Its interesting.. but they need to explain better how this system avoids the fuel starvation that the 370z has. I am failing to see how fuel is getting inside the rubber baffle/cup that surrounds everything.

Aside from the obvious fabrication on the gas tank (which would probably exceed the difficulty rating of installing our v1 RRP), there are some things it does not address for the 370z specifically.

Really the only place to put this in the 370z tank that makes sense is in place of the stock fuel pump module. I could possibly even machine an adapter plate for it if what they have here fits through the opening. But we would still be missing the fuel level float, and attaching it to foam would probably be flimsy... so we would have to see if we could somehow attach the level sensor to one of the crappy baffles in the tank... which I think is possible. Still left to resolve is the in-tank siphon issue.. but I know how to solve this on the EASY.

If we can get a solid confirmation that this product would in-fact tackle the starvation issue to the satisfaction of you guys (the drivers who want it fixed), AND if this would fit through the fuel tank opening of the 370z (just over 4.25"), I would be happy to provide it and an installation kit for it.

But if it doesnt fit through the opening, I would have to just wish good luck, as I cannot sell it with fabrication required. Very few of you guys would be willing to remove the gas tank from the car (most dont realize that removing the entire rear suspension member is required for this), much less chop it up in an irreversible manor.

I want to know if this system is just fuel starvation "resistant", or truly defeats it. Based on customer reports, our V1 RRP defeated it entirely. So I have a pretty high standard to meet in how I continue to address it.

Phunk,

Thank you for your time.

The hole that is drilled into the tank is 3 1/4" to get this piece to fit.


Here are the install instructions:
http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/...8809-0revE.pdf

EDIT: Here is an overview of how it works. Not too detailed though.
http://aeromotiveinc.com/phantom/

Here is a video of the system working.

Interesting enough... but we still need details on how it really works. I havent seen any information on how fuel is getting inside of the rubber canister/baffle. If it cant get in there easily, its not going to perform very well in real world scenarios. By tilting the tank a few degrees by hand does not really simulate a car flying around a road course. They have shown it to offer a moment of surge protection but that moment could end really quickly for someone exiting a sweeping turn at full throttle.

Also consider that this system is going to require a full return system and external filter added underneath the car... so you are up another $650+ by the time its running if this were the chosen route.

Phunk = Dream destroyer lol :inoutroflpuke:

Another stupid question from me.Attachment 100868
That's the breaker right? Meaning that if the current going to the pump ever goes over 30a it'll cut the line, right?

Hello guys,

I had a few hours to work on the Z and finally managed to finish the work that needed to be fine in the tank. I had so many tools failing on me during this install it's hard to believe...

Anyway, I'm on the electrical part now. I thought about using this already existent ground point but I wonder if the provided yellow cable will be long enough to go fourth to the pump and back to this ground point.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...5040c656e6.jpg
Any suggestion? Did someone used that point?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...656f0e4605.jpg
Rusty, could you show me on this picture where you put yours?

Thanks in advance everyone!

You can actually ground it anywhere to any sheet metal on the chassis that is within reach of the wire. You dont technically have to use an existing ground point.

I know that, but I'm thinking that if I could prevent from drilling a new hole...

Yes you can use an existing bolt hole anywhere on the car really, extend the wire if it does not reach where you wish to go!

Phunk,

What about running two OEM pumps? The second one using the OEM location on the other side that right hand drive cars use. Have a switch that turns on the secondary pump during track days. Can you just "T" into the existing fuel line? Would this totally screw with the fuel pressure?

People have been asking me that for years with the 350z!

RHD and LHD cars all have the fuel pump on the same side. The other flange on the other side of the tank is for the secondary level sensor.

You COULD mount a second fuel pump module in there if you wanted. Its not a very reliable system. Fuel pumps will die rather quickly when run dry. As the fuel level gets lower and lower, one or the other pump is going to be starving more and more. I would expect to kill a fuel pump before the end of the day. But up until that happening, you probably wont have much issue with fuel starvation until 1/4 tank or so.

Makes sense thank you for the input as always. It might be a back plan until I see your v2. I still have a few months before my car will be ready for the track though.

Worse case I'm going to swap the OEM pump to the other side since most of the tracks in socal run CW. :rofl2:

Well, I'll throw it out there:

I ordered me some fuel cell foam - spend 1 hr working on placing it where I think its needed most and got everything back together.

It may not work - if it doesn't, I'm out $14 and a bloody knuckle. Now its time to head to the track.

Nice! Let us know how it works out.

It must at least contribute some. Anything that reduces sloshes by any amount is going to reduce the occurrence even if it doesnt solve it. Nothing is going to work 100% without multiple pickups or secondary containment & buffer volume (such as our RRP). But I bet just screwing around in the tank some here and there, there is probably quite a bit of improvement at the very least that could be accomplished.