SPL rear mid links spring buckets and Swift 10k springs
 

Sold!!!

i decided to do true type coilovers so i will no longer need spring buckets. i bought these used off a guy here and they are in perfect working order!! you need these for full toe adjustment, replace the OEM bucket with soft rubber bushings and you need these to use a real rear spring! a lot of oem type coilovers out there dont use Swift, just some big fat spring they add to their kits. this will allow you to run any 2.5" spring you want. these also allow you to lower or raise the rear of the car 3".

PLEASE READ...at the moment they are on the car and have been for about 1000 miles. they guy i bought them off of put one side on and then took them back off and i cant remember why. they will remain on the car till my 2 way coils show up. so please be patient if you want them and you pay now. give me a week or so till mine show up because i have nothing to put on and replace with yet.

asking $650 which is what i paid for both the mid links and the springs.


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd28f3760.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps99c42f4a.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pscb60d9ba.jpg

Any idea how hard/is it possible to convert these from sphericals to poly bushings? Stupid SCCA rules don't allow sphericals in street prepared classes for autocross.

Same tie rod end like camber and toe arms. So you'd have to just replace with a joint more I guess. Won't be easy to source unless you make it.

the little racing linear vs swift specR's

Bump

bump

bump

bump

Bump

Do you want your spring buckets back?

Lol no why?

Bump

Bump.

bump

Bump

Bump for a great product

Thank you!

Bump

bump

Someone needs theses

Can't believe this is still for sale...

This looks cool, I'm interested. Can you explain a bit more on what OEM parts will need to be swapped out and what else would need to be purchased if anything to get this setup going?

So far suspension wise I only have Koni Yellow dampers (not revalved so they're 1 way adjustable) and Swift springs.

Let me know what parts of my OEM and Aftermarket setup will need to changed.

I know, noob questions, but so what :P

Thanks in advance.

You just replace the OEM spring buckets the swift sits in and install these. I'd also get a lockout bolt kit so the OEM or SPC eccentric bolts don't slip your alignment.

And mid-links replace the stock ones?

They replace the stock spring buckets.


I have a set. They're legit

I have lockout kits!!!

I bet you do!

These these here: SPL PRO SUSPENSION | 09+ Nissan 370Z Z34


Replace the stock spring buckets, and the 10K Swift springs go inside them?

Yessir, because the stock springs are too big for the midlinks

Correct.

Hey DE what shocks/springs do you have? What diff did you notice when you added this setup?

You're getting a real rear spring, 100% toe control and no chance of toe slip with a lock out kit.

:iagree:

And I have nothing installed at the moment, lol. But 9k rear Swifts with the midlinks ready to be installed.

My Front and rear springs are swift spec-r, do I need to replace the fronts, I don't know what spring rate those are set at, they look black like the ones in the pic?

If I know my ride setup won't get screwed up but improved I'll get these :)

Swifts r are 10k/10.5k. I liked my setup a lot. It handled well but not enough for track duty. With koni adjustables I bet it'd of been even better.

no offense, but didnt you have issues with this setup and the used 6" spring you purchased?

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...s-springs.html

as it was said in the thread, you're supposed to use a 7" spring. did you buy a new 7" spring or no? if not, then shouldn't you tell people about that before they go and buy this? not trying to thread crap, because im honestly interested in buying this setup. but only if it comes with the CORRECT setup on a 7" spring.

No issues and no, spring length didn't matter. 1. I don't rally race and 2. To achieve a certain ride height you had to adjust the perch to get there. Adding a taller spring would just mean you would have to lower the perch more to again achieve the same ride height. With a 6" spring the car was perfect where the adjuster needed to be (right in the middle). After having it installed and aligned for the months i had it, everything tightened up and was good to go. Even with the suspension fully unloaded where I had it, (about a inch lower than stock) everything was tight and perfect.

On my car the setup would NOT of been perfect with a 7" spring because the adjuster would not be sitting right in the middle where is should of been. The adjuster would of been much lower to the ground. You can clearly see its perfect in my pics with the 6" spring with a ride height of about 1" lower than stock and equal to a swift spec R.

Everything you need...

So with 7" spring I'd have to have my adjuster (wherever it is) set 1" lower?