Good to know. I'll take a look at them more. Maybe they have a reason they didn't use wickers, but from reading the mustang forums a few guys have added wickers and dramatically improved results.

Here's a link to the verus ones I was going to try to fit:
https://www.verus-engineering.com/sh...41?category=33

I would agree if the car will stay without aero, with a wing, the weight distribution will not matter unless it is in Autocross or very slow circuit, without aero in a fast circuit, it is going to snap oversteer easily.

And I agree, 3000lbs needs major works, mine is at 1460 kg without driver, I think half tank of gas, removed spare and tools, many other bits, but with both seats installed, I assume it will come down to 1440 with racing seat and without passenger seat, I did it but didn't weight it :icon17:

So, 3200 lbs WITHOUT PASSENGER could be possible with some efforts but no major work.

I've got my rear end completely gutted with fixed-back race seats. I'm hovering right around 3300-3400. So damn heavy! With that said, I've just recently replaced my coolant overflow resevoir with a much smaller one and removed the washer fluid tank. Lastly, I replaced the front bash bar for a custom lightweight tube for future FI clearance and weight reduction.

I'm curious what other people have done to lose some weight in the front, I feel like my car is now front-end heavy with all the gutting I've done in the rear.

Street2Soul is down to 3000lbs. I'll link you his IG your dms

You are going to always chasing something in the Z when it comes to balancing. All bets are off for those of us TT kits. I also added a larger bash bar to mount the splitter to. The biggest bang for the buck is a lightweight battery. You can gain more weight functional control by getting lighter rotors and wheels. If you are going for mostly racecar then get rid of creature comforts like the AC and condenser. You can go all out and remove the heater core and blowers. From there it is all about suspension up front. Get a good set of coilovers.

The rear you will want a wing and contrary to popular belief they do work at relatively slow speeds. Most the tracks I run on are less than 2 miles long and heavy car or not most everyone in a competitive series runs one if they are allowed. I was shocked how much the wing helped on the Miata! We took it off and she was ha handful on anything over 45 mph.

Also having spent some time with the crew from Nissan that has been to the last few ZDAYZ events and them providing us a tour of the Nissan Heritage Museum, which is not open to the public we talk about the need for better grip and rotation of the rear of the car. Jeremy promptly took me over to one of the 280z race cars and showed me their solution. There was a post welded on each side of the rear wheel well were they added weight directly over the wheel to gain additional mechanical grip. He said the additional weight was worth it in lap times. In fact the Nissan Pace Car they brought to ZDAYZ, a 300 Z, they added about 300 lbs to the trunk to make it behave on the track due to the power level of the car. It was essentially their Trans AM car. Anyway Jeremy suggested I do the same as they did with the 280z. We will see how well the wing does.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Is this balance due to the hatchback nature of the car, which basically has a bunch of empty space in the back?

a carbon hatch would have done wonders, huh?

I think that is part of along with being rear wheel drive. This is not much of an issue with front wheel drive hatchbacks.

Austin Hurtel added a cf hatch a a 9 Lives wing to his racecar. He was fast before he gutted and detuned his car so he could race wheel to wheel. His initial results are promising.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Very interesting stuff. I've been curiously thinking that if my rear end is so darn light compared to my front, could this have a negative impact on my rear-end grip (and I think it does). I'm playing around with suspension setups, tire pressure, and no swaybar to see if that helps. Having a stock diff definitely doesn't help either lol As for your comment about aero, I'd love to run aero but at this time I'm planning on competing in Gridlife Street class which limits us to no aero at all unless stock USDM or JDM.

Carbon hatch would help, but not by much (by itself). The heaviness in the hatch actually comes from the glass. If I could replace my hatch with a CF one AND replace the glass with plexiglass, I'd be golden! But unfortunately, my class doesn't allow for plexiglass.

You need to talk to Austin, he holds and broke several records in Street class with his Z. He is really fast!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Yep - we're facebook friends :)

I can run as low as low 2900's with driver, fuel and/or ballast, and that is full cage. 350z, but still...

Figure 2700 no driver and a gallon in the tank and that is with pretty heavy aero.

2700 would be tough. You'd have to fully rip out the dash, door framing, replace panels with real carbon panels (not that fiberglass stuff with a layer of carbon on top), and start chopping away at the structural bits that are no longer needed with a cage.

I'm sitting at 3010 without driver but with fuel. Another 300 lbs is tough to find, but doable with some persistence.

If you don’t already know or assume, putting some context to his post, this is his car. Ain’t nothing regular about his car haha

http://www.the370z.com/other-vehicle...ce-car-fs.html

I don't know exactly what my cage weighs, but I'm willing to bet my car is mid 2500's dry with no cage in....so you might need to find 500lbs haha.

I just meant in the context of getting a 370z down to that weight.