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Esser's LS3 Powered FD3S RX-7 R1
I figured I would post up what I have been working on over the past year since I got out of a Z. I have owned several import cars in the past including a couple 350Z's and a few 240sx's and recently started diving into the LS world with a C5 corvette. The vette is a fantastic driving car and makes great power very little money, and unmatched reliability. However, there was always a lack of interest for me in the body and interior side of things, as well as the community in general. The 90's era imports have a special place in my heart, and the ability to create a car with the monster V8 power and reliability in a lightweight chassis peaked my interest. Enter the FD RX-7.
For the longest time I have wanted to pursue a project with an FD and it wasn't until recently that i was able to jump on a deal for a roller chassis from Texas that I found on this forum. I had my mind made up before I even bought the car, that an LS would find it's home in the chassis. It was a perfect candidate: R1 model with low miles, fresh paint, and all the rotary shenanigans had already been pulled out. I do love a nice rotary, but for me this project is about making my dream car, which is an LS FD. All the benefits of the reliable torque from a V8 and the elegant, agile chassis of the rx-7 combined into one. After a trip down to Texas (a 12 hr drive) I had the project strapped on a trailer and on its way home. :2f2f: https://i.imgur.com/WeMROsM.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KeJ10Hw.jpg The R1 model was a must for me, at 6'1" I was unable to fit a helmet on in a sunroof FD. Not to mention the roof line without the sunroof has a slight dip that adds to the unique curvy look of the FD. The roller I found was extremely complete, with all interior items included as well. I am thankful I was able to find such a clean slate to start with. https://i.imgur.com/uNgMEeq.jpg Here is my Tacoma making the long haul from Texas back up to Indiana with my precious cargo. It was a great feeling looking back into the rear view mirror to see that FD back there! https://i.imgur.com/hpBp0wx.jpg[/B][/B] Fresh off the trailer after a second 12 hour trip and resting in front of my house: https://i.imgur.com/PWD2Ls8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iTXjAq7.jpg I was able to start looking through the engine bay and seeing what all else had to be done, and the hours of research had begun to prepare myself to install an LS3 into the chassis. My overall plans for the build are to do it once and do it right, my OCD will help keep my cleanliness of the build in line. Ideal setup will be for a road course, but would like to keep it as streetable as possible. |
Here is a good size comparison next to a C5 corvette, for those curious. It is indeed much smaller in length and width!
https://i.imgur.com/t1FQ6ur.jpg My first plan of attack was to strip out the chassis and remove everything in the bay to prepare for paint. This involved pulling that horse show front harness out (huge pain) and taking out all the factory brake lines. this engine bay has been painted previously, but it was done when the engine was in the car so it is somewhat of a patchy mess ha. Rolled it out and removed the dash to get to some of the wire harnesses a little easier. The dash removal alone took a couple hours https://i.imgur.com/khAK1Yt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/06Pt3XI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9bzG9q8.jpg HVAC system removed: https://i.imgur.com/FGKrXDX.jpg Got the front down to bare chassis, in an attempt to start to fill in some holes and do a slight shave of the bay. I don't plan to completely smooth everything out, just a slight clean up. https://i.imgur.com/duyGCuJ.jpg |
With everything removed from the engine bay, I was able to give it a good cleaning and started removing some of the unnecessary brackets and holes.
https://i.imgur.com/BNbrbuD.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lQUdgmv.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Ohd4Z6R.jpg I also siphoned out all of the old gas that was sitting in the tank for who knows how long. https://i.imgur.com/n6K5Hs1.jpg With some help from a buddy, we welded up a lot of the future un-used holes for a bit of a shaved look: https://i.imgur.com/5GP9HwI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TAIemXS.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qgVWdZW.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7yB8viC.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4jS2PmO.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Zjgmwxu.jpg Again, not going for the completely shaved look, just removed the un-used holes so the engine bay is simplified. I grinded everything down and hit it with a coat of rust reformer to keep everything minty until the painter can get ahold of it. |
I removed the pedal assemblies and tore them down to rebuild them. It's obvious they used mild steel on these, and a light coat of rust had formed on the surfaces. I ended up soaking everything in apple cider vinegar to remove the rust, which worked amazingly well. I let them soak overnight in about a gallon of it, and they came out looking super fresh! I dried them off and before it could start rusting again I hit them with a coat of rust reformer.
https://i.imgur.com/MuAxO8t.jpg https://i.imgur.com/P18kxIF.jpg All the parts going into the apple cider vinegar: https://i.imgur.com/gmzjC8t.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9nuRB3K.jpg Comes out looking like new: https://i.imgur.com/jkZXGW5.jpg https://i.imgur.com/o4fiYgt.jpg Gave the steering column and the dash bar the same treatment: https://i.imgur.com/cZxWTCr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/xUUx69y.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uLRyxY8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/I7HmAgB.jpg |
I figured I would go ahead and freshen up the suspension components in front and undercoat the wheel well areas before the car goes off for bay paint. I removed the front a-arm/brake assemblies and gave them a good cleaning. Everything up front is super pro bushings, and Tein flex coilovers. Debating on if I should do a brake upgrade now or down the road.
https://i.imgur.com/lfn4DRg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7vjEIyi.jpg Had to pressure wash and scrub the crap out of these wheel wells to get all the crap out: https://i.imgur.com/ZDwTKYl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hxVunlj.jpg I used 3M professional rubberized undercoating and layed down a few coats. Love that stuff. https://i.imgur.com/QpiIqxP.jpg Re-assembled everything and the tow truck came to take her away to the paint shop: https://i.imgur.com/rHoR3iJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Fe9XqgA.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lTrv5QA.jpg At this point it had been about 4 months since the car had seen daylight, it was nice seeing it out in the open air again! Body shop planned to knock it out in a week https://i.imgur.com/1nrYKfh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A3f8ie7.jpg |
Oh yeah the day before the car left for paint, a big *** box showed up. 8) 8)
https://i.imgur.com/9DX3Bco.jpg |
So unboxing the crate LS3, such a nice looking motor! I thought about buying a used for the longest time, and some deals fell through on some engine/trans combos. I eventually settled about ordered a brand new crate engine, it was not much more money than what used LS3's go for, and of course still has the GM warranty on it.
https://i.imgur.com/VLEQDoA.jpg Got it up on the stand and started taking about the brand new engine to do the oil pan swap https://i.imgur.com/PPXs8au.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YXyCvTX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hU42NHq.jpg I will need to be using an f-body oil pan for the steering rack clearance. I went ahead and also bought the Improved Racing oil pan baffle for the added insurance during some hot laps. New stuff goin on: https://i.imgur.com/ThqaQOG.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qxzlZpa.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fyHM4Pk.jpg It's on! https://i.imgur.com/FdA5ktV.jpg |
Something that I put on my last LS engine was an ATI dampener, it saves some weight and has a 10% under-drive on it. Will be a great piece to obtain that "quick rev" action i'm going for.
https://i.imgur.com/y3Ywsp5.jpg Pulling the stock on off with a puller: https://i.imgur.com/kaj3OtT.jpg https://i.imgur.com/JH8nEPI.jpg New one is on! The new balancer weighs about 4 lbs where the stock one was about 10lbs. I went ahead and removed the stock manifolds as well since I wont be using them. I decided to go with the Samberg/Ronin subframe assembly, so I installed their fabricated engine mounts. Designed to fit LS's into the rx-7. They look really well constructed! https://i.imgur.com/iyDOeqd.jpg |
That's a hell of a project. I love V8 RX7s.
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While waiting for the engine bay to be completed from painter, I sprayed some satin black on my brake booster to freshen it up:
https://i.imgur.com/x0cu9Vg.jpg |
Car came back from the painter looking amazing, the pictures don't do it justice. I started installing all of the brake components when I got it back.
https://i.imgur.com/s5pzZlI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/WHfTWaq.jpg I went ahead and deleted the ABS system, for weight savings and the appearance factor. Not to mention I didn't have any of the sensors and I didn't want to put money into getting the system working. I chose to do the Rotary Shack's hard line abs delete kit, it took some manipulating but ended up fitting great. Installed a new gasket on the Booster and got it fitted up. https://i.imgur.com/wyAb5u2.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EhMtY6B.jpg Found some nice sized rubber grommets to fit into the holes for the passenger line. https://i.imgur.com/K2kdJmV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/O0mxeEJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4GSpvko.jpg The kit included a Wilwood proportioning valve to control fron to rear bias: https://i.imgur.com/qcPMXOI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/T0gPws3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3EvTXdI.jpg |
One of my goals for the project was to get the engine bay "show worthy". Not only does it look good, but it makes working on the car much more enjoyable when things are nice and tidy.
I went with a 1985 Toyota Landcruiser master clutch cylinder. It's beefy. It took minor modification to fit, and I did not end up doing any welding. I used the male to male thread pitch adapter and everything looks like it's going to work. The master cylinder itself is cast iron, should be pretty stout if the seals hold up over time. https://i.imgur.com/jZTsks8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RTW4agk.jpg I installed the lines, and started working on the subframe. I went with a setup from a company called Ronin, and had the subframe powdercoated from them. It replaces the factory mazda subframe to allow for LS engines to fit. Install went okay, I did end up having to grind down some welds on the top of the subframe so that it would sit flush to the chassis rails. I used my grinder and took off the bumps of the welds and all is good! https://i.imgur.com/Ca9T97M.jpg Raised welds here: https://i.imgur.com/DEGCGqe.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3rp5hW3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zezup8M.jpg Old subframe out and some heat shield installed: https://i.imgur.com/zKzmlkd.jpg https://i.imgur.com/IZgU8r7.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RXDAqGq.jpg Used some metallic tape to clean up the edges: https://i.imgur.com/aKqKYjm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5OMk07H.jpg |
I had seen some reported failures of the samberg subframe camber rings breaking off. This was mainly due to other root causes such as the front camber bolts loosening up and allowing movement. I requested that Ronin beef up mine with some extra welds (Thanks Ronin!) and they provided. They put some extra beads around the perimeter of the ring.
https://i.imgur.com/WoP19Wc.jpg In addition, I etched in some lines on the back faces of the bolt face to help "grab" the metal on the subframe. When this gets tightened down it should help hold the alignment during hard driving/bumps. https://i.imgur.com/yABh3bR.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ytFRCvU.jpg |
Steering rack freshened up and installed:
https://i.imgur.com/U479nng.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NT0iKx4.jpg I started working on the fuel system. I had previously emptied the tank, and had no clue of the condition inside. Being a metal tank, the possibility of rust was there, but once I pulled the stock pump I saw that everything was minty fresh! :) https://i.imgur.com/WEqebYO.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9UtruaS.jpg I installed my new fuel pump: a Walbro 400 lph. Should provide plenty for the LS3 even when I do some bolt-ons and cam and such. https://i.imgur.com/KaIn4l3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SHa8Hi9.jpg I did decide to go ahead and use all new fuel line instead of re-using the factory mazda hard lines. I got a big box of all my aeromotive items: https://i.imgur.com/0bn6Grr.jpg I went 6an for everything and put the fpr up front return style. Mounted it right by the master cylinder. https://i.imgur.com/FcEUPZY.jpg Removed the tiny fuel outlet/inlets on the factory tank cover and replaced with 6an bulkheads: https://i.imgur.com/p4IT4Us.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tmmQcyh.jpg Wrapped most my fuel lines near the bay in some adhesive backed heat sheild: https://i.imgur.com/BzGRIH3.jpg Evap canister vented: https://i.imgur.com/1hQE0z4.jpg |
It was difficult to find a place to mount the huge aeromotive fuel filter, this thing is like the size of a soda can. Should flow excellent. Only spot that would really fit it was the factory filter location above the diff:
https://i.imgur.com/HZC15Vj.jpg |
Trans has arrived! I went with a Stage 4 T56 Magnum. It is a new unit that has been torn down down and had carbon blocker rings installed and bronze fork pads installed. It's rated for 900rwtq! This one also has a Fbody tailhousing installed for ease of install into the FD chassis.
https://i.imgur.com/21XxcCE.jpg It fit in the trunk of my civic just fine ha! https://i.imgur.com/OaxLIoX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sBgMX1c.jpg Clutch also arrived, so I installed it onto the engine. I went with a Mcleod RXT twin disk clutch. It's supposed to hold 1000rwhp and drive like stock. It sure does look pretty tho. https://i.imgur.com/OdZQacs.jpg I went with a Fidanza lightweight flywheel. I am eager to see how fast I can get this engine to rev! https://i.imgur.com/TUpL6qr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7YmmUh9.jpg |
Gotta get this thing in here!
https://i.imgur.com/pYbvMCa.jpg |
Mounted the lifting bracket to the valley, and started mating the engine to the trans. This took a little bit longer than anticipated, but after some will force I made the two go together.
https://i.imgur.com/AkLI0ZM.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dBhujhi.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ECsvRJy.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Mf3NAiP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fDlrw7e.jpg Had some buddies come over to assist https://i.imgur.com/MtD39Nu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ULrk9rH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lAbeQpM.jpg Big grin on my face! this was a happy moment! https://i.imgur.com/io2JJp4.jpg It's in!!! https://i.imgur.com/J4GMAOv.jpg https://i.imgur.com/cfzMCyi.jpg Badass pic I took: https://i.imgur.com/gABEPJd.jpg |
intake installed:
https://i.imgur.com/z7oHQfx.jpg Large amount of heat wrap on the fuel lines and clutch lines: https://i.imgur.com/3rtGXby.jpg https://i.imgur.com/O81hPe4.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iyQGuzq.jpg Trans mount fitted up: https://i.imgur.com/XDVr4Z3.jpg Motor mount look really nice, tightened down the biscuits to get the engine height correct. https://i.imgur.com/lbf5b4Y.jpg Shifter alignment, needed to cut the trans tunnel a bit. Went with MGW https://i.imgur.com/U6sKBnt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eyHzITi.jpg Also started installing some accessories, picked up an alternator bracket and a nice power steering mount. I will be running Fbody accessories on the LS3. https://i.imgur.com/NlyTKU4.jpg |
Starting fitting up the power steering pump. Since the Fbody power steering pump will over power the factory Mazda steering rack, I bought a Turnone pump reducer to try to get the flow to a more "light" feeling level.
https://i.imgur.com/HoQIv3D.jpg Installed and lines ran: https://i.imgur.com/HtY5v1D.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vIOlve3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/N9Rh72S.jpg I also mounted the extended clutch bleed line and mounted it to a bracket on the intake. https://i.imgur.com/OGpAGLv.jpg Shifter hole block-off black installed and knob fitted. Went with a C6 shift knob, should look factory-like! https://i.imgur.com/cw0zvfJ.jpg |
[quote author=Esser link=topic=26008.msg328597#msg328597 date=1512668595]
Filled the power steering system with Driven oils power steering Fluid: https://i.imgur.com/pykZgZG.jpg Will be using an Odyssey PC925 battery, and fitting it under the bin behind the passenger seat. https://i.imgur.com/XGFYaQK.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jOSnPWU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/T2X5hKn.jpg https://i.imgur.com/CknAdQO.jpg [/quote] |
Made my own wire terminals for battery relocation.
https://i.imgur.com/CdNVK2p.jpg https://i.imgur.com/rucpOSX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tAJd2R3.jpg Started wiring in the engine. I went with the PSI conversions wire harness. Quality seems spot on and price is great compared to all other harness manufacturers. I 3D printed a hole size reducer so that the 2inch firewall grommet on the harness would mate up to the existing 3inch hole on the FD firewall. https://i.imgur.com/Ey0j6MP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/PJ25Sw8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TTFfVxz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2L5ZbwP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EYgc9FK.jpg Heat wrap installed: https://i.imgur.com/0bKi2OM.jpg I was also able to get the samberg radiator installed: https://i.imgur.com/7Boo8ww.jpg |
Keep going with it. You are doing all the right things. :tup: Glad to see what you did with all the heat wrap. Better to do it now than a after thought. Look forward to seeing the finished product. :driving:
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Dream project car for me. Nice to see things being done right. :drool:
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Great read
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dream build for me too. Amazing.
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Quote:
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:yum:
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Awesome build. Subbed!
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Amazaballs! Very skillful work you're doing there.
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Thanks for the compliments!
I was able to get some more wiring done, and installed my starter. I probably over did the heat wrapping, but better to be safe than sorry I figured. I wrapped all the wires that will be anywhere near the headers, and created some brackets to tuck them in close to the block. https://i.imgur.com/WcnBkG3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Isz3Bo2.jpg Heat wrap on starter solenoid wire: https://i.imgur.com/steblwY.jpg Headers and driveshaft showed up the other day. Will be getting those installed asap. https://i.imgur.com/23aMAIb.jpg Got all my accessories installed, and the intake duct is finalized. The air filter is a corvette style and is tucked down by the radiator core, hidden from view. Here is how the layout of the engine bay will appear. but I am thinking about re-locating the expansion tank to the back side of the firewall to clean it up some more. https://i.imgur.com/9OWaf5q.jpg?1 |
Where do you get your heatwrap?
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Quote:
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Very nice!!!
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Cleaned off the fender liners and got them put back in:
https://i.imgur.com/frViNoU.jpg Headers going in! They fit with room to spare. They are ceramic coated and look great. https://i.imgur.com/2MYr00A.jpg https://i.imgur.com/S3eCKR8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A8hgJCF.jpg Got the driveshaft installed as well: https://i.imgur.com/wq0obsi.jpg I started doing some wiring up front. I had been putting off doing some of the tedious work of trying to hide some of the fuse boxes, and tackle the front headlight/horn harness. I was a long process getting the front section back in and hiding everything. I started with a huge mess and ended up cleaning it up quite a bit: https://i.imgur.com/6fgqbFM.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LEegHyx.jpg Tucked the front fuse box under the crash bar. I will only be using two of these relays in the end after everything is functioning: https://i.imgur.com/peQD64o.jpg Horns mounted: https://i.imgur.com/qSlv36X.jpg I hid the fan relays in each fender liner. I tucked them in the little plastic crevice and ran the wires through the back with a little grommet: https://i.imgur.com/e3eAQbJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/CWFS3SL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ddlfev1.jpg I ran some 10g wire all the way to the back and hid the fuel pump relay in the compartment where the spare tools went. Should feed some power to the Walbro 400 nicely https://i.imgur.com/5uoKcyc.jpg?1 |
I ended up doing a full conversion to speedhut gauges, and thought I would share my process. The stock FD gauges are capable of reading the LS signals but extra conversion boxes are needed, and new sensors. I decided to go through and update the gauges to speedhut programmable versions. I was able to retain all the factory housings and bezels for a complete stealth look. I used these sizes:
4.5" Tachometer 4" Speedometer 2-1/16" Oil pressure 2-1/16" Water temp 2-1/16" Fuel gauge I actually measured the holes, and the 4.5" tach and 4" speedo work perfect. They actually measure out almost identical to the diameter of factory gauges. So for those of you that dont know, the speedhut gauges include their own bezel (usually aluminum) and their own rings to mount them. They also have a button (if programmable) and their own plexi-glass window. I ditched the plexi-glass window and aluminum bezel in order to make the factory mazda pieces work. So here is how the speedhut gauges look compared to the stock ones: https://i.imgur.com/JNPQITf.jpg https://i.imgur.com/yacN6h6.jpg?1 I went with the Revolution style gauge with white font. I also had the custom lettering put on to say "RX-7" ($10 option) I uncliped the clear lense cover and the black plastic backing from the cluster assembly and was left with this: https://i.imgur.com/dEE3DSX.jpg?2 The stock gauges themselves unbolt from the back. There are about 3 bolts per each of the gauges, and some excess bulbs I removed since the speedhut gauges are pre-lit. You will notice that these holes are way to small for the larger gauges. I used some side cuts and started making cuts into the edges of the housing. This effectively opens up the holes for the larger gauges. Then I literally threaded the gauge body into the housing. https://i.imgur.com/bQJxC8N.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tUg05jQ.jpg Made it so the gauge will "press/thread" in: https://i.imgur.com/BwvnXkg.jpg Tach installed: notice the alumium bezel is removed and the slider ring on the back is also ditched. https://i.imgur.com/z3YnulG.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/ENetmPw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RriRhWC.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2kx4UB3.jpg Run the wires through the (now) un-used bulb holes: https://i.imgur.com/eAfaQee.jpg Once all the gauges are pressed in, I noticed that there are stubs on the edges of each gauge. I will need to drill out the clear lens to accept these protrusions. I put a bit of toothpaste on the tip of edge stub and then lined up the lens so I could see where I needed to drill: https://i.imgur.com/O7YFsPc.jpg The "drill here" mark it made on the lense: https://i.imgur.com/SHgP2R8.jpg At this point I re-installed the lens and see that everything fits and lines up like OE https://i.imgur.com/VjrdW6H.jpg But quickly realized you can't push buttons on the programming for each gauge. I marked "eye-balled" where each of the buttons were with a sharpie, then removed the bezel and drilled it out to accept the speedhut rubber buttons and standoffs. Drill slowwlllyyyyyy: https://i.imgur.com/AmgCh1e.jpg Buttons installed: https://i.imgur.com/U0BnJPh.jpg Standoffs put in place to reach the button on the gauge: https://i.imgur.com/Nq4WJ7P.jpg Screwed all the items back together and I now have a fancy factory looking gauge setup with programmable shift lights and alarms: https://i.imgur.com/bZ43hdD.jpg |
DUDE. That is brilliant. Thanks for posting the updates in the form of a DIY. Love learning little tricks like this.
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Wow, what an amazing build. Stellar work!
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Thanks for the compliments, trying to take the time to get everything right the first time.
I hit the expansion tank with a couple coats of wrinkle black, turned out pretty nice. https://i.imgur.com/pU25wTY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vQ4d6x4.jpg https://i.imgur.com/sAPJS5R.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iP748Ve.jpg I also completely took apart the HVAC and cleaned out all the debris. My roller is low mileage, but still had a bit of leaves and crap in the vents: https://i.imgur.com/sSFqosU.jpg I did some relocating, and I think I found a better spot for the expansion tank in the bay. It tucks into the corner by the wiper motor pretty well. I temporarily set it here to see how the hose routing will work. https://i.imgur.com/eGcWgf6.jpg Heater hoses ran, and covered in some fiberglass heat wrap from RaceFlux. https://i.imgur.com/cxUdqWx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/igIqU4F.jpg I also found a nice overflow tank and fabbed an aluminum bracket for it to sit back in the corner next to the expansion tank. Will have to go back through and clean up all the hoses, but I think i'll stick with this setup. It get the expansion tank in the highest place possible for coolant burpage. https://i.imgur.com/guiXtZm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XF1TOVe.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vc0pFIc.jpg Also fabricated an aluminum bracket to mount the front fuse box to: https://i.imgur.com/RsZC8AN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/pDdhTfL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9VK5PBN.jpg |
Gauge cluster installed into the car and wired up, everything is working well with the aftermarket gauges, turn signals and warning lights functioning.
https://i.imgur.com/NMbyPB6.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DQRHCck.jpg |
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