To aggressive?? Alignment

[synolimit]

I forgot about caster adding to camber or something in a turn so I might be kinda high. I got front spl arms on and aligned today but my casters way up at 6.2/6.3 from mid to low 5's I think when I was oem. I could of backed camber down some but I rub and these aren't the easiest to adjust so I let the guy leave it.

I can also never remember toe. I was on a hunter and I though + was toe in and - was toe out. But this Hunter was a little pic next to the "total toe" which you can see I'm wrong.

Idk it feels ok but I have to track test it first I guess.






Hunter.com says I'm right though...

[DR_]

That caster is actually pretty mild for a track setup.

[synolimit]

Good to know.

[cjwsrt6]

Looks good to me as well, I went to -2.0 rear camber and the car was pushing some so I think I'll back it down to -1.7 like you've got and try that

[03threefiftyz]

More rear camber.

[synolimit]

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz

More rear camber.

Not yet haha. I'm still on the 12k's.

[GSS138]

I'm 11k rear and running -2.1, it holds/performs well but tire wear/temps suggests I should run a little less.

[synolimit]

Originally Posted by GSS138

I'm 11k rear and running -2.1, it holds/performs well but tire wear/temps suggests I should run a little less.

What's your weight? True type?? I'm like 3056 but 57/43 ratio. I can't touch the throttle without spinning even in 3rd. Rear cage is next to add some weight back there and probably drop down to 8k. New apr gtc-250 is on the way so that should help too.

[GSS138]

I had similar issues- car was kill-you-loose/snap over-steer at really weird times, but mainly on the mid speed/50-60 mph exits. It held fine oddly enough in the high speed sweepers 80+.

I am probably around 3100 lbs although I haven't weighed it, I have trunk pulled completely, some sound deadening removed and as much plastic crap pulled as possible, rear is definitely lighter though. My spec is pretty limiting in what you are allowed to remove etc.

I started 12K+ rear sway full soft. Car tried to kill me.
11k Rear + rear sway full soft. Car tried to kill me.
11K + no rear sway. Car is a beast. Feels very well balanced and neutral can make it understeer or oversteer, am very happy w it currently.

Try disconnecting a rear endlink. If you like it, just remove it if you are allowed. Otherwise, I would probably drop the rear rate to about 9K if I had to run any sway bar at all. I am on OEM pickup points shock/bucket spring. No aero currently just OEM spoiler.

[synolimit]

O see I'm on a 12k true type!!!

As for rules I'm going XP or unlimited. Getting my azz handed to me but I want my car to be the best it can be, no rules .

[GSS138]

12K true type seems a bit stiff to me(especially with bar) unless you have some aero to tame it, but for autoX I know they tend to spring a lot different than the road course guys. Makes sense, we have bumps and hills to deal with and require different things. A buddy of mine whom puts in some fast times at the tracks we go to runs 11K true types with OEM bar, but he gets pretty drifty on the sweepers and has been contemplating removing rear bar as well. Personally, I don't think I will ever put the rear bar back in until I move into aero or make some other major change on the car. A different friend(clintfocus here on the forums) likes to use the G35 bar.

[synolimit]

Everyones told me its to stiff. I will be going down. I'm waiting on my GTC-250 wing to show up and I do have a front splitter and canards. No plans on a diffuser yet. After it gets here I might try it out, then try no bar, then send in for revalve and 8k's.

[j-rho]

It's only "too stiff" if softening makes the car faster with everything else constant.

Spring rate by itself doesn't tell you much - ride frequency is a more useful and universal number because it takes into consideration unsprung corner weight and the motion ratio of the spring. To start to make a guess how a car handles, you also need to know the front ride frequency for a comparison.

Camber looks ok for a dual purpose street/race car but for more optimal cornering I'd add .5-1 degree additional negative all around. Depends on what's suggested by your tire maker too - some (like bias-ply slicks) prescribe smaller amounts of negative camber for optimal performance.

[synolimit]

03threefitfy had me at 2.1F 2.75R I believe

[synolimit]

I do notice one thing I believe to be the sways fault, after backing out of my driveway and turn to give it gas my traction light comes on and one wheels spins out a little at 1mph. I'm on a slight incline so I'm guessing the sway isn't letting the one wheel touch the ground all the way and its pulled up when it should be down. Will I ever experience this on a track? No, not unless it's a rally course. But it might help.

On another note I did gun it hard going to work today on an on ramp. The car did have a nice squat when I puched it and it gripped and went. Can't wait for the wing and cage!!