Autocross questions
 

First of all I fully agree that the best way to get better at autocross is to become a better driver first then mod my car. However, I have the attention span of a gnat and I cant help but tinker with everything so .... The general consensus seems to be sway bars, better brake pads, stainless brake lines, and of course good tires are the basic mods. I wanted to find out (in regards to autocross specifically) what other mods I might need to consider. For instance, the runs are so short I am not sure an oil cooler would be needed. What other ideas or age advice do yall have? Thanks!

If you are concerned about classing then there aren't a lot of mods you can make and still be in stock class. The main ones are, front swaybar (not rear), tires (any approved DOT tire including grooved slicks), dampers (but not springs). But like you said the best mod of all is the driver!

Oil cooler is not permitted (nor necessary) in stock class, it would bump you to street prepared.

OEM brakes (pads, rotors, lines) work great for autox IMO. An oil cooler is not necessary, if the temps start getting too high crank the heat on defrost and open the hood between runs.

Were the 2012 changes approved? Allows one swaybar change either front or back.

You may want to look into an oil cooler just because and forgo pads, lines ect. I know my car between runs was getting up in the 230-240 range. I feel the car does loose some power when it gets above 180-220 range. I have kw v3's, camber arms, intake, exhaust, upgraded brakes, the only thing I didnt do was an oil cooler thinking for auto-x I wouldnt need it. I was incorrect.

How do you like the kw v3's? I am very interested in those down the road. Which sways do you have?

I didn't see it in the current rule proposal listing, I will ask.

The power loss is from heat soak, not oil temperature. There is nothing wrong with oil temps in the 230-240 range. To vent some of the heat you can turn on the A/C with heat, and pop the hood. The stock air intake is plastic at least which helps to resist the heat.

Looks like it made it into the final draft. Approved by the BOD at the Oct meeting and noted in the December newsletter.
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/...ck-dec-bod.pdf

(Page 6) ITEM 10)
Change 13.7: 13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS
A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware (brackets, end links, bushings, etc.) is permitted.
B. Substitution, addition, or removal of an anti-roll bar may serve no other purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.
C. The use of any bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be implemented as a bearing.
D. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommodate anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.

Comment: The origin of Stock sway bar rule was an allowance to improve vehicle dynamics at a time when sway bars
were not commonplace in new cars, and RWD was the most common layout in the automobile industry. FWD and AWD
are common today, and throughout the years there have been comments pointing out that FWD cars would benefit
more from a rear sway bar change. In an effort to broaden the field of competitive vehicles across the entire range
of the Stock classes, the SAC would like to introduce the option of changing or adding the front OR rear sway bar.
The committee believes this promotes the core values of the club by increasing participation with broader choices of
competitive models, improved tire wear and improved handling for specific vehicle drive trains.

Yes you can replace either the front or the rear sway bar but not both. You should still only change the front on the 370.

If your only going to do one mod for auto-X, I suggest a set of Hoosier A6's.

Although, now you are going to need a separate set of wheels and street tires to get to the event. Unfortunately, your extra set of wheels will not fit in your Z.

So now you need to convince your wife/girlfriend to wake up at 5:30 a.m. and drive your wheels to the event and waste her entire day sitting around in the heat. Ok, that won’t work…

In the alternative, you can fabricate a custom tow hitch through the rear back up camera block off. Then you need to buy a trailer to haul your wheels. That’s a little complicated and expensive…

Just buy the damn sway bar…

:tup:

Haha Res that's my primary course of action:'convincing her to either autocross our MKV GTI or drive the GTI with a spare set of tires for the Z.

Either way it should be win win for me unless she goes out there and gets frustrated with the heat or running for cones.

The only way your wife is going to go is if she meets another wife there and they head off to go shopping...

First determine what class you will run. If you run stock Just do front swaybar and get set of Hoosier A6's or new Good Year DOT R AX compounds. Optimize alignment best you can. Listen to the guy who was 4th in Nationals one year.

If you dont care about class then good set of springs and dampers, front swaybar, nice set of 18x9.5 fronts and 18x10.5 rears. You can run 295 A6 up front and 315 in rear on those wheels. No clearence of spacers needed.

Finally get a good LSD like OS Giken.

Leave brakes alone - the stockers are perfect for AX. Contrary to popular belief you dont want track brakes on an autocross car. If you live in cooler area dont think you will need oil cooler however I was really not happy with temps of my car just with spirited street driving. I couldnt stand to see spiking temps so installed a cooler on my car.