Snapped top hat of fuel basket
 

Alrighty. So I have tried to read up on this but no one seems to have posted about it yet.

***i know everyone is going to start forcing the CJM return argument on me.. But I don't have that much money!**

I was driving at the FIRM in Starke a couple of months ago and through turn 2 I felt like my fuel starvation might have worsened.. No idea how but I noticed my fuel meter wasn't working at all..

One month later I'm at VIR. Got some hot laps in and boom. Even worse.. Drive out into the pits and had to do hard left turn circles to correct myself. Now Zdayz comes around this past week and I fuel starve on the Dragon with moderate driving on fairly worn tires. Try to correct but nothing. Waited a couple of hours for someone to rescue me and we tried to diagnose it. Uh oh. I don't hear my fuel pump. Bummer. We stuck it on a trailer at 10pm and drove back to the village. Spoke to Z1 in the morning and they brought a Walbro with them. Few hours later I got fuel pump access.. Oh no what's this? The bottom of the basket was dangling by the wires and the power was yanked off. Floater and spring from one of the posts flew out somewhere in the tank. Car was put back on the trailer and driven home 9 hours away

Today I got my new basket assembly from a 2016 on ebay and put the Walbro in it.

Here we go into dilemma #2. Nissan has the decency to change the connector. What the heII is wrong with these people? Can we just save the changes to the exterior and not important connections? So now since this is my only car and I've been borrowing a friend's car for the last few days I cut the connector out of the old one and JB welded that ish into the new one. There is no load on this part of the top hat so I have no worries of it coming undone.

I have a half tank that I will be putting into the car in a couple of weeks and I will buy a CJM pump into this car as soon as I could... But I haven't seen this yet at all on the forum... So whether I'm the first or not... Here's my story

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4974a8c645.jpg

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New plugs vs. Old crimp lock connectors

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b43199b01f.jpg

I have heard of them breaking before. They really are a crummy design.

The newer ones have the spring on each side which should hopefully prevent breaking again.

I see now.. I thought I lost that tension spring in the tank. Guess they learned a little bit but regardless this thing is fragile. Awful design

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Heads up, normal JB Weld isnt fuel safe technically. It will get soft, eventually peel away. You can probably get some time out of it though.

I noticed that after applying it on the rods temporarily. I plastic welded the seams from the inside

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Just FYI you can actually order those connectors through Nissan. I have a friend at a Nissan dealer and he can get me those connectors for free. He even let me borrow the pin disconnect tool. I know it's a little late for that information, but just in case you need it next time.

Do you have the part numbers ?

Sure do. All you have to do is look through here and figure out what matches your connector. It has all of the newer model connectors. They come in pairs if you order them individually.

https://srs20assets.service-solution...-48817_HRK.pdf

Thanks

https://techmate.service-solutions.c...ages/Home.aspx

This is the website you can order it from. I'm not sure if you have to be a "tech" but I was told I could order them from here.

I have the same first problem as you....the rods broke in the assembly so now its just floating and dangling by the wires. Is there any other fix for this besides buying a new assembly?

Seems like this is beginning to become an issues among z35.

Yep I think this happened to me today as well.

Sorry to hear that man.

Sucks but i'll get over it.
Gonna see if there can be a fix rather than buy new. I am thinking there is a washer mod somewhere in there.

5 track days at the firm equals a cjm RRP

You'll need a new assembly or just buy a cjm road race pump.

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The RRP replaces the drivers side unit. If you broke the OEM fuel pump hanger you will need something different. Phunk, sounds like there is a need for a new product!

I snapped one of the rods off on mine a couple of years ago. I was able to fix it but I'm not satisfied with it. I thought about buying the twin pump assembly for that side but I don't think it's available anymore.

I am already on it. Perfect opportunity to get a product in here that compliments the existing line. I have a scan done and CNC is already setup right now to cut pump tops while its making a large batch of twin pumps. Im going to use 3-4 of the bricks to make prototype billet top replacements for stock pump module.

I just have to decide if I want to make replacement rods also, or have people cut the stock rods from the plastic top and insert them into the billet top... With that decision made I can wrap up the CAD

Snapped top hat of fuel basket
 

I should have known you were working on something lol. I need to buy fuel stuff from you but the more you keep talking about these future products, the more I want to wait so I can get them.

If you need someone to test it out let me know. I'll be a Guinea pig.

I have the new S1 & S1-S kits all done, and even got inventory of the new hoses etc. The only reason I havent posted threads for the new kits yet or updated the website is that my filter manufacturer ran dry of the new filters I am using. Once the inventory batch of filters get here, its go time. Ive got a few of the new kits shipped out last week to people that were on my tail about it and didnt want to wait, I had a few of the filters available to take care of them with.

I also installed one locally and got dozens of pictures to put together a real nice installation PDF with.

Depending on how soon those are completed I could toss one in with my RRP. Work hasn't given me a free weekend yet to tackle that install. Being off for Zdayz cost me on the backend...

When and how much?

I will cut rods out.

right when i thought i was done spending

Well like I said Phunk. I'll be ordering pretty much a whole fuel system for you as soon as you tell me what to buy lol. I'll be happy to throw in a new pump top as well and test it out.

I think we are looking at something in the $150 - 175 range.

It will probably end up being really popular now that I think of it, because my 6-pin connector also accepts 12AWG wiring, and if you really want to cram it, it will take 10AWG.

Considering how brown and toasty all the plastic is around the terminals in the stock hat from running my Aeromotive and then 450 for a few years, the factory terminals through the hat are obviously not beefy enough for these large pumps.

Ill see if I can get a picture posted tomorrow.

Good price.

Definitely better than a new assembly and the actual pump isn't what is going out.
Question; after looking at the rods upon removal of my pump assembly, how are the rods going to be held in? They are pressed into the plastic and inside the plastic there is a groove to catch the little raised lip on the rod. That may work in plastic, but I don't think that will work too well in the aluminum. Maybe a small 4-40 set screw to cram into the rod or a small slot on one side for snap ring to snap into?

Thanks for the work.

J

1. Elmo370z

Snapped top hat of fuel basket
 

2. Dragonbreath

For real. I'll send you money as soon as you start accepting lol.

3.Justice

A set screw is what I currently had in mind. I will settle on the solution better tomorrow. Im going to use my heat gun to melt the stock rods out and then draw them into cad and see what i come up with. Some sort of set screw or cam type solution, or maybe a cir-clip, etc. It is easier to visualize once I have it in CAD. I havent actually held one of these removed from the plastic top myself yet... tomorrow.

Long day.. just had to wrap up a driveshaft and tuneup in a IS300 then changed the fuel filter in a 880rwhp 350z, time to head home... tomorrow I will be working in the CNC all day so I am hoping to knock out some prototypes.

1. Elmo370
2.justice
3. Dragonbreath

I wasn't able to cut it yesterday but I did finish a design I think will work. At the race track today but might cut tomorrow.

After realizing I couldn't borrow my daughter’s car any longer I decided to try and put the pump assembly back together. What I did may not be a permanent fix, but it will hold for a while. This fix of mine relegated me of my only option later(if it does fail) would be to purchase Phunk’s machined top hat.
After putting it all back together my way, the lights came on and I thought of a cheap alternative to anyone who may not want to buy the top hat or needs their baby right now. I am not trying to steal thunder or hurt Phunk’s profit margins, but I believe the option I describe will be a permanent fix and should only cost about $10 to $15 to fix. All items should hopefully be found at local hardware or auto store.
What you will need.

All materials should be stainless
(2) 1ft. pieces of 8-32 all thread
(2) 8-32 cap or acorn nuts.
(6-8) 8-32 thin hex nuts.
(4) thin washers
One tube of fuel safe gasket sealer or JB weld.
1/8" drill

In this description, there are a few unknowns which you guys and gals will be able to be figured out easily.

1. Screw cap nut onto one end. May use a jam nut to lock onto all thread, or just cram the hell out of it. (unkown) Will the cap nut interfere with bottom housing of assembly? If so, may need to grind a bit of nut away for clearance.
http://www.the370z.com/members/justi...3-1st-step.jpg
2. Slide all thread through lower pump housing with cap nut on bottom. Place two nuts on to other end followed by washer and adjust length to mimic original rod height considering plastic that broke off. Do not forget black spacer and spring on appropriate side prior to placing nuts and washer.
http://www.the370z.com/members/justi...2nd-step-1.jpg
3. Using 1/8” drill, drill the top hat through the stand offs keeping as centered as possible. Using a 1/8” thread will allow the all thread to engage and help seal tank.
http://www.the370z.com/members/justi...3rd-step-1.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/justi...3rd-step-2.jpg
4. Using hair dryer, heat up the plastic to soften it. This will prevent cracking while assembling. Just above the nuts or in hole in standoff add sealant or jbweld to help seal tank. Screw the all thread through the hole until the standoff bottoms out on the washer. Adjust to approximate height of original.
5. Place washer and nut on top and tighten.(may also add a lock washer between washer and nut for peice of mind)
http://www.the370z.com/members/justi...2917-fianl.jpg
6. Clean all excess sealant from inside and outside of tank area on top hat. Allow to dry and place back in tank.

I don’t know if the top nut and washer will interfere with the flange that holds the pump down. These are things I didn’t measure, because I wasn’t thinking of a better fix when I had it out. Doh!

If someone out there wants to try this fix, I would take those measurements prior to doing all of this.

I do believe this is a permanent fix, because it would take a lot to rip the all thread from the top hat. (it won’t happen) There may be a little trouble trying to compress it in the tank, due to all thread catching the bottom assembly as it slides through the hole. Other than that I don’t know why this would not work.

Let me know what you think and if I missed anything.
If you guys want answer the unknows, I will make a better write up and place it in DIY.
This could also be a quicker kit Phunk could machine for maybe $40-$50. Would be and extremely cheap fix either way.


Pump assembly from Nissan $450
Pump assembly from Ebay $425
Top hat from Phunk $150 - $175
Phunks Justice fix $40-$50 kit.(assumed)
DIY for $10 - $15

Your call!

Now for how I fixed mine. (Images below) I am a bit ashamed, but hey it got my baby on the road and it may last a while.

1. Remove piece of broken stand off from rod.
2. With a dryer warm up top hat standoff.
3. With something backing and protecting top of top hat, tap rod into standoff of top hat. There should be a hole there that extends to flange of top hat.
I had to tap pretty hard. Allow to cool. I left it for a few hours. At 1st the rod was being pushed out by the plastic because it was so tight, but then it seamed to stop moving. There is a pretty sharp little barb on end of the rod that snaps into a groove into original hole and I think that barb sank into the plastic pretty well. I tried, using pretty strong force, to remove the rod and I was unable. (Disclaimer-I am not Hercules)
4. Reassemble and place back in tank. This is by no means a recommended fix, but if it brakes and you really need it, it should take about 2-3 hours. If you don't want to wait for cooling and just want to get it back in tank then maybe 1.5 hours. Cost here is only time. When I placed it in the tank, it still had about 3/8" of compression on spring so I know it is on bottom of tank. If you are at the track or somewhere you have no way of getting home, 10 and 8 mm sockets phillips screw drivers and you can be back on the road in no time at zero cost.
http://www.the370z.com/members/justi...919-tophat.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/justi...92918-rods.jpg
Just some advice, tow trucks suck.

moving along here, should be available in the not too distant future...

Allow me to nutswing for a moment. That is beautiful.

Beat me to it. CJ, you make some real pretty products.