Rode hard, put up wet...and hot
 

So, recs on the best oil cooler for track racing. 2013 Z...

... Search feature... I know you're new, but search feature

AE 72 row
Regular 34 row
Custom like Sh0velman

Most people are running Setrab oil coolers and multiple company make kits for them.. I was going to go with Z1 however Fast Intentions set up my 25 row Setrab and may possibly be having a kit coming out in the near future.

I was going to say it but I resisted.. lol also is the 12+ factory cooler really that worthless?

DEpoint0... Nice! and yes I AM NEW....a GIRL and don't know **** about SOME things... just like to race and friends with memberships to tracks. Not pretending to be anything else. No need to be a D**k. Just don't answer the thread if you don't like the question! TB1...good thing you resisted :) (.)(.)

Lol, I know you're a girl, lol. And I DID put positive input to point you in the right direction! Lol

I'm not trying to be a díck, lol

But damn our search feature/google with "the370z" is awesome!

DE...Ok, the b**ch is cooled off now. That's a lot of LOL's you got there! Will check out the searches and make my decision. Was thinking setrab 25 row. Why did you make the suggestions you did?

Law of the Internet, add a "LOL" or "JK" to imply sarcasm or to show you're not a prick, lol

If you track like a SOB 34 will be better, just make sure you get a thermostatic plate of you intend on driving it on the street!

And the 72 row AE performance has amazing cooling power and it looks bitchin, but it ain't cheap

Now, Sh0velman's holy crap, it's the size of the radiator, so probably THE best for cooling, but lets not ask how much it cost, lol

I use lol alot but I'm still a prick, lol

lol

Pricks... Lol

Ha! Laters boys. Got a date with another ****/prick tonight. Why we girls like em, I have NO idea! He better not drive like a grandma!

I have an AE performance 72 row oil cooler. Waaaaay overkill. But I'm pretty sure I can track this thing in 110F heat and it wouldn't overheat.

I have the NISMO 34 row cooler and it works great in the Georgia environment. I do use a block off plate in the couple months of winter though. Blocks about 3/4 of the cooler, and I run around 200 once it warms up.

I am extremely happy with the Z1 race cooler, and its a good value for the money, however, when my car was dual use, I used a home built 25 row and it worked fine also ( until a hose separated and made me spin into a tire wall, but thats a whole nother story), but temps did get in the 260-270 range occassionally.

Z1 34 row cooler with the thermostatic plate. AAM oil pan spacer too. No issues so far. ;)

Z1 kit, 25-row Setrab cooler, no thermo plate. It works like a charm. Had my first track day in it and rode it hard at Zdayz last year. Temps never spiked on me once.

I have a block-off plate for winter months. It takes a while, but it'll get up to temps just fine that way.

How long is "a while"?

If you want, I can hook you up with the Stillen style... Exactly the same thermostatic plate Stillen uses with their kit for $30-40


Personally I have a 25 row with a Setrab that I pieced together and I'm using compression fittings and oversize hoses (not the SS braided, personally I don't see ANY NEED [compression takes 300+PSI] and no fear that the rubber lines will rub the crap out of anything)



If you want a pieced together kit, shoot me a PM with what specs you want (you can go braided lines, I just think it's a waste of money) and I can piece one together for you at cost

That's an odd question, because it depends on the ambient temperature. If it's 60 degrees or above, gets up to temp with or without a blockoff plate with no issue. If it dips below that, then without the plate it may not get up to temp for a while or at all. With the block plate, it takes about 20 minutes if you drive it cold, maybe more or less if it's 0 degrees or 50. Then if it's wet, it may take longer. If you warm the car up while parked, it'd take just as long as normal, and the temp won't dip afterward.

The block-off plate is extremely easy to make. Just cut a metal plate with the dimensions of the front of the cooler, and use some industrial velcro to slap it on there.

Also depends on where you're going. Residential areas with stops? Warms faster than highway.

I had compression fittings on my first oil cooler. They didn't hold and the hose separated, spraying oil on my front left brake whilst going into a braking zone at 120mph, and this is what happened:
http://imageshack.us/a/img521/167/crash3.jpg

Of course, had it not happened, my car would still be a street car probably.

^If they are assembled correctly, you should be 100% fine. SS lines are great for 1500PSI, hell, the Setrab can only take 150psi if I'm not mistaken, so the weak point isn't the materials.
I've had mine on for 15k with aggressive driving and no complaints or leaks at all

I had 3000 track miles on them at that point and had just inspected them two days before hand, it wasn't improper installation.

Damn... Fair enough, I'd feel comfortable tracking my car the way it sits now

Did the hose just pop off the fitting?
And did you have a hose clamp on it?

EDIT: I wish I had 3000 track miles, lol

I have about 15000 track miles on this car! It was not clamped on, wasn't supposed to need to be. It just popped off and it was very securely on.

Mmmmmmm... 15k track miles, that's TOTAL what I've put on my car, LOL

Holy crap, tells you how high the oil pressure got to top the lines off!

And yes, the hose clamps aren't technically required, but I did it as extra security. I've also been warned that when you DO use the SS lines that it's pretty easy to screw up the fittings, or it's more a science to putting the hoses on the fittings. That's why I personally went with it and the other things I stated.


But that's neither here nor there!
OP, good luck finding your oil cooler!

just keep in mind that the radiator is undersized for our cars. At least in my case, once i got the oil cooling under control and was able to get more laps on track, the water started getting warm. I have the Nismo 34 row cooler with custom shrouding, and the CSF radiator upgrade

I'm upgrading from the 25 row Tru-Cool which just wasn't enough for hard track driving in Texas. I decided to go with the Setrab Series 9, 25 row (310mm wide) instead of the Series 6, 34 row (255mm wide) that most people use. They are both rated the same BTU but I think the wider 25 row fits the opening in the Z better and will get better flow. GTM is using the Series 9 25 row in their kit but they use -8AN lines while I use bigger -10AN.

DE...I think Fast Turtle got the last of the AE 72 row ones.

So AE doesn't sell them anymore... I guess I'll consider myself lucky.

The narrow 1 series Setrab 72 row is rated slightly less BTU than the Series 6 34 row and the 25 row series 9 wide.

Setrab 72 Row Series 1 Oil Cooler (SET 50-172-7612)

Dimensions: 8.25" Overall Length X 22.50" Height X 2" Thick.
Tested to maximum operating pressure of 150 psi.
Ideal for front valence mounting.
Internal turbulators maximize heat transfer while minimizing pressure drop.Fully brazed plates provide ultimate durability and performance.
AN adapter fittings included - please specify size when ordering.
Rated at 600+hp and 40,000-60,000 BTU/HR
Price: $670


Setrab 34 Row 6 series 50-634-7612

Dimensions: 13" Overall Length X 10.25" Height X 2" Thick.
Tested to maximum operating pressure of 150 psi.
Internal turbulators maximize heat transfer while minimizing pressure drop.
Fully brazed plates provide ultimate durability and performance.
AN adapter fittings included - please specify size when ordering.
Rated at 400-475hp and 43,000-59,000 BTU/HR
Price: $358

The 72 row is definitely the superior cooler. Larger surface area, same depth, higher total BTU rating, and higher supported hp, all based off Setrab's site. The fact that it costs nearly double would make me question why they priced it so much higher if it were not superior. Now the need for a 72, even a 34 row is questionable and both no doubt awesome, I just wanted to clarify this.

The lower BTU rating is what is applicable to wet sump cars like ours. I think the 72 fits the front bumper opening pretty well so it is a good choice for our car but I don't think it will cool any better than the wide 25 row.

I would agree with 90% of the statement. I think the differences will show as speed increases. Especially the larger surface area. Hot engine oil spends more time in the oil cooler before being recycled back. The 25 row is rated at 33,000 on the low end as opposed to 40k on the 72. The 34 row would be the better comparison. 183 square inches of surface area vs 135 for the 34 row or 99 for the 25 row. It correlates with the hp rating more than the BTU. 325-425 for the 25 row (great for NA), 400-475 (full bolt on's or mild boost) with the 34 row, and 600+ (FI) on the 72. I'm thinking there has to be a serious load on the 72 row to show it's merit over the 6 series coolers. It would make sense that GTM offers twin 34 row oil coolers to cool it's most powerful FI setups, as they package easier and can handle a lot of power. IMO, it's better to look at the hp rating than BTU per hour due to the variables to match it. We don't match intercoolers as to how many BTU's per hour they cool, but by their hp rating.

If I were to do it all over again, I would have saved my money and gotten something smaller, but now that the car is going FI, I'm glad I sent the extra $150 to get it over a 34 row. :tiphat:

Mike, Thanks for the pic...and your track miles R impressive. Yeah, rather not be 4 wheel squid! I'd kick my own *** if I put anything together 1/2 assed anyway...plus SS just looks better. (no disrespect intended for those who use compression fittings....just not how I was raised). I'm kinda into under the hood visual details. I paint and powder coat Way too many parts!

Probably going to start with 25 setrab or stillen and see how it goes. It's been a while since I've been on track (solo SCCA not included and there is plenty of cool off time there)

RE the HP vs BTU argument...

Ultimately, they're the same thing. One is a measure of work done, the other is a measure of thermal energy, but in the case of an internal combustion engine, they're pretty much analogous. If one is easier for you to understand/visualize, use it.

Lol, you can't see the SS lines with a 25 row anyways
I originally got the compression because the lines were a very similar color to my car

lol you're ridiculous.

I don't care if the hoses rub ****, I want the hoses to survive more than I care about them scuffing up anything.

Just my thought on it, plus I didn't get a whole lot of choice in it, the guy building the kit for me just ordered **** and said pay for it. We all have our moments of weakness...

DE...I am aware...and how did I know you were gonna say that!

Decided to jus track it first and see how hard I end up pushing it,...what my OT's end up preventing me from doing , (runs 185 stock) then make my decis. Thanks for all the recs....i WILL use em'....thanks boys! Off topic...,Did decide on stillen front facia, side skirts and amuse back end. Installed nismo s-tune spoiler yesterday... Few hang ups...Totally IN LOVE. Pics to come for build thread....gotta hit up someone here for audio advice. Need have a potable box that can be removed for racing.. Local audio specialists say 1.5 g's JBL.... Sooo gotta be able to go cheaper with quality ... DIY.. No pain no gain/ time right? Advi?