I think 2800 is possible. You can drop a lot weight removing driver and passenger windows, and using lexan for the rear hatch even if you don't do a carbon rear hatch. If legal lexan for the front windscreen.

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https://www.plastics4performance.com...indow-kit.html

For lexan, it can shave a lot, but I will be hesitant to take weight from the back, so it will not be too light on the rear tires, it can make the car snappy with trail braking.

I get that if you have no rear aero! You can also relocate that 40lbs battery to the rear.

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Yeah, don't get me wrong, I think 2800 is possible and 2700 will require some more extreme efforts. My weight is with no driver/passenger windows but with the front shield and rear glass. The rear glass could definitely lose some weight up high, which would be huge, but there's no way I'm dropping another 200 lbs without pulling every single wire, bolt, harness, and cutting out every bit of the dash that can be removed. After that the lightness gets more and more expensive.

I'm trying to slot this car into NASA Tt3 where I'll need about 30-50lbs ballast that I can have balanced in (probably a lead brick in the rear somewhere).

Wonder what the stock rear bar weighs? I might try running without it like a few others have. I'm sure it's not light...

I am right there with you. I want to fit into TT 1 so I need to stay over 3100 and 3200 would be better for the power to weight ratio I am shooting for. If I can't get get there then it is TT U and then I will start shaving even more off. I left the driver's passenger windows in because I still want to drive it on the street from time to time.

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Biggest weight savings you are going to get is the doors. They are incredible heavy fully dressed with windows, crash bar, etc. My doors are something like 60+lbs per door lighter than stock. That really isn't an option unless you have a full cage, though.

Dry carbon doors can be pretty cost prohibitive for most, however, and some of the vendor offerings for carbon doors are not a whole lot lighter than skinning the factory doors once you get hinges on, etc.

Definitely agree on both points. The door is already pretty light with door cards, windows, etc gone so if you have a full cage, ripping out the supports is a great savings that the cage adds back in a bit. Worth it, but I'm curious how much the door supports alone lost you once the full cage difference was added in?

What if you rebuild the chassis out of titanium? I bet that would get you some weight savings!

If you make that happen, I will pay you one million dollars!

imagine....that thing would take flight

Ti isn't stiff enough. It has more flex in it then either aluminum or steel.

How about unobtanium?

while your at it fill the titanium tubes with helium for extra lightness

You can do what ever you want with that stuff. :tup:

Porsche used to fill the chassis tubes on the 917 racer with N2 and had a gauge on the dash. If the gauge dropped pressure. The chassis had a crack and would fail in short time. Causing an accident. So it gave the drivers a chance to slow down.