To do List.
 

Im going to try and get into some road racing this year pending how much much cash flow i can produce ($700 million lotto) . Sebring and homestead mainly.

If we can, lets keep it practical lol, I don't have Forced induction money.Brake ducting, brake pads ( thinking C.tech brakes on stock rotors 10/8.) CJM road race pump, Exedy cermetallic stage 2 clutch with z1 csc. I already have motul diff, PS, Tranny, 5.1 brake fluid. Feel free to chime in. I know i could do without the clutch and csc upgrade, but i don't want to be calling a tow truck home.

Current set up is, 34 row oil cooler, long tubes,cbe, intakes and a tune.

Take a look at this post for a summary of what you'll want to do as you start getting onto the track.

Don't bother with the clutch or CSC at first. Eventually you will want to add an insulated clutch line and/or replace the CSC entirely (see z1motorsport's CSC removal kit), but this is not going to be an issue at first so long as you have high quality fluid. Even if you do boil the clutch fluid, you can always pump the clutch pedal back up, so you won't be stranded.

Carbotech brake pads will work well, though I recommend upgrading the fluid in both the brakes and the clutch to at least Motul RBF 600, but ideally Castrol SRF. With RBF 600, you'll have to bleed it on a regular basis, whereas SRF can be left in and basically forgotten for an entire season. With 5.1, you might boil it.

Next you'll want to upgrade your tires. It's great that you already have the oil cooler, that's going to keep you out on the track and save you from a big headache with limp mode!

The min is Motul 600 brake fluid. Wrap insulation around your clutch line down by the header. Good tires. Brake cooling ducts. About $300 from Stillen. If you can, a RRP from phunk. 10/8 brake pads. and Enjoy yourself. :driving: :D

Don't forget the race helmet among your recommendation Rusty.:tup::driving:

:iagree: Tires, brake pads, and Motul 600 or better in brakes and clutch. Go ahead and wrap the clutch line with some insulation while your under there. Top off your gas tank after 1-2 sessions. Forced Induction would not be your friend on the twisties.

One thing many people seem to put off, that I have always felt helps a good amount on track are some nice seats and harness's, as it helps you relax. When you are not fighting with the car to stay planted in your seat you can focus on what the car is doing much easier.

:tup:

GT5 Touring

On my wish list for this year...:p

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Yes true, but that an extra grand lol i don't have in my budget right now. When i was at sebring and homestead this year in my friends vette, he kept having to re-adjusted.

Thanks everyone for the input

I have re-11's all the way around

Me needing this everytime my wife beats me up and nag at me if I get caught buying car parts again for my Z.

100% :iagree:

Invest on protecting yourself first.

It's important to remember that you cannot install a safety system piecemeal. Install a 6-point harness without a welded cage/half-cage == it may not hold you in an accident. 6-point harness without an appropriate neck restraint (HANS/Necksgen/Hybrid) == serious injury or death even at low speeds. 4-point harness without ASM == death. Aftermarket seats without Halos/containment and center net/window nets == no side-airbag and serious injury or death.

Here's a helpful thread for when you decide to tackle your safety system:

HPDE safety gear flow chart, comment please !!

Will agree on the safety thing, I am in the middle of it right now. You can't just "install a harness/rollbar" and kablam you are safe. Many many of the "safety" setups I see are not safe at all. They would be much better off just sticking with OEM 3-point and air bags. Modern cars are very safe. Much more-so than some of the dumb-sh1t things I see like 4 point harnesses, harness but no hans, etc. It is very expensive to do a real safety upgrade on a street car, figure your seats(400-1000 each), hans (400), 4 or 6 point cage(3+ grand if its done right), the actual harnesses(2-300),helmet(4-600), and they all need to be done at the same time. Otherwise probably just best buying a good helmet and sticking with air bags.

All of your prices are very much on the low side. Don't forget fire suppression,etc...

Fortunately Corner 3's contingency program is pretty damn good lol. But yeah figure in the neighborhood of 10K+. You can't just buy a $900 bolt in bar, a seat from Ebay, and a Takata 4 point harness of death and expect it to outperform the entire OEM safety system that has been designed and tested with crash test dummies.

I'm going through this process right now and I won't go to the track until I have all the pieces. There is nothing wrong with a bolt in roll bar...a seat, brackets, side mounts, harness and the hardware is about $1,600 (non ebay LOL). A helmet, hans and supporting hardware is another $1,200 to $1,500. The rest is chump change compared to getting to this point and keeping the car as a sometime street car.

I disagree-Most boltins are terrible and probably more dangerous than OEM. I would refer you to the diagram Ban25 posted earlier, it's quite good. Honestly answer it to yourself before you install that stuff and figure out what you need. I can't say if your particular boltin is any good or not, but I don't know of a single decent one for the 370 at this point. There is one guy out here that has a weldin half cage for the 350 and it costs 2000+ but it is legit.

I could probably get him to login here and answer some questions.

I went to the most reputable shop I could find, after much research, and told them to keep me alive....cost was a condition, but secondary to staying upright:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1481/2...2c397a87_b.jpg

I'm not sure there is disagreement, just as it was stated that you shouldn't buy an eBay seat nor should you not do your homework on a bolt on rollbar or welded. Just because it's welded does not make it good or better than a bolt on. My bolt on is from a reputable dealer that builds them for a lot of track cars. MAMotorsports also sales the brand I have as well. The bottom line is that each person has to decide for themselves how much research they want to do and how much they want spend to be as safe as they can above the standards set by the governing bodies. And not to down play the need to be safe at the track, everyone here is more likely to be seriously injured or die in a car accident on our public roads than at the track.

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The main point I want to get across, and the reason why I point out the flowchart, is that safety is a system and it has to be treated as such. Replacing or installing only a single component could actually make the car *less* safe than the default OEM configuration.

Installing an aftermarket seat will remove the side-airbag. If you don't have a Halo seat, this is a potentially big safety issue. Installing a 6-point harness with no HANS means severe risk of basilar skull fracture in even a low-speed accident.

Ivo Tuchi died last month at Buttonwillow in a fully caged M3. Side impact into a corner station. He did not have a head/neck restraint, nor a containment seat:

Fatality at Buttonwillow

:iagree:Point made and understood...I'm apologize if you thought I was in disagreement!

Im not quite sure the OP TRULY mean road racing, or if he just meant track days...

Tracy Ramsey

That's sort of the whole point though, if you are tracking a street car, just stay OEM, it is most likely better than anything you can buy for <10K.

Update. Long tube headers, CBE, Intakes, Ati damper, Corbeau A-2 seats, Brake ducts, Carbtech 10/8, oem slotted rotors, RRp, CJm billet top hat, Abs/ebd switch, motul fluids, SS brake lines, ss clutch line, RE-11. Should be done until i can get faster and more comfortable on the track