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P1606 VVEL issue/code
Has anybody experience this issue? Two weeks ago I experienced the same code plus p1089 and 1092, which went away once I replaced a relay. However p1606 has come back and I am absolutely stumped after multiple attempts are fixing the issue. Does anybody have any kind of recommendation or suggestions. Car will not rev past 1500 rpm. I tried swapping out relays like prior but this time the issue remains.
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Yes the code it's reading now is p1606 vvel. The 1089 and 1092 were prior codes last week that went away with relay replacement. Just giving history. Any other suggestions?
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Might have found corrupt. Vvel module
P1606 VVEL CONTROL MODULE < DTC/CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS > P1606 VVEL CONTROL MODULE DTC Logic INFOID:0000000006217951 DTC DETECTION LOGIC DTC No. Trouble diagnosis name (Trouble diagnosis content) DTC detecting condition Possible cause P1606 VVEL CONTROL MODULE (VVEL control module) • VVEL control module calculation function is malfunctioning. • VVEL EEP-ROM system is malfunctioning. • VVEL control module DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE 1.PRECONDITIONING 1. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. 2. Turn ignition switch ON. 3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. TESTING CONDITION: Before performing the following procedure, confirm that battery voltage is 10 V or more at idle. >> GO TO 2. 2.PERFORM DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE 1. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 1 second. 2. Check DTC. Is DTC detected? YES >> Go to EC-451, "Diagnosis Procedure". NO >> INSPECTION END Diagnosis Procedure INFOID:0000000006217952 1.PERFORM DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE 1. Turn ignition switch ON. 2. Erase DTC. 3. Perform DTC Confirmation Procedure. See EC-451, "DTC Logic". Is the DTC P1606 displayed again? YES >> Replace VVEL control module. Refer to EC-536, "Removal and Installation". NO >> INSPECTION END E |
Get that replaced.
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I had this same code
P1606 master mechanic at Nissan said same thing. It's the vvel control module. So had that replaced and two weeks later the same **** is happening. Was your issue fixed when replacing the module or did you do something else?
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Bumping this thread back from the dead. I too have experienced this potentially fatal problem. I apologize for the long post, but I hope someone will find this info useful.
Vehicle 2009 Nissan 370Z Touring w/Sport pkg ~100k miles Relevant Mods - Optima yellow-top battery - DIY grounding wires - Test pipes - 02 bung extenders - JWT flywheel and pressure plate - ACT 6-puck sport clutch - K&N filters - Mishimoto oil cooler June 10, 2011 A few years back I had a road-side malfunction where the all the electronics flashed like crazy, engine shut off and steering wheel locked while in the middle of a turn and it was raining hard. Car lost all power, lost brake pedal pressure and slowed to a stop at the intersection. I was lucky I didn't crash into the car in the lane next to me! Mods I had at the time were Stillen CAI, Optima yellow-top battery and grounding wires. This problem was later compounded by the AAA tech who arc'ed my battery. Warranty voided... I never found out what the underlying root cause was, but I suspected it could have been a sketchy LoJack installation but who knows. Dealer stated ECM, BCM and Camshaft Position sensor were fried by the tech. Parts replaced out of my own pocket. Then, no problems for several years and I have driven my car HARD ever since. Good times... September 18, 2017 I hop in my car ready to go to work when I noticed it started and idled wierd. Whatevs, let the Z warm up. As I pull out of my parking spot, NO THROTTLE RESPONSE. I am talking next-level "limp-mode". Car would not rev higher than ~1800RPM and could not go faster than ~10 MPH. Code reader said P1606, couldn't find much on the web except for on the370z.com...;) I left the car overnight and started it in the morning. Nothing wrong at all, perfect throttle response. WTF. "Maybe I put 87 octane by accident again?". Drives fine on the road. No problems, until last week... November 24, 2017 I hop in the Z for some sweet Black Friday shopping and on the way to the freeway, I pull up to a Golf GTI who wanted to play. Fine, whatevs let him hear my test pipes, let the wheels chirp, etc. Get on the freeway entrance hauling at 80MPH when suddenly...POW!!!! There was an audible 'POW' sound and I felt violent jerk. I had a sudden loss of power, no throttle response, car started idling really weird and I had make an emergency stop on the shoulder. I then crawled for a mile on the shoulder at a max of ~8MPH and parked it at a gas station until I could get assistance later that night. The code reader showed the same p1606... MF'er...:( Wire harness to module and relays (near battery compartment) look solid. Fresh gas (91 octane), ground wires solid, no smoke, no fluid leaks, battery just under ~14v. Sooo....it looks like it's either the VVEL module or VVEL relay that's messed up. It could be related to the incident with AAA (above) and maybe it took this long for those components to crap out. So I bought the module on ebay for $55 - I'm hoping that works. Bought a new set of spark plugs and a can of Seafoam just in case. |
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Update I have another P1606 symptom for you all... So, I got the replacement VVEL module in the mail last night and it looks like it's in good shape! :) While I wait on the rest of my parts to arrive, I decided to move the Z into the shop (aka "the backyard"). And as I was backing in/out (at ~4MPH :( ) I noticed I had NO BRAKE PEDAL RESPONSE! Basically the brake pedal was super stiff and so I had to resort to using my E-brake to help stop and move the Z into position. I checked the Brake Master Cylinder and vacuum hose and they looked okay, so If I had to make an educated guess I would say that the VVEL module may also be responsible for controlling idle air pressure needed to run the BMC. Otherwise I hope this is unrelated, as I am fairly confident I didn't blow my head gasket... I'll keep you guys posted. I've dealt with worse so I am optimistic. :) |
I hope you get this figured out. Maybe somebody can chime in with knowledge or same symptoms/experience.
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November 28, 2017 Spent a little time in the battery compartment area last night (where the VVEL Module and VVEL relays are stashed). I followed the diagnostic procedure here - thank you btw fritz :tiphat: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-problems.html I got the VVEL relay off and didn't see anything suspicious. I ruled out the relay being burned out since swapping with its neighbor (the power window washer relay) had no effect and the washer motor and window washer both still work. The wires to those relays and my DIY grounding cables look fine as well. Unfortunately, I ran out of time and couldn't finish getting the VVEL module out last night. But here is procedure: (page EC-116 to EC-124) Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club Word of advice, to remove the VVEL module you NEED to first remove: - battery compartment plastic shrouds/finishers - the battery - IPDM E/R (basically that huge black relay box next to the battery) The VVEL module I is held in place with three 12mm bolts. I will get to the module itself next... |
December 3, 2017
I don't understand - replacing the VVEL should have fixed it. I finally got to the VVEL module and replaced it with the one i picked up from eBay.Removal of the harness from the VVEL module is a pain in the a**: The way you do this is use a tiny flat head screw driver to pull out these white slider tabs from the big black connector. The connector comes out in steps (or feels like it comes out in steps), by that I mean you pull the white tabs out a bit and tug on the connector and repeat 3 times, pulling the white tabs out a bit further each time. The black male connector on the VVEL module has 4 studs that these white tabs lock onto. Anyway, after replacing the module there was only a slight change in cranking the engine (I now get a p1606 pending and a P0300 pending in addition to the same p1606). Otherwise still no throttle response. I tried pulling out and swapping the relays again, no effect either. I ran through the diagnostic/troubleshooting section in the FSM and all steps lead to "replace the module". So, do I have 2 faulty VVEL modules?? AND two blown relays?? I am not getting codes for a relay, so It's unlikely, but possible. I am going to get a hold of the eBay seller and try my luck with an exchange... At this point I am defeated :( but I am not giving up... Since I need to pull the VVEL module out to get a replacement anyway, I might as well remove the intake manifold and check/replace the spark plugs - who knows. |
December 4, 2017
I got a hold of a local Z shop, Precision Z in Canoga, CA. They've never worked on a P1606 issue before and are willing to help, but I decided to give it one more try before I hand it over to the pros. They stated that if I want to assume that the replacement VVEL module works, then there has to be a problem with the signal to/from the module, which means I should check out the IPDM (basically the Z's engine bay fuse box). If I find a blown fuse, then that would be the underlying root case. Otherwise, I should try to perform the VVEL learning procedure (which I totally neglected to do). What I plan to do next is the following diagnostic procedures in the "370Z Bible" (aka Nissan 370Z Factory Service Manual): - ADDITIONAL SERVICE WHEN REPLACING CONTROL UNIT (VVEL CONTROL MODULE) (EC-18) - ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION LEARNING (EC-19) - THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING (EC-20) - IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING (EC-20) |
December 11, 2017
The fires here in SoCal made it tough for me to work on the Z, but the car is finally FIXED! :happydance: Ok so I feel REALLY STUPID, but basically it came down to one or both of the Camshaft Position Sensor connectors coming loose. I basically found this out while the car was running - I was frustrated and started tugging on wires and plugs when suddenly I felt a tiny "cough" in the idle throttle response. Turned out it was the driver-side CPS plug. So, I cleaned it up and connected it and throttle response came back the next time I started the engine. Ahhhh... 5000+ RPM revs, how've I've missed you. Hindsight Looking back, I do recall having replaced the spark plugs recently (~6,000 miles ago maybe). Part of that process involved disconnecting/unplugging various connectors in order to remove the intake manifold and parts. My guess is when I put everything back I didn't double-check my connectors, which that one then later unplugged itself under some harsh driving conditions. What I don't understand is why I didn't get other codes, like for the Camshaft Position or Idle Air Volume or something else. I just got a vague P0300...Anyways... Lesson learned - Always make sure you push connectors until you feel/hear a 'click', otherwise they will unplug themselves and cause you a bunch of headaches. Anyway, I hope my experience helps someone in the future! :driving: |
February 4, 2018
It f**king happened again...:eekdance: This time I had just recently did an engine flush and oil change. Along with a fresh change of 5W-30, I added some Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer and Slick50 Engine Restorer (my z just hit 100k). I took it out for a spin after the oil change and went to get gas at the Costco nearby. Everything was smooth until the first stoplight on the way back home. I suddenly lost throttle response and get the CEL. Its a good thing I was on surface streets this time! Code reader gave me a P1606, P0300 and a U1024 (wtf?). Rough Idle. :shakes head: After some troubleshooting I stopped getting the other codes and stayed with the P1606. I recalled that tugging on the driver's-side Camshaft Position Sensor plug had some beneficial effect so i tried that. Nothing... So I unplugged the sensor while the car was idling...nothing... Finally, I unplugged the passenger's side Cam sensor as well and the car DIED, so I guess it was a bad sensor? To verify this I pulled out both Cam sensors - which were really hot - and saw that they were caked in oil (not burned though). I sprayed both down with degreaser and popped them back in. Still idling rough, still getting P1606. I had to think about it hard. February 5, 2018 Today I went home to try and swap the Cam sensors to see if I could learn anything new, but I didn't need to - the Z started right up and sounded STRONG. "I know what this is!" I said. It's a faulty Cam sensor that has accumulated some heat damage over several years of harsh driving conditions. I let it run for a few minutes and throttled it like I usually do and didn't have any problems. That one sensor must get hot over some time and start to fail intermittently. I ordered replacement sensors online and will replace both of those before I actually try to commute with it again - call me paranoid. I'll keep you guys posted! :hello: |
February 20, 2018
Replaced the Cam sensors but she didn't idle right this morning. Starting to get really tired of borrowing the wife's car - she is too as she can't leave the house nowadays. I need to fix this ASAP. Starting to consider taking it to the stealership or trading it in for a new ride altogether...:crying: February 21, 2018 Tried troubleshooting after work. I noticed that the voltage dropped quickly after idling and shutting off the engine, so I decided to do a full stress test of the electrical system. What I did was I let the car idle for 3-4 mins, then I started turning on the accessories - High beams, A/C, Defroster, Hazards, Heated seats, blasting stereo on full bass, etc. Normal voltage while driving is usually 14.5v. With everything else running it dropped to 14.1v over 1-2 minutes. Then I turned off accessories and let the car idle so the battery could recover before shutting it off again. After shutting it off, I switched the ignition to the "ON" position without starting the engine so I could run my code reader and I noticed it dropped from 12.7v all the way to 12.2v within about a minute. That didn't look right so I switched it off and used a DMM (voltmeter) to read the voltage off the battery directly and it was reading 12.13v, which is below spec. After this discovery I ran the code reader and started/idled some more and got the same P1606 and P1606 pending with an additional P0300 and a random U1024 and P1421. I checked my yellow top Optima battery's date of manufacture and reads 05/2013. The Optima website says battery life can range anywhere from 18 months all the way up to 4 years - depending on operating temperatures and whether or not the battery is properly maintained by the Alternator, etc: https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...r-battery-last I'm hoping the battery is the root cause - it seems like it would be time to replace it, but the symptoms don't add up. I really don't know anymore... I'm a former Computer Science/Electrical Engineering student, a full time web developer and consider myself proficient with tools and technology but I'm just out of ideas now and really tired of this. I don't want to get rid of my Z... Any help would be appreciated at this point...:crying: |
i have a friend that’s having the exact same problem and symptoms. i’m gonna keep researching the forums, but hopefully you find a solution brother.
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Did either of you have any luck finding root cause? I'm having the same intermittent issue. Typically if I leave it alone overnight it just works. I fidgeted with the MAF and camshaft sensor connectors one time thinking that actually did something (the next morning) but I think it's just time (or ambient temperature) that solves it.
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Mendoza keep us posted. My 2011 Nismo is having the same problem and its left me a few times with the P1606 code on the scanner.
I'll be dropping my Z off at the stealership soon and see if they can't figure out the problem. I have an extended warranty on it and this should be covered and once she's back I'll let you guys know what Nissan says |
My Z had this happen again, anyone have any leads?
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Hey everyone! I'm back and I can say with confidence that I've fixed my problem for good - the Z has been running fine for 3 weeks now (knock on wood). But before I share, I just want to note that my situation may be different from yours and as such my solution may not work for everyone, so definitely do your own research and get a second or third opinion.
TL : DR ; - It was the f**cking relays... Since my last post I took my car to two different mechanics. The first shop didn't see anything wrong when I brought it in (I guess they ignored the P1606?), stated the car started up and drove fine and simply asked me to bring it back to them when the problem came back. The second shop stated that the only thing they could think of was to try and replace the entire EFI and engine room harnesses, then if that didn't work they would try replacing the ECM and hope for the best. However since parts & labor for those options weren't cost-effective solutions they said they didn't want to touch it and simply wished me the best of luck... So I went to a local junk yard (Pick-U-Part in the San Fernando valley) and with the help of my brother who is an aspiring mechanic found a wrecked 2014 base model 370Z and salvaged the main two relays (VVEL and Window washer), an IPDM, a fuse box, a VVEL module and most of the Engine room harness. I spent days mapping out the harness by hand and studying the Factory Service Manual (specifically sections EC and PG). In the end my process was to basically rip apart the car, revert the car back to stock in order to eliminate everything as a potential problem and meticulously put it back together. I basically removed the entire intake system (plenum, pipes, MAFs), reconstructed every electrical component near the battery compartment (fuse boxes, relay boxes, etc), replaced all the fuses (whether they were blown or not), cleaned up the wiring harnesses, checked for shorts to ground/power, brushed all the ground connections and then ran through all the major system calibrations (meaning initializing the VVEL, resetting the ECU, running the idle air volume learning process, etc). All this was probably overkill and I didn't find anything seriously wrong but I had to be absolutely sure. Anyway that seemed to do the trick and I stress tested the s**t out of the Z wanting it to fail again. You name it I did it - I accelerated hard, sprayed water all over the engine bay and battery compartment, ran it cold, ran it hot, etc. The problem was fixed, but what was the root cause? Well, my theory is that it was the relays all along. When I tried to swap them early in my troubleshooting I got a false positive and then ruled them out that thinking it had to be something else. The fact of the matter was that I didn't use the metal bracket that holds the relay box in place back when I first installed my Optima Yellow top battery because of wiring clearance issues. It is entirely possible that the relays were indeed faulty and that harsh driving conditions (such as a bumpy road) would shake up and trip the relays which would cut power to/from the VVEL module which explains the intermittent U1024 (CAN communication circuit). It wasn't the VVEL or the ECM like the manual says it is. I tried 3 different VVELs so I know it wasn't that and I wasn't getting codes for the ECM or anything else. It probably helped that the relays from the donor car were newer and made by a different manufacturer - My car is a 2009 and as a first-gen 370z it's understandable for parts to fail since the engineers probably haven't worked out all the bugs yet. That's it! I hope you guys get some value out of this information and learn from my experience and mistakes. I also want to thank you guys for all your feedback and support - I was so close to giving up and selling my Z but right now am back to having good times! Peace, JMendoza Mendoza Motorsports Pacoima, CA |
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My understanding is that the capacitors and inductors inside the relays discharge and reset over time. Relays are basically made of light metals, plastic and ceramic so it makes sense that extreme temperatures would negatively affect them (mainly heat), but that's probably not the root cause. My 370z is a 2009 and since it's a first generation model some parts are more likely to fail since the engineers don't have all the bugs worked out yet. If your car is newer, I would buy a brand new relay and replace the VVEL relay with that one, disconnect your car battery for a few minutes, plug it back in and drive modestly for a bit before pushing it harder. Here's a video that you may find useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWmt6gorzUg |
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If you still have warranty you should be okay, but mention the relays to the techs and ask what they think. Have them test the relays if they know how to. Here's a video that you may find useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWmt6gorzUg |
Update --
I replaced both relays in that VVEL box (since they are both the same, I said screw it). It's been 6 months and I haven't been stranded yet. Fingers crossed that this was the fix. My Z is a 2010 -- I went with used relays off eBay from a 2015 leaf... |
I'm intermittently experiencing similar issues but different Pcode.
Car goes to idle and has no throttle response. Getting a P1608. Disconnecting battery clears the code and car seems to run fine until it happens again. Wondering if it's a similar relay issue. Do you guys have part numbers for relays and maybe a link to instruction on replacing? Thanks. |
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25230-7995A (replace dash with nothing or a space as every site lists it slightly differently.)
Thinking back I'm not sure if I ever pulled a battery lead but I certainly tried to clear the code with a scan tool and that rarely fixed it. It was always leave it sit overnight and it was fine again in the morning. The pic attached shows the location of the box, it's item #4 |
Thanks for the info. I've never been able to clear the fault with tool. Always by removing batter lead.
Update to my issue: Had it happen again on way to work. This time removing battery lead would not clear the fault. Was showing P1609, P1089, P1092. Had it towed to dearlership and currently waiting on call to see what the damage is going to be. |
I'm curious to hear the update on what the dealer found and what you decided to do
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Vorex- was there any resolution with dealer?
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reviving an old thread but this happened to me twice in a year's time. first time I swapped the module and left it overnight then it started and ran fine for several months. recently it's been happening a couple times a week and luckily I was able to clear the code and restart and it would run fine but yesterday the P1606 popped up and WOULD NOT CLEAR. took a Lyft to a nearby dealership where they had 1 relay left in stock, swapped it in and still nothing. limped it home at 5mph and let it sit overnight and now it runs like nothing ever happened. I'd really like to know the definite fix for this. even though I have AAA I'd rather fix it once and be sure.
tl;dr new relay + sitting overnight fixed my P1606 |
Sounds like a wiring or sensor problem. The FSM (link in my sig) will have troubleshooting procedures.
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sidenote, after i replaced the relay last week it seems my car runs differently, the exhaust sound is deeper and it feels like the car runs smoother? is this a placebo or can the VVEL module really make that much of a difference? |
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1) The new module is allowing the engine to run properly again, ie, that's the way it's supposed to sound. 2) The new module has slightly different programming. |
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Check your grounds for vvel. Wire brush and make sure they are tight on the chassis.
My dealer says it's the wiring harness. They wanted 8k between parts and labor. There's 2 harnesses they wanted to replace. The engine harness and the body control harness. Talking to the mechanic himself he said he thinks it's just the body control harness but he had to run it by some area Nissan engineer who told him replacing both is the only way to garuntee it's fixed since I kept coming back with the same issue. |
Is the ground right behind the relays and next to the fuse box?
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The 4 tabs described above catches on grooves of a plastic retainer thing that slides up and down along with the lever. |
Been getting P1606 lately. Sometimes I am able to reset it and the car runs fine for weeks. Then it randomly pops up again. I ordered a new relay and used VVEL control module. Going to pop it in this weekend. Do I need to reprogram the module or do anything else with it besides plug and play? It is coming from a used car so I wouldn't imagine needing to. Super frustrating.
Will report back once it's done. |
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Make sure the relay box sits securely on the relay box bracket and it doesnt have too much play in it, and also, the little clips on the side that holds the relays make sure they arent broken. That can cause the relays to jar loose. |
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