You'll be OK at track,,,weather has been off here & too cold for it to open.
w/27" Rubber-mine bump's the 7700rpm limiter@116mph in 4th,,,so you can play w/tire sizes & adjust.

My 285/40/18 MT ET street SS tires measure exactly 27" tall, so that sounds perfect at 7700 in 4th.

My car is not as fast as yours (yet) so I think I made the right choice with 3.69 and 7AT.

That 285/40 is a lot of tire; as I was wanting to make a few passes with my worn out 345/30/19’s- but with cold weather setting in; they gonna have to come off & I’ll bolt my base 18” Wheels back on. Here’s a screenshot of my friend Blueranger’s ~Z~ as it’s possibly the fastest A/T Z & Roadster.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b0ad02384.jpg


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Why don’t you swap them out from your 2010 diff?

If you drill out try a 7/16 “cobalt” drill bit with drilling grease to help the process.


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Well, my 2010 diff only has 32K miles on it. Wanting to keep it all together and un-molested.

What size rear Hoosiers are those?

I'm pretty sure they're 28x10.50x15

Anyone ever rebuild a factory VLSD?

Two questions:

1. Put the two c-clips in the side gears while the diff is apart? Or leave them on the stub shafts?

2. The total side gear clearance measures .005" which is in spec, but if I turn one stub shaft by hand (and hold the drive flange) the side gears and spider gears feel really notchy or ratchet like. Is this normal? The GM and Ford diffs that I have built were not like that.

The FSM says to place the C-clips in the side gears at assembly. That seems like it may make the stub shaft installation difficult.

Hopefully someone here has some prior experience....

Just put a little lube on the splines/tip ... start the splines & smack it in with a soft mallet.
Unlike the old school C-clips that are removed after removal of center pin.
Piece of cake!
:)

Thanks JC!

BTW the stub shaft threads drilled out no problem to .425" diameter.

We in business now!

Thank you

On quote#9 of this post i mentioned about removal of stub shaft's,,,as i purchased & installed a Quaife helical locker.
Jumping into the dis-assembly; i removed rear cover & pin that ran through carrier (where spider gears are)....after fighting & realizing that no way these shaft's push in & the C-clips fall off,,,,,i then went to the forum to see that they just pop out.
I wasn't working on a GM....lol

Lots of good information on this thread-but read all the way through.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f437929bec.jpg


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