I like the idea of staying stock but for me 18's are usually cheaper, and have more choices. Did the wider setup fit without rubbing? If I stay stock size ill probably look at 285/-295/30/19 for the front and 305 rear

Yep, no rubbing. I feel that anything wider in the front may run a bit, but if you are switching tires for AutoX days, then you should be fine. But like I said, I think the stock size feels a bit better to run on.

You may want to have a read through this thread:
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...res-autox.html

Long story short, if you find a good lightweight set of 18" rims that are C-Street legal, and they're not $700 a wheel, please let us all know what they are ;-)

I run 275/35R19 RS3s front and back on my stock wheels.

I run nismo rims on my sport... 295/30 rear and 256/30 front toyo r888. They are a lot more grippy than stock...I have been trying to build my suspension to marry it all up and still adding parts. I run asp though not cstock. Took off my cats. ;-) right now coils and rear SPL camber arms. Trying to get some Spl front pieces. The more I tinker the more I just want to buy a miata and be done with it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2

Yeah, i think im gonna run cheap knockoff's 9" all the way around and just be happy with it.
Have another question for you guys, I've been running a FS srt crossfire for 3 years, and haven't needed to look at the rules since there isn't much made for these cars, anyway someone asked a question about running nismo shocks/strut bar in a sport 370, these parts are offered from nissan with the sport package, wouldn't this be legal then in CS?

The Nismo sway bars are NOT on the sport package and therefore make using both of them illegal in CS. Can't remember off hand if the shocks are the same between the Sport and Nismo.

Not the same

You're right they are not the same but they are both options from nissan when building a car online, that's my confusion, years ago you could run any part ad long as it was an option from the factory

dealer installed, thats what i was messing up

Ran my first event in the car Saturday, couple quick Q:
1. Are there any front bars out there stiffer than the Hotchkis? In the past I've usually built my own swaybars using modular components from Speedway Engineering, has anybody done something similar on a Z and have pictures of how they did it?
2. Before each run I pushed the button to make the little yellow skidmarks icon light up, but there seemed to be a lot of different lights flashing during the run. I think there was one when the revs got high, and maybe a flashing yellow one sometimes, and in watching video later, it seemed like the trip odometer section would light up and turn off at times on course. Is there any rhyme or reason to all this Christmas tree action? Are there any I should be worried about? There's not much time to look at that stuff, but if there's an important one to watch for...

Car was decent, pretty floppy soft, even for a stock car. Went way to push once all leaned over, too bad they didn't provide some negative camber adjustability up front, it would be soooooooooo much better a car.

Oh, it was warm (~97) out. Did two runs in short succession. Oil temp went 180->220 in one run, 220->240+ on the second. Probably couldn't have survived a third without limp mode.

Hotchkis is the stiffest bar.

Flashing lights are most likely the light for the ELSD kicking in (car applying brakes to spinning tire).

Defrost, full heat, hood open between runs. Spray the radiator if necessary.

Is there a way to turn off ELSD? Special magic handshake?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=985VnvvRFDQ
Very noticeable at 1:13-1:14

While counter intuitive, I've had better luck turning the AC on max which forces the radiator fans to come on and stay on. Personally I think AC on works much better than full heat from personal experience.

AC on with temp knob to full hot gets 'er done. Fans slow down as temps drop below 205.

Also for the lights. Check the brake fluid level.