The end of my street is a 45MPH dead stop after almost 3 miles.. Next braking is another 3 miles and is a high speed right followed by esses (i LOVE my commute!).

My opinion is that street pads are for street cars - you don’t have to mess with keeping brakes warm, and you’re not going to get fade in normal road driving. Triple digits? Mph? Not on any street that I know of. That’s instant impoundment and roadside license suspension where I live, even on the fastest highways.

I ran Ferodo DS2500 on track cars on the street, and PFC-01. Spring to autumn. Both brands squealed. One set of 2500’s was really bad. None had particularly useful cold bite. It’s noticeable. On track, I need a lap or two to get them and tires to really bite. If you haven’t done it, you wouldn’t understand. And neither of these are considered true dedicated track pads. I used Hawk HPS on another car, and they were basically hyped up street pads. None of these are particularly dusty. HP+ can be terrible in that regard, as are some others.

I never said I was on the street when I lost my brakes in the triple digits.

Knew i forgot something!!!!
Which video setup do you like better??

Each video is my hottest lap from my 1st and 2nd events.

Setup #1


================================================== ========

Setup #2

Good driving. I think there are still some seconds in there, too.

By "setup", do you just mean the camera location and screen overlays, or is the car set up differently between these?

Assuming it's the presentation you are referring to, I like them both. Always a fan of POV racing videos, but the outside perspective is different in a good way. It also lets you review your steering inputs (which are nice and smooth btw). It does attract the following unsolicited advice, though (the danger of posting any video online - ignore or take onboard as you wish). I think your steering wheel is too far from your seat back. Or your arms are too short :-). I like your 9 and 3 grip - very well done - but when you turn to near 12 O'Clock, your arm is too straight and I think you might be reaching your shoulders forward at that. Try positioning your wheel and seat so that with your hips and shoulders pressed against the seat back, you can put your arms on the 12O'Clock position with YOUR WRISTS resting on the wheel (don't take your shoulders off the backrest). This will make it easier on your body to stay still and braced in the corners. If you can plant your feet on the dead pedal or firewall behind clutch and behind the brake with a slightly bent knee, then the seat is the right distance back so adjust the wheel towards you or make the backrest more vertical. A stable, more comfortable driver is a faster driver!

I like the POV but the side camera has better quality without a windshield in front of it. I'd try the POV centered on the hood or roof.

The best locations for exterior cameras for me is on the sides so I can see just where the tires are exactly. High up top is pretty good too as long as the angle is wide enough. For cool looking shots, any low mounting position is great.

I'll have to experiment with different Gopro locations.

I try to keep the Gopro suctioned to the glass, has best grip there.

We'll try some other spots next!

:driving:

Thank you for the real-life examples of how my driving might differ from the "ideal." I do have a pretty "chill" track driving position. I've always focused on distance to the pedals. Seems i've forgotten to position the steering wheel for lapping duty.

Plus, i hold on to that wheel for dear life in the corners :bowrofl:

I hear you there, brother! Depending on what rubber you are running, I suspect that you can pull some significant G's in that car!

If you need a bit more help being planted in place without going to a full 4+ point harness solution, consider a CG-Lock device:
https://store.windingroad.com/cg-loc...dd-on-p49.aspx
You can get it from a number of race shops or online. One size fits all, and it locks the lap belt independent of the shoulder part so that you can snug your hips tight. If you then tighten the shoulder strap and tug hard to activate the car's built-in lock, you can get a huge amount of sticking power in the seat. Even if you don't lock the shoulder belt, this does keep the slack from sliding down into the lap belt, so you stay more planted in the seat.

I bet a buddy at the track will have one with him - ask if you can borrow it for a couple of laps to see if it is for you. Install is 30 seconds, and it leaves no marks once you've removed it. If you use it a lot, you may find that it wears the seat belt fabric slightly, right at the buckle.

Keep up the good work, and keep shaving off those 10ths!

In case you didn't believe me when I said that "I hear you there", check out the G meter...

:happydance: