Speed Sensor Alternative?
 

I recently replaced my OEM ABS with the BMW MK60 unit. Amazing difference, but has posed a small problem. Since I no longer get a wheel speed signal to the ECU, my rev match “blipper” no longer woks. Do you guys know of an alternative to re establishing that signal so maybe it will work again (I’m not very good at heal-toe)? I’ve looked at the AEM GPS speedometer, and a transmission swap speedometer pickup as options, but not sure if either of those are viable or effective options. Thanks for any advice.

The MK60 outputs conditioned digital wheel speed data in both 5v and 12v depending on configuration. However, this signal won't work for the 370z.

In stock form, the vehicle speed is sent from the ABS module via the CAN Bus to the BCM and Unified meter and A/C amp modules. From there the Unified meter and A/C amp module sends the vehicle speed to 4-7 other modules, depending on options.


The wheel speed signal needs to be converted (pulses to vehicle speed) and then broadcast on the CAN bus network in the same data format as the original ABS module.

I am not aware of any module that can do this, so it would have to be custom built and programmed.

Learn to heel toe! You can be as proficient or better than the auto rev match.

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That’s great info! Thank you. I guess I’ll just have to practice heal-toe for now.

Yeah. I guess my days of being a lazy driver are over. At least the car stops on a dime now. I wish I had switched to the BMW ABS long ago!

So besides better stopping distance, are better able to modulate the brakes and is brake feel increased?

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Modulation is something I’m working on. Just did a few days at Daytona and pedal was really sensitive, which made modulating tricky. I’m at Sebring next weekend (my home track) and will really be able to test it out fully. I may end up removing the brake booster if it remains that sensitive.

Let us know what you learn!

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I'm not sure if it'll work with the 370Z, but with my 350Z, I was able to split my ABS unit in half. Leaving the electronic connector portion so I could keep the tach, etc working.. but get rid of the ABS.

Maybe this would work for you too? Not sure how you've got things connected..

Thanks. I’ll look into that approach. I did leave the old unit in the car because the ECU needs to see that it’s at least there.

Ahh.. Well if you have the wires connected to the old unit, I guess you've already tried that solution then. I don't think splitting it in half will help any. :)

You will have to convert to a stand-alone unfortunately to get the rev match to work far as I know. Emtron kv16 but you don’t have any can bus integration (so custom patch harness to get full can bus control) , haltech nexus R5 has all the can bus protocol just needs a harness made, motec m150 full plug n play, take the factory Ecu out plug the motec in and start tuning and figuring **** out. Since the Z is blackballed ( for whatever reason) in any type of racing there isn’t much out there. So guys like you have to pave the way or spend time working around the factory Ecu.

Just install the AutoBlip. It actually works better than the factory rev match, because
it is only active if you are applying the brake, so no over rev if you are upshifting and
accidentally move the shifter in the direction of a downshift. Costs $ 400.00.

Looks very interesting! I’ll look into it. Thank you.

dude you have a race car!!!! learn how to heal toe...wayyyy more satisfying
the synchro rev takes all the fun away of a manual

also its really easy the way our pedals are placed. Its more a shove with ridge of your foot to your gas pedal than it is a heel toe, if that helps

Better lap times is also fun.

Ordered my auto-blip and plan to install it this weekend. Thanks for the tip!!

Better lap times come from driving better. If you aren't fast yet auto blip won't help.

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Maybe. I’m trying to use technology as an advantage. The less I have to move my feet, the more my brain can focus on braking and turn-in. I’m not nostalgic - just want to go fast.

We all want to go faster or at least those of us that are not content just turning laps! I don't think there is any advantage of auto rev matching over heel toeing once a driver becomes proficient at it. Auto rev matching is just a way to allow people to drive a manual without having to learn how H/T. The real time saver is to drive an auto so your hands never leave the wheel. There is a reason there are no manuals in pro racing anymore. Also from a practical point, if your auto blip takes crap on you and you don't know how to H/T your track day is done. I am not hating on auto rev match as it is convenient and gives those that don't want to have the full experience or just are not coordinated to still drive a manual. Good luck and I hope it works as you want it to. I know there are others that are waiting to hear your review.

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I have a full day of open track testing at Sebring on Dec 10 and will report back how it all works. Will be testing the placement/orientation of the MK60 yaw sensor too.

By that train of thought a real race car driver should turn off ABS and eliminate
power steering, for that true race car experience. I took a lesson from professional race car driver Jade Buford a couple of years ago and he told me
most drivers are not proficient at heal-toe. I sold my track only S2000, because it was not throttle by wire, so Auto Blip could not be installed. I can
only go to the track so many times per year, and spending most of those days just practicing H/T is money not well spent for me personally. Also, to cause the least amount of wear to the drivetrain double clutching is the way to go.
That means even more going on.

i mean, that sounds like music to my ears...but unfortunately im not experienced enough for no abs and power steering. That is my ultimate goal though....to race as raw as it gets, but i truly do not care for the fastest lap times, its about how much fun i can have around a course at all times and how engaged i am. my next project is gping to be an e46 set up excactly like that (at least no abs). if your'e going for speed and modernity, the z is the worst car to do that with. your'e basically buying a brand new car in 2020 thats from 2009....but that was always the beauty of it for me

true...definitely depends on your definition of fun :happydance:

You could of simply went to a DBW throttle body and implement auto blip. Lewis Hamilton is at the pinnacle of racing and he using electronics, and, tc and paddle shifts to be fast. Electronics and technology make cars faster plain and simple.

LMAO, you got have skills to take advantage of the technology. My fellow Miata racer has broken time trial records which he did the weekend before last in his Miata that has no power steering or abs. My Miata has no abs and we will be deleting the power steering before our next event on December 8th.

The bottom line is if you want modern tech that will help you be faster and overcome many of your driving faults, by an auto in a later model sports car and call it a day. Trying to make a manual drive faster without all of the other drive train upgrades will get you little to nothing at all. Spend the money on seat time and an instructor.

At some point the BMW DCT swap will be a real thing and that will the biggest time saver on our outdated manual transmission setup.

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sooooo how much was this ABS system? :rofl2:

$3,100 plus install. Jury is still out on value.

You’re right. Seat time is the most important mod. I’ll take electronics all day. I don’t have the budget to repair the track and my car at the same time. I’ll live with my faults and slowly try to over come them
With seat time. If I’m able to drive a manual transmission just as fast as Dct competitors then when And If I ever decide to make that switch I’ll be quick.

Plus I know my place in the car world. I can’t compete in the same class as these track mod and unlimited teams. I’m building car around the rules I can afford to be competitive in.
Biggest thing for any driver is to get comfortable driving on the limits. With or without electronics.

It will take time to work out all the kinks. You’re doing something very few have done, so can’t expect it to be perfect the first time out.

That’s true. I’m testing the BMW ABS at Homestead in two weeks with a different orientation of the YAW sensor. I have the Euro model, and turns out they install the yaw differently. Go figure.

Growing pains

Do t be this guy
 

Don’t be this guy.

How did the car do this weekend

The Auto-blipper did great, so my speed sensor issue is moot now. I developed my own wiring diagram for the Auto-Blip.com product, so if anyone wants it just let me know.

MK60 ABS system issues are also all worked out now, and it is AMAZING! Best track mod I’ve done. Zero ice-mode anymore and my brake zone got a LOT shorter. If anyone is interested, I can connect you with the builder.

So when I messaged ecutek to try and figure out if the Racerom 2 flash would enable rev match on non synchro rev cars i got

I wonder if ecutek auto blip could have been used in your situation as well.
But TIL about auto-blip so that's handy.

Thanks. When I replaced the OEM ABS, I no longer had a speedometer, so went with the bolt-on auto-blipper. It’s not a good as the OEM rev match that I lost, but very close. The delay and duration of the blip is adjustable, so I’m sure ill get it dialed in even better over time.

Hot damn

I was in similar position as you - had a lot of dangerous ice mode situations, so I bought motorsport flashed Teves MK60, but at the same time really didn't want to sacrifice speedo and rev match. I enjoy Rev Match way too much, to be letting it go that easy :)

Luckily we have found a solution. This method requires some fabrication skills, but overall works flawlessly.

We kept stock ABS unit (just a control module) in place, still connected to the ECU, with additional speed sensors in the rear. For that we had to fabricate new brackets for second rear speed sensors mounts.

Additional front speed sensors are wired in, but they are not even connected to the wheels. No need for that since speedo and rev match only gets its data from rear speed sensors. The only reason for additional front speed sensors is, because stock ABS needs to see all 4 speed sensors wired in, even with no data from the fronts. Otherwise you will get critical ABS fault, where speedo is not longer working.

Speed sensors for MK60 unit are in place of OEM's. Since they are the important ones from now on, better to have them in stock and secure location.

So basically if you want to enjoy both MK60 and rev match, you have to have in total 6 functional speed sensors (+2 just hanging somewhere) and two ABS units fitted in - one for actual ABS work (MK60) and second purely for rev match and speedo (stock ABS, but only the control module bit - you don't need stock pump and hydraulic module for speedo to work). Only difficult part are additional rear speed sensors mounts. Rest is pretty straight forward once you know the way,

Good luck!

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Very cool. Thanks for posting. I may try this to get my rev match back!!