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-   -   To do List. (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/110260-do-list.html)

03threefiftyz 01-11-2016 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSS138 (Post 3385749)
Will agree on the safety thing, I am in the middle of it right now. You can't just "install a harness/rollbar" and kablam you are safe. Many many of the "safety" setups I see are not safe at all. They would be much better off just sticking with OEM 3-point and air bags. Modern cars are very safe. Much more-so than some of the dumb-sh1t things I see like 4 point harnesses, harness but no hans, etc. It is very expensive to do a real safety upgrade on a street car, figure your seats(400-1000 each), hans (400), 4 or 6 point cage(3+ grand if its done right), the actual harnesses(2-300),helmet(4-600), and they all need to be done at the same time. Otherwise probably just best buying a good helmet and sticking with air bags.

All of your prices are very much on the low side. Don't forget fire suppression,etc...

GSS138 01-11-2016 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz (Post 3385799)
All of your prices are very much on the low side. Don't forget fire suppression,etc...

Fortunately Corner 3's contingency program is pretty damn good lol. But yeah figure in the neighborhood of 10K+. You can't just buy a $900 bolt in bar, a seat from Ebay, and a Takata 4 point harness of death and expect it to outperform the entire OEM safety system that has been designed and tested with crash test dummies.

Hotrodz 01-11-2016 02:13 PM

I'm going through this process right now and I won't go to the track until I have all the pieces. There is nothing wrong with a bolt in roll bar...a seat, brackets, side mounts, harness and the hardware is about $1,600 (non ebay LOL). A helmet, hans and supporting hardware is another $1,200 to $1,500. The rest is chump change compared to getting to this point and keeping the car as a sometime street car.

GSS138 01-11-2016 02:49 PM

I disagree-Most boltins are terrible and probably more dangerous than OEM. I would refer you to the diagram Ban25 posted earlier, it's quite good. Honestly answer it to yourself before you install that stuff and figure out what you need. I can't say if your particular boltin is any good or not, but I don't know of a single decent one for the 370 at this point. There is one guy out here that has a weldin half cage for the 350 and it costs 2000+ but it is legit.

I could probably get him to login here and answer some questions.

03threefiftyz 01-11-2016 05:23 PM

I went to the most reputable shop I could find, after much research, and told them to keep me alive....cost was a condition, but secondary to staying upright:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1481/2...2c397a87_b.jpg

Hotrodz 01-11-2016 05:35 PM

I'm not sure there is disagreement, just as it was stated that you shouldn't buy an eBay seat nor should you not do your homework on a bolt on rollbar or welded. Just because it's welded does not make it good or better than a bolt on. My bolt on is from a reputable dealer that builds them for a lot of track cars. MAMotorsports also sales the brand I have as well. The bottom line is that each person has to decide for themselves how much research they want to do and how much they want spend to be as safe as they can above the standards set by the governing bodies. And not to down play the need to be safe at the track, everyone here is more likely to be seriously injured or die in a car accident on our public roads than at the track.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

ban25 01-11-2016 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3386072)
I'm not sure there is disagreement, just as it was stated that you shouldn't buy an eBay seat nor should you not do your homework on a bolt on rollbar or welded. Just because it's welded does not make it good or better than a bolt on. My bolt on is from a reputable dealer that builds them for a lot of track cars. MAMotorsports also sales the brand I have as well. The bottom line is that each person has to decide for themselves how much research they want to do and how much they want spend to be as safe as they can above the standards set by the governing bodies. And not to down play the need to be safe at the track, everyone here is more likely to be seriously injured or die in a car accident on our public roads than at the track.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

The main point I want to get across, and the reason why I point out the flowchart, is that safety is a system and it has to be treated as such. Replacing or installing only a single component could actually make the car *less* safe than the default OEM configuration.

Installing an aftermarket seat will remove the side-airbag. If you don't have a Halo seat, this is a potentially big safety issue. Installing a 6-point harness with no HANS means severe risk of basilar skull fracture in even a low-speed accident.

Ivo Tuchi died last month at Buttonwillow in a fully caged M3. Side impact into a corner station. He did not have a head/neck restraint, nor a containment seat:

Fatality at Buttonwillow

Hotrodz 01-11-2016 07:45 PM

:iagree:Point made and understood...I'm apologize if you thought I was in disagreement!

Zauskycop 01-11-2016 07:51 PM

Im not quite sure the OP TRULY mean road racing, or if he just meant track days...

Tracy Ramsey

GSS138 01-11-2016 08:56 PM

That's sort of the whole point though, if you are tracking a street car, just stay OEM, it is most likely better than anything you can buy for <10K.

Elmo370z 07-06-2016 05:46 PM

Update. Long tube headers, CBE, Intakes, Ati damper, Corbeau A-2 seats, Brake ducts, Carbtech 10/8, oem slotted rotors, RRp, CJm billet top hat, Abs/ebd switch, motul fluids, SS brake lines, ss clutch line, RE-11. Should be done until i can get faster and more comfortable on the track


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