This was my greatest worry. Putting a cast suspension component through another heat-cycle will make it extremely brittle. He really pushes his car on the track on I’ve yet to hear any bad stories. He’s been testing them for a while before he began to openly sell, so I would assume that he trusts the product enough...

Try it, but it might be too low. I've never hit the bump stops with my coils so I have my dampers set up to give me as much droop as possible. Lack of down travel can make a car handle as badly as a weird camber curve or hitting bump stops.

If you're not sure you can try setting up the damper up for maximum length and desired ride height. Take off the wheel and support the the control arm so that the damper and spring are compressed and you should be able to see how much travel you have before bump stops or coil bind.

Bilstein B16 PSS10 are installed...here is where I landed on ride height and track alignment specs

- Lowered 26mm Front / 10mm Rear; Rake 1/8”
- Camber: -3.55(F); -2.88 (R)
- Caster: 5.17(L); 5.41(R)
- Total Toe: .06 (F); .18(R)
- Corner Balance: Left 51.5%; Rear 45.1%; Cross 50.1%

Looks good except your rear camber seems high, I think -2.2 would be a good match for your front camber, if you want your car to response quicker, front toe would be better to be 0 or negative (as most alignment sheets shows toe out as negative)

Agreed!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Just measured mine and it’s 25.5” with 275/35R18 (inch smaller than OE), is that too low?

On the street you are going to be hating life. I ran mine at that ride height the last time I was at ZDAYZ. I was on Toyo 295 30 18 square. My camber was -3.3 front and -2.2 rear. The handling was spot on. Turn in was quick and she was nimble. The down side is there are some sharp turns with quick rises and I would bottom out on them. When got home I had two rivets left on my Zspeed undertray and there was a small hole was forming on the undertray. Conversely getting in an out of parking areas and gas stations were a pain. If she is 80% track car go for it. I am looking at 26 up front and 26.5 rear.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

time for an air cup system for the parking area part

I agree with my esteemed colleague Hotrodz. That low and your chassis will be limiting your suspension from doing it's job and it will be a pain on the street.

This would be nice

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAQYXNTn...d=myg48eavt9gy

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAQYXNTn...d=7u9e3wngy9pv

Oh this is the exact camber setting I have and she is 99% for track except driving back and forth to the track. Was trying to see if raising it higher (to your suggestion 26”) will benefit the handling performance on the track. Also need to figure out the suspension travel issue if any.

About 2" drop is maximum for limiting issues. If you don't have a splitter then a 1 to 1.5" drop is plenty. With a splitter that is 3" plus beyond the front bumper you want to get as low as possible to maximize downforce. There is a reason that pro racing has ride height requirements.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You never want to go so low that you scrape. When you scrape, you unload the tires and suspension.

^Yes!
And sorry, I was trying to say closer to OEM is more beneficial. But vq37818 explained it perfectly :tiphat:

As far as lowering the z goes, being that I’m a big idiot, I like to keep sh!t as dumbed down and simple as possible, ergo a one inch drop (Or just a hair lower), was optimal back when wifey and I had our nismo.

With stock gen 1 nismo aero at Daytona on the front straight, at around 130+ the car got scary light at stock height, with just a one inch (ish) drop, it was stable to 145 ish and the lift above the was less dramatic/scary.

I don’t remember all our alignment settings off the top of my head but I do remember the we ran -2.2 camber up front and -1.6 (or was it -1.8) out back. Like rusty and others said, there is a lot of dynamic negative camber gain so no need to run a ton of static neg camber out back.

Our toe was set 0 front and slight toe in in the rear, that gives a momentary toe out condition from weight transfer when braking hard off a straight going into a turn so we found it helped with turn in.

This was all on aggressive street tires, NOT r comps. With dedicated track tires, we would have been more aggressive with the - camber settings and possibly even run very slight toe out up front.

Our car was set up as a true dual use car that could be at home street or track so of course there were alignment setting compromises etc.

Edit: just remembered, we had caster set at 6.