Brother look, I'll live and learn, but I won't be taking opinion to convince me and ill state what I want to state if I see data over opinion that doesn't make sense and question it every time and then some if I'm not satisfied or convinced.

I understand that. Even plugged the numbers in myself so yes I see long bar vs long bar there is a difference. But if metals are not the exact same and mounting points are not in the same location (WL is adjustable, hotchkis is not) then we don't have a winner. we still need to see torsion testing on the actually bar and not just a round piece of tube numbers. That's why I like the chart, just not 100% and why I still like data vs opinion.

I don't think isolated testing like torsion tests are going to be as valuable as telemetry and lap times. Simplest question to ask yourself is...did it make me go faster? Can't really do that safely and consistently anywhere else other than at the track.

When you test it on the track you test the entire solution, driver, car and the part that has been changed.

Syno, there is a place called Mid Ohio, go. It will answer all your questions. :tup:

True, I agree. But if a part was truly better/bigger/stronger/stiffer than a driver should be able to get into a car without knowing what was changed and go faster. If not then what was the point of spending the money? If these cars love big front bars then a torsion test would be valuable data for people to plainly see "I need that one."

Seems everyone likes the hotchkins here while a thread in 12 everyone was hating on it. Stating WL and stillen did testing while Hotchkins just slapped it on a car and flicked the wheel back and forth to show youtubers its stiffer. Chrisslicks even stated its poor R&D and a lot of tuning had to go into his settings to make up for it. To each their own.

Will do, raced there many times. But please lay off the lease and track experience comments with this car!

Who the **** here had a Z gutted, track prepping, custom brake duct lines, cut a OEM hood up, LTH, custom CBE, custom diff cooler etc etc, all within the first 5 months of ownership??! I bet almost 100% of you didn't! Rome wasn't built in a ******* day and my track car won't be either so relax.

And yeah it's leased. $400 a month now and after I buy it unless they drop my residual since the 14 residuals will be a couple grand cheaper around the same turn in time. Better than $657 a month limiting me on buying parts monthly. Yeah in the end of payments ill end up spending about 2k more but 2k over all that time is nothing when I'm saving $257 a month in the now.

Just my 2 cents,
If you track the car sways bars should be adjustable, bottom line.
The sway bar is a fine tuning device, everyone's car is set up differently in the respect that not everyone runs the same springs rates, shocks, ride height, alignment and weight jack. Tire compound, and even track temp has a play in all this too. Not to mention driver preference And or A$$ feel when driving

In answering Clintfocus's question I believe he went with a special sway bar up front. It was possibly a Whiteline but he had spec'd out a different one that was the thickest and stiffest one possible.

It was pretty much an identical install as the one seen in Motoiq but with a few more tweaks.

At the end of the day, it works for me. I try and surround myself with good installers and people that know there stuff. I am happy with my setup and its what I could afford.

Its like evrything off the internet . Do your research and try and make a good honest decision. Just because you read it doesnt mean its the truth. Call people up, talk to them, get a good feel for them.

Ive tracked the car about 6 times since the install. I couldn't be anymore happy with the setup.

I run stock sizes for now, but want to go wider both front and rear on my next set.

Sorry, but this thread is all about track experience. Hence the title of this thread. I want to know what bars people are running on the tracks, autoX, and what's working in the real world. I'm not really interested in someone's idea of what to run, or what they run in the mountains or the street.

You don't have to have a full custom gutted car to get on the track or race. My Nismo has a ton of track days on her, and all done in stock trim (plus big oil cooler) in her first 7500 miles of her life. So man up, head to the track, and get an education out there. You'll find people will start to give you less cr@p when your out there actually doing something more then playing forum racer.

For my reason behind my question why do I think I need sway bars. I'm looking for the car to stay flatter in the corners, and to push less in the front. For the time being I'm running V710's 275/40 in the front and 295/40 in the rear.
I've been eyeing bars for a long while now, but wanted to wait till my race season was over and start fresh when a new setup next year in a new class. I ran street tires (Nitto Invo's 265/30 and 305/30) in a race tire class till the last couple races when I got my hands on the V710's to finish out the season. I came in 4th over all, and missed 3rd place by one point in championship, under a Sti, and two corvettes.
It seems like every bar that is out there is different, and everyone seems to be running something a little different. With help from a few of you on here, and your inputs, it gives me a good base where to start. I might need to buy a couple sets of bars, but the truth of what works for me will be found out on the skid pad.

Here is a fun stock trim track pic of my Nismo.
http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps641210af.jpg
This is of course a picture of a picture. I don't have any digital copies of the original, and I wasn't driving the car in this pic.

Wow that's a lot of air

It was coming off on all fours but it was hard to capture that with the camera, and that was the best picture out of the bunch

99.999% agree with Clintfocus, and whoever doesn't believe all his testing u should :gtfo2: ROFL

BTW the Motoiq 370 is my car :icon17:
but my sway bar setup has since changed since the articles suspension install, like i said earlier in the thread im on the Hotchkis front bar, and a G37S coupe OE rear bar which is 2mm's thicker then the OE 370 bar but same wall thickness, so really just a touch stiffer then stock. Also im on the off the shelf KW V3 spring rates and valving. this setup thus far compliments the square 285/10.5 sizes and the V3s spring rates well

Would the Hotchkiss rear on full soft be comparable to OE G bar Clint or way different? Reason I ask is because don't you have to buy the front and rear Hotchkiss at the same time?

From the advice that I have given in this section, I am running a whiteline set to full stiff up front but still have the stock rear. I am running 275 front and 295 rear and run in ASP for SCCCA. I am still getting the feel for it on autox but on the track I love it. Drove a friends stock sport for a few laps on Sunday and it was a night a day difference compared to my car. I still push a bit during Autox but I am staggered so I am not surprised. A little power and it clears it right up.

yeah the bars can only be bought in a bar, but i tried the Hotchkis rear bar even on full soft and it was still WAY too stiff, i got lucky that a friend of mine who does nothing but DD his G37S coupe to work let me swap the hotchkis for his OE rear bar cause he will never even notice the difference. I feel anything short of a custom race bar the Hotchkis front fits the 370 best with a square wheel/tire setup. I tried the stock 370 rear bar with the hotchkis front as well, and the rear was just a bit too sloppy in transition, hence the mild bump up with the G37 bar. Ideally though, when i get around to doing a damper revalve, ill pick spring rates to be able to run no rear bar like Matcop

Never told you to get a WL and I told you what others have done in autox. I simply stated I don't think I felt a damn thing from just the WL install, read my first post. My next posts were only questioning what someone said and what I thought about 1 other bar out there and we made our peace.

And thanks, didn't know what I needed to do for a track day. Unlike you though I have enough intelligence before I get on the track to read other peoples issues with this particular car and correct them before hand. Hence the suspension upgrades, tires, oil cooler, diff cooler, racing seat, roll cage, brake duct cooling lines etc etc. I have plenty of track time, probably more than you. I'm not getting on a track where I know my skill will out do the car. I'm not driving with over heated brakes, cooking my diff or engine oil, not rolling the car if pushed to hard and getting flopped around in the car in a OEM seat and seatbelt. So before you tell me how to get on a track and man up realize I've probably raced longer and more than you. And since I can see you made some bad choices by only installing a oil cooler and running horrible tire sizes twice! Trust me, I won't be taking your advice about track days.

In reference to Clintfocus, the motoiq car i was referencing was the blue Robispec (pizzaman) car with the orange rims. I am aware that your car is used for motoiq , i just didn't want you to think that I was referencing yours.

Gotcha, no worries :)

:icon18: This guy really make his own life difficult doesn't he.

You get on here arguing semantics with people that clearly know more about this topic. I specially think this is really funny sense you write on your first post "I haven't been on a track yet but "canyon" running (in ohio we have crazy hills) the car felt ok with 255/285 tires, stock alignment (which in the rules of alignment are horrible) and a Whiteline front bar set to full stiff." then claim to have a track experience, on top of that then try to bash me for my setup. So you're either a pathetic liar, cause you seem to be contradicting yourself a lot, or your just another internet forum idiot, that spends more time on the forums then driving his uumm.. leased car, or both.

You also said "I have plenty of track time, probably more than you." "I'm not getting on a track where I know my skill will out do the car." "I've probably raced longer and more than you" It's funny you say that cause you have no idea who I am, or my history in motorsport, and for you to make that assumption really shows that anthing you say has no real validity here. The more you talk the less people respect you, and what you have to say about any matter on this forum. Furthermore I would think someone that is as talented as a driver as you want people to think you are, could grasp the idea of what makes a good driver. That skill is not based on the performance level of the vehicle, but on the drivers skill level to be able to control that vehicle, and make it perform to the best of it's abilities. This is one of the most obnoxious thing I've heard you said so far "I'm not getting on a track where I know my skill will out do the car." This shows everyone how much full of sh1t you really are.

So some history on my Nismo. The first owner bought the car in 2009, he had an oil cooler put on it, and started racing from day one. The first time I drove the car was on a track. The only things that have happen to this car when it was in it's stock form and racing, was fuel starvation issues (still is an issue), I have boiled the clutch fuild once, and I have of course over heated brakes but who hasn't, but luckily never any glazing, or anything serious no real issue there. I've never had any of the other problems you listed. Never cooked my diff or engine oil, never rolled the car, and the Nismo seats are good enough for HPDE's or club track days, and if the car was in full race trim it would be a whole nother matter.

Unlike you, I race my car. I don't read every little issue someone has, or trying to figure out the best setup of what my car needs. I'm out there figuring things out on my own for the most part, and I do all the work on my car. I could have easliy dropped $1000 on bars, and more renting out a skid pad for testing for a day. Thankfully on this forum I'm lucky to find like minded individuals that have real experience, that are willing to help out, and share their knowledge, and that saves me time, and money in this area.
You're getting into an argument about book intelligence over hands on experience with your comment "I have enough intelligence before I get on the track to read other peoples issues with this particular car and correct them before hand." I think it's more intelligent, and better in the long run to be able to run a car, figure out what it's lacking, and what changes it needs, then read it some place. I'll listen to any person's word that has the proven experience, then someone that read it in a book or website. Top with, I'm experiecing it all myself, and I have something to base what someone is saying, instead of taking it for face value, and maybe not understand what's going on fully.

Good day to you sir I said good day :tiphat:

So what have we gathered from all this.... LOL. Basically Synolimit feels that i dont know ****, and is too good of a driver for his 370. Then Apollo8642 feels Synolimit doesnt know ****, and is the only one man enough to jump his 370.

:D

I'm guessing that Syno is secretly Bobby Rahal. We all just got trolled by the master.

LOL you forgot to add me, I don't know **** either (I dont want to feel left out), and all this just cause I just wanted to know what bars were working for people sheesh :rolleyes:

Yup...I told you from the beginning there are lots of opinions. Listen to the guys in the know, like Clint and BJ. I'm just sayin....

There are a few people on here that I listen to their opinions. The track rats. :tup: They have spent the money and did the driving and have the experience trying to improve. Others have good ideas that can be used. Still others, I don't know........................they have good points now and then.

LMAO what a laugh reading this thread, I just wanted some opinions on setup, five pages later and...

Researching sway bars, came across this jewel. This helped me solidify my sway decision (hotch) and man up and get into an AutoX!

Just a heads up for people looking for just the hotchkis front bar. I bought the hotchkis and installed it today. Hotchkis sells the front by itself on their website, look for the bar 22441F, this is the front bar:

HOTCHKIS SPORT SUSPENSION SYSTEMS, PARTS, AND COMPLETE BOLT-IN PACKAGES » Blog Archive 2008+ NISSAN 370Z G37 G37S G35 SPORT FRONT SWAY BAR - HOTCHKIS SPORT SUSPENSION SYSTEMS, PARTS, AND COMPLETE BOLT-IN PACKAGES

Amazon Both Bars:

Amazon.com: Hotchkis 22441 Sport Sway Bar Set for Nissan 370Z, G37, G37S and G35 08+: Automotive

I bought both front and rear on amazon for $362. Front one by itself on the hotchkis website is $265. Sell the rear on eBay for $200 and your front bar price will be $162.

I wish I knew they sold it separately when I bought mine. Hotchkis is the way to go.

You sir are a miracle man.

Currently I'm running eibach front and rear bar with the front on stiff and rear on its softest setting. KW v3 coilovers and 275F 305R nitto NT01 tires. Would it be worth considering switching to hotchkis front and stock rear bar? Or would the difference be negligible at this point? I autocross the car frequently, do a HPDE or two a year, and daily drive it.

Sigh...why don't I ever see these fun posts until it's page 5. So much crap coming out of someone's mouth it's ridiculous. Why do I wish I was just a bit closer to Ohio???

Tracy Ramsey

two posts later...

was pretty epic. 5* thread.

thank you for the info !:tup:

I need to buy another front one because mine kept grinding on the road due a previous weak coilover setup (KW3)

Many people here have helped me. I'm trying to do the same.

Yea man, the only way I knew they sold the front bar by itself was by calling them and asking. When I checked online the front bar by itself it was nowhere to be found.