1/4 mile help. Want 11's
 

Like the title says, I want to run 11's in the 1/4 mile. I have a Nismo with:

BP turbo kit, so4 tires, stock suspension at stock height, solid rear diff mounts, specialty Z clutch pack.

I don't want to spend more $$, just work with what I have. I know I need more seat time for one. Freeking car is hell launching with vdc off. I spin and hop all over!

YzGyz

Better tires and a good launch and you should get 11s no problem.

Whats your best time right now?

money will always be spent and you don't have the grip to get off the line with boost.

get drag radials.
still spinning?
go with 18s and more meat drag radials.
still spinning?
350z base rear calipers 15" wheels and 28" dia slicks.

:iagree:

still spinning?
7AT final drive ratio? 3.357:1

after all, if you can´t put the power down, it´s not doing you any good anyway.

he's manual I would assume. BP wont change their kit to fit the 7AT.

He is saying swap to the AT final drive to help put the power down. Iv thought about doing this but not sure if it would be worth it

yeaaaaaa misread that lol

I was in a meeting but still trying to keep up :wtf2:

Would help to know current times, but suspension could really help put the power down.

do you have a slip from your last best run?

I have some slips in my build thread. They are poop times. I plan to go to the 1/4 mile again tomorrow. I was thinking of drags but it's just not worth it since my car is a DD. I would have to buy another set of rims. That's $$ I really don't have. I started school again so I'm kinda broke. I was hoping there are simple things that I can do to get better times.

time slips here. I had lat off on some of those runs because it was just a horrible launch.
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-turn-13.html

YzGyz

Driver mod...

BETTER TIRES for starters...your going to need ATLEAST a decent 60ft to hit 11.xx.... what is your current TRAP?

Get the rear end aligned by someone who has experience doing alignments for tractiin on high hp cars. Also noticed you said you wheel hop like crazy. Continual wheel hop will kill your tranny, might want to keep that in mind.

should be no problem with a SC or turbo
I go 12.34 all motor with bolt ons.
Z

Your car is a AT, definitely a different ball game.

I want 8's lol :( Need awd

Do you have any plans for rear end / axle upgrades?

Are they necessary? From what I understand if you know how to launch you should never break an axle and I've always been under the knowledgeable assumption that the trans/rear end can hold down 1000whp

What do you mean "if you know how to launch you should never break an axle"? I am not sure about the trans but a hard launch with 1000whp is definitely going to break something. I broke a axle on a prepped surface with drag radials at around 500whp

Eventually going to look at getting a pair from Driveshaftshop.com The Driveshaft Shop | 370Z / G37 - Nissan - Import Axles

I am still on original axles.

Things that break axles:

single unsprung puck style clutches
launching without taking up the backlash in the drivetrain (preloading)
wheel hop

The 3.3 final drive will definitely help. To not have to shift into 5th or hitting the rev limiter in 4th before getting a chance is a big deal. the final drive will be one my next changes before going back to the track.

replace all the suspension bushings in the rear with delrin, urethane, and/or spherical bearings where possible. This is my next change. I just did it in my Mustang (yes the new ones are IRS) and it made a world of difference. Keeping those tires pointing as straight as possible helps a lot.

Dont lower the car too much, it screws up the control arm angles and it will camber too hard when it squats.

Align the car to as close to 0 camber as you can bear to look at.

Replace suspension cradle and differential bushings with solid/urethane type to both reduce rear steering and reduce wheelhop

Yes I get wheel hop. I will have to try and not drop the clutch as fast or smash the gas. I don't plan to do any other major upgrades to my car. As stated before, I have school to pay for. I was just hoping there were some simple things to do to help get better times. I will get better tires after these S04 wear out. As for tire align, I can ask Mr Bergenholz when b I can. Catch him at the shop.

YzGyz

rear camber set at 0 & M/T drag radials...my car is stock & cut's a 1.95 60'.
gotta heat up tires well & practice launching...some tracks put some vht down after burn out;wider tires aren't always better & you probably know that rear wheels camber in at launch. Good Luck! i don't have the horses yet to have traction issues.

If you don't have rear chamber arms then you have no alignment possibilities. You'll need at minimum $300 worth of arms to get any improvement. A set of coilovers and apparently Ron can make almost anything hook.

I've also been talking to Johnny about ecutek. It has full traction control. I'll be switching when the weather gets better.

Good thing I setup car exactly to what you mentioned :)

So now I need to research camber arms and see if I can swing it. I might not be able to swing the $$ or have the time to install them till it gets cold again..

I definitely can't afford coils.

YzGyz

I gave up going for a time lol. Its all about the trap speeds for me.

Also if someone can figure out how to make these cars want to go from 1st to 2nd while launching im all ears. That is the only shift i have to let off on, every other shift is done at WOT all the way down the track. That 1-2 kills me everytime.

My best trap was 124 at around 13 seconds. haha. To be fair my car is very low and running much to much negative camber in the back to get a half decent launch, but then she really does move like a rocket once I hit second.

Not necessarily. My alignment guy got me to -2.24 and the traction gain was noticeable. That said he recommended me get camber arms and bring it back so he could go farther with it (I have the arms now just not installed and realigned) YzGuyz if you can go ahead and get the camber arms, if not then spend $60 on "big power" rear alignment. This is all based on you currently having low budget

-2.2 is just plain terrible for drag racing

I will probably just holdout on new toys fir a little while. I only had the car back up and running a few K miles and need her to DD from work and school. Maybe, next year of I save my $ right.

The census says I need new rear alignment arms, and coilover if I can swing it. New tires would help too. I might have to ask Ron on what he thinks are good for split duty.

Keep the good info coming. Thanks to all poster for dropping their 2c.

YzGyz

RE-11s

On the Stang forum, people are launchin in 2nd.. bad idea?

YzGyz

It could be harder on some components, especially the clutch... but if it works out for you, I cannot imagine anything terribly inherently wrong with doing so. I mean, I am trying to think of a reason not to, and I am coming up blank. If it doesnt burn the clutch too terribly bad, I guess why not.

Wasn't there some dude with a boosted black nismo that fried how clutch a year or two ago launching in 2nd?

I think so. I can't recall. I just remember a post on it. I don't thing I win do a launch in 2nd though..

YzGyz

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psmz0jnmyg.jpg

Total fail again. I was only able to get in two runs. A C6 Zo6 rear ended a 2015 Stang GT while waiting for his turn to run. I'm not sure how that happened but it closed the track down.

Here is the video of the first run at 105 mph. I had let off at the end because I was sure I was going to break into the 12's and then get kicked off for no helmet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GxL...ature=youtu.be

YzGyz

Check your camber eccentric bolts yourself & make sure they look like these pictured (Max about -1.7* not lowered) aftermarket arms will get you 0, also: if you do it yourself like I did/ck your toe;it will go way + in rear.....you want a little +rear toe//not 0 or -, Azz end will dance around, also heat them tires up good! They will bite if you get them hot & try to drive around water trap....I'd love to try and launch it for you; cause I'm stock.Attachment 107252Attachment 107253Attachment 107254Attachment 107255Attachment 107256
Gotta get that 60' time down or you wasting time.


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My point, which you kinda pointed out, is you need as close to zero chamber as possible to get it to 'hook'. You can't achieve that without swapping the rear components. Maxing out the rear suspension will help some but it's not going to get you there.

Yep- he mentioned about not spending any more money on it.
I'm done at the track till I get an LSD diff. Mine is open;notice the rubber on rt side is more than left. Also getting the SPL camber arms.


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The 60's will need to get below 2.0 to run 11's (unless you have big time power to make up for it). It might be worth getting one of those phone apps and practicing your launch and 1-2 shift in the middle of nowhere at night. Thats where most the driving skill is required: the 60' and the 1-2 shift. After that the rest of the run is a breeze by comparison.