Brakes @ Summit Point this weekend ...
... well I didn't tear the car up so that's good. But had my day cut short on account of the brakes.
I had put some EBC slotted rotors and NDX Blue Stuf pads on ... did not get a chance to put RBF-600 in or do the SS lines but was going to take it easy like last time anyway, Anyhoo...all of a sudden the pedal got really stiff, like driving an old car without power brakes. I had to push like incredibly hard to get it to slow down. Didn't happen in a bad spot, thank goodness so I just made it the rest of the way around and hit the pits. The pads smelled pretty bad when I came in. But after they cooled down they seem fine. Drove it to work a few times this week and it still seems fine. I am guessing because the pedal did not go to the floor and got stiff, that my issue was not with boiling fluid. I am thinking the rotors and pads were better than stock, but because they are better they got hotter. Or I may have run the brake booster out of vacuum maybe ? Either way I am going to do the booster canister thing, and get some cooling ducts on the calipers. Any thoughts or input appreciated. http://www.the370z.com/members/sixpa...4317-370z5.jpg |
ice mode
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It's cause by the weird programming in the ABS computer. People have claimed to be able to fix it by messing with the vacuum system. I have had success just driving around it.
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Pads too aggressive, ABS doesnt like it. It is not a fault, it's just program that way
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Also could have been pad fade. If you overheat the surface of the pad then they will glaze and you'll get significantly reduced braking performance. SP Main has 2 hard braking zones the front straight being the worst, 130mph -> 40mph.
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Look Ma, No Clutch!
It was good seeing you up at the Point last weekend. Add some brake ducts and sign up for a full weekend next time.
My second day was quite memorable. While on the track, my clutch slave cylinder began to fail (meaning I was finding it harder and harder to disengage the clutch). I had to make a quick decision and just leave it in fourth gear for the whole session. After pit in, I needed a push to get back into the paddock. Then it hit me… I have no ability to engage the clutch and I drove here with my tire trailer. I want to thank the guy from Nissan Motorsports who stayed with me until 7:00 p.m. trying to fix the problem. However, it soon became clear that the problem could not be fixed. I was sitting in the now empty paddock in a driving rain storm. I had a decision to make. Call my wife and let her know that I am going to need a tow because I broke my car. Or… I turned the car off, disengaged the parking brake, and pushed the gear lever into first gear. Then I hit the starter button. The car lurched forward and fired to life in first gear. I drove about twenty feet and pulled the gear lever into neutral. A firm push on the shifter fell neatly into second gear. I could do this! I was able to drive the 60 miles home without the use of my clutch! And for everyone (not in this track section) who flamed me last year for my thread on how to drive the 370Z without the clutch. Screw you!:driving: |
CSC failure?
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And SixPax, EBC make great pads but every pad reacts differently to each car. Why don’t you just use Carbo Tech XP/10’s? We know that the CarboTech’s work great on our cars. Why experiment with other pads?
Remember, I tried to use a set of Porterfield R-4’s that morning. Porterfield is a recognized name in brake pads. But the brake judder was so intense I had to pit after 3 laps and swap my well worn CarboTechs back in for the rest of the weekend. And if anyone is interested, there is a $500 set of barely used Porterfield R-4’s in the trash can across from the gas pumps. |
Sucks to hear about what happened with the brakes. I was looking forward to testing out my XP8's on the main circuit that day. Do you guys know of any other groups that do hyperdrives at Summit Point? NASA screwed me out of this one on the 18th and their next one at SM isn't till November. I don't have the money to do a full day/weekend, but one hyperdrive session for $50 is good enough.
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What tires are you running Craig? I've found that with my XP8's, my braking is still limited by my tires and I have RE050A's on mine. I'll probably upgrade to the XP10's the next time I get pads, depending on how much track experience I have by then.
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ouch^, the car is a complete different beast once u upgrade!!, I currently run 275/35/19 square, might move up to 285...
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The XP10 definitely feels a lot better than the XP8, pedal is stiffer and it feels a lot more responsive. I just had a feel of near fade with the XP8 for some odd reason, probably due to the less responsive pedal. I didn't run into ice mode quite as easy, which is good.
b1adesofcha0s, if you ever get some 19" rims, i will donate some re11s to you. I am going to swap my front ones probably within two months |
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Honestly though, I'm still just a beginner. The only thing I really need is more track time and experience. The less money I spend on mods, the more I can spend on HPDE's.
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It's fine. I have a set of tires that are still good for a few more days, but not good enough to sell to make money. I might as well give it to a good home as I will never use them again
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You can do it, you will probably only be able to do 265 or something. I have a feeling 265/35/18 or 265/40/18 is a hard size to find tires though.
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If I understand correctly, this square setup should help dial out understeer and help the car rotate better in the turns, right? |
You don't want to put too much tire onto a skinny wheel; ie 275s (275mm=10.8 inches) on the 8" front base wheels. They won't be well supported and will roll over the rim more easily. Best case is terrible camber wear on the outsides.
265/285 on nismo wheels is almost neutral and without a good camber option on the front is the best I could do for wear right now. The primary function of a square setup is to allow you to rotate tires front to rear to even out wear. To do that effectively means using the same size wheels front and back, which then calls for spacers in the rear. In the meantime you are giving up potential grip by not running larger rears. The Z is blessed with an excellent capacity for MOAR TIRE. With stock weight distribution and plenty of power to put down I don't see the major appeal of matching front to back. tldr Beef up the fronts, but keeping a stagger will see the best performance. |
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Also, sorry for hijacking your thread Craig. You could probably make use of all this information too since you're also running the base wheels. I can start a separate thread for this discussion if you like. |
Isn't Nismo wheels 9.5/10.5? If I can run 285 all around on my 9/10, you can easily do 295 all around on yours. I am getting better wear on my 285F than my 265F, but I think it has to do with the fact the car understeers a lot less and I am not using so much steering to compensate. The 370 is front heavy to start, the bigger the front tires, the better the car will turn and drive. I do 285 because 275/30 and 295/30 puts the car too low and 295/35 is too high and it is a stretch on a 9" front rim. It has nothing to do with rotation, but I did keep the 285 from my first set as spares.
I don't have a direct comparison of the two tires in terms of lap times since I haven't done the same tracks with the two different setup. There are too many variables in autox to say, but my gut feeling tells me the car feels better (probably adds up to like .2 sec in terms of times). My average finish position also went slightly higher too, but that probably has more to do with competition than anything else. I got 200 runs on my 265/285, I am approaching 170 runs on my 285 and they look like they got about 40-50 runs left. 275 on a 9 is fine, I wouldn't do it on a 8. Quote:
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Alright then, looks like this is the route I will go. I'll find another pair of rears from someone locally and then just get 275's all around when I buy tires in the spring.
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18x9 has a lot of cheap wheels available. I don't know how much base wheels are going from, but you can find some cheapies at Discount Tire for $150 a pop
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MB motoring weapon is like 21lbs. there is a new wheel that is 19lbs for 600 for the set. I forgot the name, but same company makes the fallen wheels
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I wonder if 245/275 setup on the base 18 wheels would be any good ?
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Edit: I had all seasons in stock sizes and then moved to all seasons with 245/275 and felt more grip with the wider tires. |
they all work. just a matter of how fast you want to go and how much u want to spend
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