Originally Posted by Robert Yuras (Post 3141849)

Anthony:

Funny you mention the fuel level reader. One of my pieces of foam moved and interfered with my drivers side level indicator, which messed up the law of averages and left me on the side of the highway last night at 3 am. WTG.

On a positive note - I fixed it in about 12 minutes today and got a bit of a workout in last night while walking.

The foam does not seem to have any effect on filling. I've put two tanks in without issue.

I will continue to have to experiment with this. and find the right angles and placement. I'm 75% sure I'll be opening up this gas tank 133 more times. I do agree with Phunk, that it will probably not solve the issue for the last remaining bit of fuel, BUT it is working. The current setup I have will NOT allow fuel to flow to one side of the tank or the other at a rapid rate, so slalom or chicane style turns will become safer. I have yet to test it out on a 95 mph sweeper - and probably wont until I can get somewhere SAFE and way off the beaten path of traffic. I do have a track event come May, so if I don't test the sweeper by then, I'll test it in May. I plan on making foam and tool with me to the track to preform more testing.

I did create a mockup of our tank and installed some foam just to watch how it worked. Pretty cool stuff. One side of the tank can be completely turbulent and the other is hardly wavy. This is positive improvement. I think if your sweeping turn is less than 3 seconds long, the foam may work out well.

To be continued...

Originally Posted by vestitozed (Post 3249244)

I want one! Put me down for pre order please!

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 3250175)

"official" update post:

1: Current quote on ETA of the canister parts returning from anodizing is Friday 7/10 or Monday 7/13. While that isn't a guaranteed time frame, it means it is highly probably that everything will be back in my hands next week.

2: I have re-added the RRP item to the new website: Here

3: Anyone on the pre-sale list is welcome to complete their transaction. I will hold/reserve pre-sale units for up to 30 days from when the first one ships.

4: So far at least one member has left the pre-sale, leaving a unit available. I cant even count how many people have asked me to let them know if one became available via PM, email, or phone.

Unfortunately this makes it a little messy. For this unit and any others that become available: Anyone who has asked and still wants one, find the PM or email that you inquired and post a date so that I can verify and create a proper line. I have over 2300 stored PMs here and I will never be able to sort it out myself.

We may or may not end up with a handful of these available. If there is a long enough line, I suppose that would mean its time to go ahead and start another run of them.

Originally Posted by vestitozed (Post 3250418)

Hi Charles i emailed you about this and i can see you have a cancelled now. Can i take that spot pretty please?

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 3250175)

"official" update post:

4: So far at least one member has left the pre-sale, leaving a unit available. I cant even count how many people have asked me to let them know if one became available via PM, email, or phone.

Unfortunately this makes it a little messy. For this unit and any others that become available: Anyone who has asked and still wants one, find the PM or email that you inquired and post a date so that I can verify and create a proper line. I have over 2300 stored PMs here and I will never be able to sort it out myself.

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 3250175)

"official" update post:

1: Current quote on ETA of the canister parts returning from anodizing is Friday 7/10 or Monday 7/13. While that isn't a guaranteed time frame, it means it is highly probably that everything will be back in my hands next week.

2: I have re-added the RRP item to the new website: Here

3: Anyone on the pre-sale list is welcome to complete their transaction. I will hold/reserve pre-sale units for up to 30 days from when the first one ships.

4: So far at least one member has left the pre-sale, leaving a unit available. I cant even count how many people have asked me to let them know if one became available via PM, email, or phone.

Unfortunately this makes it a little messy. For this unit and any others that become available: Anyone who has asked and still wants one, find the PM or email that you inquired and post a date so that I can verify and create a proper line. I have over 2300 stored PMs here and I will never be able to sort it out myself.

We may or may not end up with a handful of these available. If there is a long enough line, I suppose that would mean its time to go ahead and start another run of them.

Originally Posted by AnthonyD1978 (Post 3250600)

Phunk,

Just got done reading the install instructions again (and again). Few questions:

When doing some of the wiring it says to use a volt meter to verify some of the connections when re-wiring the connectors. If you prep enough (take a pic of connector, etc) and just make sure you keep the same OEM pin locations can you get away with not having to use the volt meter? Maybe I'm over simplifying it.

Also similar with checking the Ohms on the level sensor. As long as the level arm can swing freely and you installed correctly why would you need Ohms recorded?

Why do you have to measure the depth of the level sensor (taping it to the ruler)? Is this just to make sure you bent the baffle enough?

Sorry, just trying to get all my ducks in a row.

Originally Posted by vestitozed (Post 3250418)

Hi Charles i emailed you about this and i can see you have a cancelled now. Can i take that spot pretty please?

Originally Posted by boosted180 (Post 3250636)

I PM'd you and also called and left a message about the canceled spot and wanted to take that spot and leave a deposit today if possible. Please let me know. Thanks.

Brian

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 3250670)

The only purpose for using the volt meter when checking the connector is because the pin locations dont match up intuitively on the outside connector. However, if you dont have a voltmeter, I can just send you a chart that demonstrates which inside pin leads to which outside pin. Or perhaps I can just add that to an installation guide update.

Otherwise the ohms part is just to make sure the sensor is getting full sweep and that also goes for the part with taping it to the ruler. If you are sure you bent the baffle completely out of the way, its not necessary to do any of that. I just have it in there to demonstrate a method to double checking before final installation. But access to that side of the tank isnt the difficult part anyway, so if you had to go back in that side its not the end of the world, you just have to wait until the tank is somewhat empty to go back in.

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 2462060)

Our RR pump is completely compatible with a return fuel system! I will probably announce a special price for our return fuel systems to include as a package with the RR pump. I am finishing up some latest updates to them right now and will show them off soon.