SCCA Solo we usually only get five runs, and they are pretty small, usually always sub one minute. As for the national events up at Packwood Wa they are one minute and up. I've never burn threw a huge amount of fuel where I've been worried.

There are now two other 370Z's running in the scca autox group with me, so I'll have to ask them what they are doing.

LOL! Yes. Windows movie maker... I'm cheap.

Mike you going to run next weekends HPDE at Miller?[/QUOTE]

I'm planning on it. Just tooling around for now. I still have a lot of work to do to the car. I'm going to post some pics soon of the 18x11" wheels.

This might turn into an ASP/ NASA build thread... lol.

Yeah. I have a friend that will check my pressure while I'm in line. Front pressure builds so much faster than back.. but that's where all the weight is.

The car seemed to do the best with 37 front / 35 rear psi.