Nissan 370Z Forum

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Parts for sale (Private Classifieds) (http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-private-classifieds/)
-   -   [WTB] Rear Diff Stub Shaft Short LSD drivers side (http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-private-classifieds/125075-rear-diff-stub-shaft-short-lsd-drivers-side.html)

SG4247 12-15-2017 10:51 AM

Questions: Rear Diff Stub Shaft Short LSD drivers side
 
1 Attachment(s)
It is this one I need:

https://www.z1motorsports.com/imageG...etailsHalf.jpg

Let me know please!

SG4247 12-16-2017 12:11 PM

Bumper

SG4247 12-18-2017 07:40 AM

still looking

SG4247 12-21-2017 01:19 PM

Help

SG4247 12-21-2017 09:17 PM

Help a brother out!

jchammond 12-21-2017 10:24 PM

Mine are threaded in both of my diff's

SG4247 12-22-2017 09:57 AM

Do the side flanges just pop out with a pry bar or similar?

jchammond 12-22-2017 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3716827)
Do the side flanges just pop out with a pry bar or similar?

Yep, just pop right out.

jchammond 12-22-2017 10:14 AM

Don't ask how long it took me to figure that out....lol

SG4247 12-28-2017 05:12 PM

Okay bought one from the Nissan Stealer.. $194.03 OTD.

Short VLSD driver side stub shaft 38220-JK01B does not have threads.

My 2010 VLSD diff does not have threads either. Bolt heads are on the diff side, and thread into the half shaft WHICH IS threaded.

The 2016 VLSD diff I bought to swap in, has threaded flange on the pass side. So, the long pass side flange will need the threads drilled out.

What the frick?

jchammond 12-28-2017 07:19 PM

Had a bud perform that & said it was tough.
I’ll have to go back & see what he used/as don’t let the bit get hot & begin to squeal,or the metal will get even harder.
I’ll look it up & reply.

jchammond 12-28-2017 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3717962)
Had a bud perform that & said it was tough.
I’ll have to go back & see what he used/as don’t let the bit get hot & begin to squeal,or the metal will get even harder.
I’ll look it up & reply.

Take your time & drill slow w/cobalt bit at minimum.
Use “Rapid-Tap” or equivalent cutting fluid,,,as he didn’t get holes w/3 different bits completed.....ended in up swapping out shaft.
One of yours in the stock diff should be the correct length.
My 11’ is threaded like the 13’Nismo.

SG4247 12-28-2017 08:13 PM

Arggg..!!

I thought I could drill it out with my home drill press? Now having second thoughts.

Dont want to rob the one from my 2010 diff.

jchammond 12-28-2017 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3717982)
Arggg..!!

I thought I could drill it out with my home drill press? Now having second thoughts.

Dont want to rob the one from my 2010 diff.

You should be good w/home press,
Being out of a 16'...what gear ratio is it-a 3.69 or 3.92 ?

SG4247 12-28-2017 08:35 PM

Well it is a 3.69... even though I thought the 3.92 would help more with 1/4 mile times. Just really hard to find a wreck with the 3.92.

The best part is it is like new, since its a 2016 model and it came from Summerville, SC so no snow or salt corrosion.

So.. the 2009 thru mid 2010 370Z uses threaded axles - with no threads in the stub shafts.

jchammond 12-28-2017 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3717986)
Well it is a 3.69... even though I thought the 3.92 would help more with 1/4 mile times. Just really hard to find a wreck with the 3.92.

The best part is it is like new, since its a 2016 model and it came from Summerville, SC so no snow or salt corrosion.

So.. the 2009 thru mid 2010 370Z uses threaded axles - with no threads in the stub shafts.

You'll be OK at track,,,weather has been off here & too cold for it to open.
w/27" Rubber-mine bump's the 7700rpm limiter@116mph in 4th,,,so you can play w/tire sizes & adjust.

SG4247 12-28-2017 09:23 PM

My 285/40/18 MT ET street SS tires measure exactly 27" tall, so that sounds perfect at 7700 in 4th.

My car is not as fast as yours (yet) so I think I made the right choice with 3.69 and 7AT.

jchammond 12-29-2017 03:40 AM

That 285/40 is a lot of tire; as I was wanting to make a few passes with my worn out 345/30/19’s- but with cold weather setting in; they gonna have to come off & I’ll bolt my base 18” Wheels back on. Here’s a screenshot of my friend Blueranger’s ~Z~ as it’s possibly the fastest A/T Z & Roadster.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8b0ad02384.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

blueranger 12-29-2017 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3717930)
Okay bought one from the Nissan Stealer.. $194.03 OTD.

Short VLSD driver side stub shaft 38220-JK01B does not have threads.

My 2010 VLSD diff does not have threads either. Bolt heads are on the diff side, and thread into the half shaft WHICH IS threaded.

The 2016 VLSD diff I bought to swap in, has threaded flange on the pass side. So, the long pass side flange will need the threads drilled out.

What the frick?



Why don’t you swap them out from your 2010 diff?

If you drill out try a 7/16 “cobalt” drill bit with drilling grease to help the process.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SG4247 12-29-2017 05:17 PM

Well, my 2010 diff only has 32K miles on it. Wanting to keep it all together and un-molested.

What size rear Hoosiers are those?

jchammond 12-29-2017 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3718186)
Well, my 2010 diff only has 32K miles on it. Wanting to keep it all together an un-molested.

What size rear Hoosiers are those?

I'm pretty sure they're 28x10.50x15

SG4247 12-30-2017 08:47 AM

Anyone ever rebuild a factory VLSD?

Two questions:

1. Put the two c-clips in the side gears while the diff is apart? Or leave them on the stub shafts?

2. The total side gear clearance measures .005" which is in spec, but if I turn one stub shaft by hand (and hold the drive flange) the side gears and spider gears feel really notchy or ratchet like. Is this normal? The GM and Ford diffs that I have built were not like that.

SG4247 12-30-2017 12:58 PM

The FSM says to place the C-clips in the side gears at assembly. That seems like it may make the stub shaft installation difficult.

Hopefully someone here has some prior experience....

jchammond 12-30-2017 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3718331)
The FSM says to place the C-clips in the side gears at assembly. That seems like it may make the stub shaft installation difficult.

Hopefully someone here has some prior experience....

Just put a little lube on the splines/tip ... start the splines & smack it in with a soft mallet.
Unlike the old school C-clips that are removed after removal of center pin.
Piece of cake!
:)

SG4247 12-30-2017 06:48 PM

Thanks JC!

BTW the stub shaft threads drilled out no problem to .425" diameter.

We in business now!

Thank you

jchammond 12-30-2017 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3718384)
Thanks JC!

BTW the stub shaft threads drilled out no problem to .425" diameter.

We in business now!

Thank you

On quote#9 of this post i mentioned about removal of stub shaft's,,,as i purchased & installed a Quaife helical locker.
Jumping into the dis-assembly; i removed rear cover & pin that ran through carrier (where spider gears are)....after fighting & realizing that no way these shaft's push in & the C-clips fall off,,,,,i then went to the forum to see that they just pop out.
I wasn't working on a GM....lol

jchammond 12-30-2017 07:32 PM

Lots of good information on this thread-but read all the way through.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f437929bec.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:04 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2