As a point of reference, I have 18x10 +30 wheels up front wrapped in 315/30 Hoosiers.

I would think the 18 x 10.5 Enkei RPF1 is the wheel you're looking for. iirc that's the wheel the STU 350z's have been using.

Is this it? The offset seems like it would be pretty high for the front.

Enkei RPF1 Wheel - 18x10.5 / 5x114.3 / +15 (F1 Silver) | Evasive Motorsports

Yeah that's the wheel I'm talking about. Offset isn't that crazy. As I said above this is the wheel that a number of the STU 350z's are running. Also iirc one or two of the Pirelli world challenge 370z's were using this wheel.

For reference the Enkei wheel would only be ~1/2" more "poke" than my setup in the picture below. You will need a spacer for the rear though.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4369/...f00168c9_z.jpgUntitled by Matt, on Flickr

Most top STU 350's are on 11's actually...and you definitely want an 11" or wider 315 A's.

Well aware of this. Just hard to drop the coin on new wheels with everyone trying to kill the SP category these days.

Did some measuring this morning. I'm currently running a 275 on my oem 9 inch wide wheels. I have a little over an inch to go before it would cause rubbing with the fender. This is with stock camber which is a little over -1.0 on the "good" side. There will be even more clearance once camber has been optimized. I'm not too worried about the rear.

Seems like anything from a +35 to a +20~ should be able to clear without issue.

autocross shocks
 

hi was hoping I could find someone on here that could guild me to a proper autocross shock and swaybar , I have a 2016 370z nismo I ve been running re-71s for about 6 months now I run in A street and don't want to change classes I am only allowed to change shocks and 1 sway bar front or rear but not both. Ive been racing againt 2012 z06 vettes and 1le cameros porche 911and getting spanked, my driving skills need work but so does the car could someone guide me in the right direction please

Hotchkis front bar and a set of Koni yellows is what you're looking for.

fwiw Investing in the nut behind the wheel is always going to be a better investment than upgrading the car. It's easy to blame the car when you're just starting out but over time you'll learn more often than not, it's the driver that's the limiting factor.

If your budget is less than $2000, then Koni Yellow shocks and Hotchkis front sway bar will do well. You might want to try a bar slightly less stiff than Hotchkis.

If your budget is higher, you might look at JRZ RS or RS Pro (which I have). Other good brands to think about are Motion Control and Ohlin.

Another tip on alignment. The front is non-adjustable on camber, but of course the car wants more. To address this, I would suggest loosening the upper control arm (a-arm) bolts with the car in the air, then lowering the car on the ground, then tightening the bolts while on the ground. This will take up any slop in the joint and possibly give you a little more camber. I never got to try this on my 370Z before selling, but on my nd miata, I gained about .2 degrees (more negative).

Has anyone put any effort into STU build 370Z for the coming season? We finally got what a lot of us wanted. Hopefully we will see a nice turnout nationally.

I know of one person who is near me. I believe it will debut at Dixie Champ Tour or Charlotte Match Tour.

No 370z at Dixie, but I would like to start discussing ideas on what route to go with an stu build.

Mine will take place over a couple seasons but I want to do coils and alignment correction first over the winter break in 2018.

I want to try out the fortune auto 500s or have a set of 510 made. Going with them because of price and the fact that they are serviceable in the US. They are pretty well regarded in the time attack community so they should be able to stand up to solo. I want to stay in the 1.8hz range front and rear for spring rate. If anyone has feedback on what frequency would be better, I would be interested.

For camber correction I like the z1 kit. It seems to fall into the rules of the class and adds some caster. I'm not married to this option and would like to see what else is out there and legal for scca stu rules, but it seems to be slim pickings.

Last will be wheels and tires. I want to wait until suspension is sorted before I purchase pricey aftermarket wheels because I want to be able to accurately measure clearances. The z seems to be blessed in this area. I am running square 285 on the stock wheels and its clearing easy. 18's would be the obvious choice. With the tall second gear we could drop a few inches in overall diameter and still top out at ~65mph in 2nd gear which is the magic number. I admit the only reason why I would be hesitant to drop down would be aesthetics.

The rest of the allowance will wait depending on how I develop as a driver but I would be interested in what we feel are particularly weak areas on the chassis that should be addressed with stu allowances and what the impact might be.

I misspoke about Dixie -- Charlotte will be his first National event.

Brenden- will you be doing an LSD early on?

:icon18:

Just my two cents but I can't see a STU 370z being worth a damn without a proper clutch type LSD.

I personally don't know. The stock one hasn't let me down, but I don't know how that will be as I do more events and the car gets modified. I don't have much experience driving cars with a true type lsd so getting that seat time will def be a priority in terms of developing my own car.

In regards to the vlsd, what driving characteristics should one look for when determining that the limits of the dif have been exceeded?

Oh, and I hope he does well. I'd like to reach out to him after to get his impressions and learn more about his build.

The Official 370Z Autocross Thread
 

Agree with Gomer — you’ll want the LSD. It’s prob top 5 on my list of ST mods (wheels/tires, coilovers, a-arm, lsd, power mod). Basically you’ll spin the inside wheel on every corner exit. The car won’t rotate on throttle application (which adds to understeer, but saves you from spinning out). The VLSD doesn’t allow the power to be put down. If you’re driving the car hard in BS, you’re already being held back. A friend of mine drove my Z once and thought my clutch was slipping, but it was just the inside tire smoking LOL.

Why would a clutch type be more beneficial than others? I understand a lot of people prefer the OS Geiken model.

Edit: From what I understand the main difference is that a clutch type works better when one wheel is off the ground. That would seem like a pretty rare circumstance on a rwd car on street tires with more or less open suspension modifications available. Is that the main concern for those recommending a clutch type? I don't like that clutch types may affect street driving and require service.

Edit 2: If the clutch type is the way to go, what are the thoughts on the Nismo 1.5 way?

Edit 3: apparently the lock in a clutch type has more tunability. The torsion types can be tuned as well but to a lesser degree. It also seems that the poor street ability comes on the higher ends of lock and that you can build diffs like the osg to have a more progressive street friendly lock transition. The biggest knock is service but if we are talking once a year, that doesn't seem so bad. What is the typical interval?

I have a Cusco diff for sale soon if anyone wants one. Replaced all the clutches less than 3000 miles ago.

For cheap 18" wheels check out the 18x10.5 Konig Hypergram, they are $880 for the set and weighs 19 lbs

ftfy

The wheel doesn't have to be off the ground to cause issue, just unloaded. When I used to have the Quaife (torsen style) in my car it was a real problem on corner exit getting the power down consistently. I imagine the vLSD would probably be slightly better than a torsen in that sense but only as long as the special goo in it hasn't broken down. Clutch types simply don't care if a wheel is unloaded or in air and will give you consistent and confident power down on corner exit.

From everything I've heard and read, the reason the OSG's are preferred is they are silky smooth unlike many other clutch type LSD's. My Cusco 1.5 way is admittedly harsh and clunky when not driving the car hard. It is still tolerable for when the car occasionally sees street driving.

While I'm no expert on the maintenance of LSD's, I can say I've had mine in the car for 2 full seasons now with no indication of needing a rebuild yet. Also consider that is with the car running on Hoosiers which can be more punishing to equipment than street tires.

Newest SCCA Fastrack is out and Nismo's are now legal for STU also. Now to determine how much I like the purple crack.

Thank you for the in depth reply. That's the level of conversation I was looking for. I did a ton of research into the osg and think this may be the way to go.

How much would you need to change to come down to STU? On paper this car should be really competitive.

I'd need to read the ST rules. At first guess I'm probably looking at:

radiator
clutch
flywheel
intake plenum
cats
maybe seats
factory spoiler

While I still have the factory parts, a couple of these would be rather time consuming to replace. As I still have some virgin Hoosiers to burn through it wouldn't be until at least next season before I'd do it anyways.

Edit - And I've already bought BSP stickers for the car that I'll need to get some use out of.

Radiator may be a problem. From the one thread. Seems like all the aftermarket ones are having issues. Could you install hood vents instead?

Do you run a lighter radiator? I think you can run an aftermarket radiator in ST if it is OEM dimensions and capacity

What fluid did you use in the Cusco? Mine is pretty smooth with PA90

It has the Cusco LSD oil in it. I don't recall the oil weight at the moment. Might give the PA90 a shot when I change the fluid next.

Talks about oil towards the end.

And today I was reminded again why running Hoosiers is far better than street tires. The stupid amount of grip and the things you can do with that much grip is just too much fun.

I did an event this last weekend on stickier tires and the silicone fluid in that stock VLSD must have been beyond toast. It may as well have been an open diff coming out of turns.
With how negligibly it was putting power down, I'm assuming that inner tire was almost fully unloaded. In that case, a Quaife would only transfer 3x that amount to the other wheel. And 3x roughly zero is still roughly zero.

Had a good *** time at nationals. It was cool to see some of you guys and your cars in person and sorry for any of those I didnt get to say hello to. This last year racing the z has been really eye opening. I really do still think the car can trophy in bs at nationals, but it would take a set of very particular circumstances to do so in addition to a driver more talented than I, lol. I had a good time this year in BS but cant wait to make the move to STU. I took a few photos that will be sharing in here. Cheers.

Kinda bummed I wasn't able to get over and watch BS run this year. It seemed like all the classes I wanted to watch were running on opposite course on the same days.

Wish I had could have had the same luck as you this year. Day 1 was only two runs as I ran 6th heat on Tues. and we lost daylight. Didn't bother taking the third run the following morning since it was cold and wet. Day 2 I got one run before the car lost clutch hydraulics (probably the CSC). Was able to jump into a partially prepped MSM but wasn't able to go faster than the one run I made in my car. Other than hanging out in paddock with friends and eating some awesome bbq, this was the worst nationals I've attended in the four years I've gone.

One interesting thing that did come out of BSP this year was the results of the 350z that ran BSP. Talking to them, the car was just an STU car with Hoosiers and a 100 octane tune. Maybe there's still hope for taking it to the MSM's after all. The ND Miata does appear to be in a league of it's own though.

To be honest, I left the class too soon. The MSM's should be faster than they are....I don't get it. That said, I haven't seen the pace from them since Robert's S2k and I left in 2014 to make me think we wouldn't still be in front. ND is the future, though, and I'm guessing the ND2 will be the car to have after it bumps into BSP in 2019-2020.

Oh...and no way on the 370z's competitive relevance in BS. The cayman does everything better.....everything. And even the Cayman will slowly get drown out on power courses....

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1871/...7a265252_z.jpg_BES0145 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1883/...3f70d6a7_z.jpg_BES0220 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1860/...daf03f4d_z.jpg_BES0307 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/...d1ab77a5_z.jpg_BES0617 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

My personal favorite. My buddy borrowed my camera during my first run. Caught the car during a spin but it was wild to see two off the ground.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1876/...d44bd47f_z.jpg_BES1653 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

Broken POS

No bicycles on on course.:rofl2:

Weird things happen when you spin, and bicycle. :eek:

:rofl2:

Looks like Nissan finally decided to support their autocross customers. Just got information today on the 2019 Nissan Racer Contingency Program and they're paying contingency for National Tours, ProSolos, ProSolo Finale, and Solo Nats. For Tours and Pros it's $300 for 1st, $200 for 2nd, and $100 for 3rd as long as there are five starters in a class.

Time for me to stop sucking and earn some $$$.

Agreed! "Go Fast...Don't Suck!"

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