Well I can tell that you as well as several other people don't know what you are talking about by this statement. Where they make huge profits? You guys are kidding me right? Have you ever had a car repair? If they sell a service contract for 1,500, 2,000, 3,000 dollars do the math, of course there is profit in there, but do you think the cost of that policy is $50 dollars or something? At the Honda dealership I work at labor is $105 an hour, then throw in parts and diagnostics time, where is all this profit you are speaking of.

If you actually were well read on the subject, you'd learn that legitimate service contracts typically return .91 cents on the dollar. Yes, this means you lose 9 cents per dollar spent on average. Some people don't use their service contract, some people use it a few times and break even or close to it, and some people use it a ton and would have been hosed if they hadn't had it.

It's called transfer of risk. You have to ask yourself is the monthly payment increase or cash price worth the not having to worry about it or coming up with hundreds or thousands of dollars at any given time. I make excellent money. I still do not want to cough up an unexpected $1,000 bucks, which by the way is quickly becoming the average repair for a Honda on any given shop repair visit.

Guess what the National Highway Loss Data Institute discovered in 2005 when they stopped studying costs of vehicle accidents and studied the average car repair for all vehicles. Over $3,900 bucks per incident, and this study was based off what the service contract companies paid out mind you, not the stupid customers who paid cash for their giant repairs because there was no way to track those numbers. This study is now nearly 7 years old. Do you think the cost of repairs has gone up perhaps?

You and anyone are entitled to your opinion on service contracts, they are an insurance policy. But making statements like what you just said makes me think you are either poorly read on the subject or my grandfathers age.

You want to know where the giant profits are? Try the repair shop. Don't believe me? Go look at a fire escape plan at your local dealership and you tell me where 85% of the floor plan is dedicated to. You guessed it, the repair shop. Do you think if they make so much profit off the cars and warranties that they would give all that valuable space to the shop guys? Space is a commodity my friend. If you are right, then why don't they have one repair bay and then a giant sales floor and huge sprawling finance offices, and 50 finance managers selling those super profitable warranties. You are living in la la land and basing your blanket statements off facts that were true over 20 years ago. Time to catch up with the times dude.

Oh and one more thing, good luck with your major problem recall theory. Yes, if nationwide everyone has a problem it's a recall. If a lot of people have an issue they can issue a service bulletin. What happens when problems arise which don't meet the government recall or bulletin standards, you end up paying. And it takes a huge amount of problems before a manufacturer is forced to pay for repairs. And what happens when you find out you are one of the lucky folks whose car just broke, or your CD player or NAVI stopped working, or your window motor wore out, or your doors don't unlock. Pull out that credit card buddy boy.

Nothing get's me more fired up than the uneducated. Good for all you people who did your research and bought a service contract. One last thing, you can negotiate to a certain extent if the dealer wants to that is. Buying a service contract is smart, paying too much for it is as stupid as the guy who doesn't buy one and thinks they make all the money on them.

The reason they push warranties on people is because studies show that a customer who purchases a car AND a warranty is extremely more likely to return to that dealer for repairs and maintenance even if the warranty allows them to take it anywhere they want. Why? Well because they don't have to pay for repairs because of the warranty and most people develop a relationship with their service advisors and dealership personnel if the experience was a pleasant one. They make the most money off service, repairs and maintenance, and they would rather have you not pay for it and sign your name and give thumbs up reviews and smile while you whistle dixie out the front door then not buy a warranty and come in and bitch and complain and yell at the receptionist because she asked for your card to run it for $2600 bucks because you were such a smarty and decided not to buy the warranty.

It's not rocket science that they push those towards people. A customer with 8 years of free repairs is a happy, loyal and repeat customer typically. The idiot who doesn't buy one stops coming in after their free 3/36 manufacturer defect warranty expires. And that's a good thing too because they are they ones who bitch and complain about EVERYTHING. Good riddens.

IMHO, a waste of money.

All good points, although a tad short on patience IMO. ;)

I bought an extended warranty for my '05 S2000. Will I ever use it? No, probably not (especially since Honda doesn't fix soft top issues that are in fact a defect of the mechanism :mad:). I also purchased one for my '11 370z. To me it's worth the piece of mind so I factor that into every car I purchase, period. I've done the whole 'mod the crap out of a car' thing before and enjoyed doing all the work myself. Can I replace an alternator, oil pan gasket, rear diff? Sure...no biggie really. Do I want to spend my Sunday doing that? Nope!

To me it's not so much the $, it's more the time. With all the sensors and such diagnosing a problem can be a pain in the *** these days. I make a decent salary and just don't want to worry about it for 8 years, so to me it's not a waste of $. Although, I will admit from a pure fiscal standpoint it probably is a waste. It's always a gamble.

For the extra bumper-to-bumper protection I paid less than a new set of quality tires for this car.

+1 ..A couple hundred less...$1070 for 7 year warranty.

i paid $2000 for extended gold premium - i get all service done at the dealership for no fee. so far, that means oil changes and they replaced a missing lug nut.

for me - well worth it.

I never buy an extended warantee anymore. You can't mod your car, race your car, do burn outs, etc... There is a super long list of things they use to void your warantee with and believe me they have in my case.

After a couple of claims that the warantee companies would not pay and they made me pay the dealer prices, I said nut to them. I can get things fixed for less through qualified ASE Mechanics or do it myself.

Also remember they do not pay out on items that do not work the way you want them too. slow motors etc.. Only items that are broken. If it still works even intermittantly they won't pay. It has to be completely broken and replaced. Some find ways around that though.

Now looking back at the thoundsands I've saved... I'm happy. You have to understand though; I've bought a new vehicle just about every year of my adult life. That includes, boats, motorhomes, JEEPs, Quads, etc...

If something comes up I just fix it myself. Most everything I've had to fix has been under $500. Don't forget things like brakes, clutches, tires, wipers, oil changes, fluid and fluid changes are not covered. That is where I spend the most money.... Tires have been the greatest of all these evils for me.

If you blow a tranny or engine it's still cheaper after 3 years to buy a one used at the junkyard. Oh, and you get a warantee with that. You don't a new motor in a car that has 36K on it imo. Rebuilt is just fine. That comes in about $2K ... BUT, you have to be able to do your own work. It's the labor that gets most people.

So in closing ... For some it's still worth the cost due to the labor part of things.

"For the extra bumper-to-bumper protection I paid less than a new set of quality tires for this car."

LOL but, you still have to buy the tires, brakes, clutches... :bowrofl:

just wondering would let's say a chipped splash guard and a scraped side skirt be covered since i have the gold plus preferred have had car for 5 months so far

Just bought a 2012 this past sunday, can someone please forward me the dealer in california? I'm in LA.

Thanks.

Can someone pm me the dealer contact in Cali?

It is listed in the thread. It would be the Nissan Dealership in Santa Rosa, CA. If you are looking for best price on extended warranties. Google if you need additional info. good luck.

I bought my car with 4k miles on it. I bought it slightly over cost, so I already knew they would put in the pro vegas contract dealer after I told them I was firm and if they did A closer I would walk. I was very good but the contract guy was better. This is why they didn't want me to come in with a check as I already knew the out the door price with tax and fees as I looked it up myself. Anyhow, I got 4% (I know it goes as low as 3%) with average credit and since my bank offered 6% it was the same out the door price. But he played 3 card monty with me showing me the figures on hard copy saying the computer was not transmitting then said ok it transmitted sighn electronically and like magic my 6yr 100k $2k price ended up being $2.5k. I asked about the 120k and got side tracked. I have security+ and the car is certified.

Anyhow, I also bought my F150 1 years old and I received offers from Ford to purchase directly from them. Nissan will do the same if you fill out the registration and extended warranty cards. Every year closer to the end of the original warranty the reduced the price on the extended warranty.

I have to look at mine but I think it only says security+ and no gold or platinum and it's supposed to be no deductable. I also ended up buying the gap insurance since I financed 100% and the loan was now higher then the discounted sales price.

i paid 1300 for 6years/72k i think i got the gold+ but not to sure. guy told me it covers my tranny and anything else that could break due to harsh conditions.

I'm just about to pull the trigger on a Gold Preferred from Santa Rosa Nissan as my z has 16k miles and about 5 months remaining on OEM warranty. I'm just trying to figure out which one to get. They charge an extra $75 on the above price for the car being over 12k miles and I will probably opt for $0 deductible which is a little over $200-350 more.

Keeping in mind you are probably really paying for the upper range of mileage and years on these, it seems best that if you're going to buy one at all you might as well go with most miles and years possible, as most things start to break as the car approaches 100k miles.

So I've narrowed my choice down to the 3 I've highlighted above

here are the prices with $75 added for over 12k miles on vehicle and $0 deductible

370Z Gold Preferred 72 Month 75,000 Mile Coverage
CODE: 370Z72m75k
Price: $1,260.00
or 17 Monthly Payments @ 0% APR.: $66.71
10% Down Payment: $126.00

370Z Gold Preferred 72 Month 100,000 Mile Coverage
CODE: 370Z72m100k
Price: $1,700.00
or 17 Monthly Payments @ 0% APR.: $90.00
10% Down Payment: $170.00

370Z Gold Preferred 84 Month 120,000 Mile Coverage
CODE: 370Z84m120k
Price: $2,117.00
or 17 Monthly Payments @ 0% APR.: $112.08
10% Down Payment: $211.70

I disagree 100%
 

On my 2009 Maxima which got totaled in a flood, I had the best most expensive warranty... The car had a K&N exhaust, cat delete Y-pipe and A different exhaust... During the course of 11 months that I owned the car it went through $11,000 of repairs, YES ELEVEN THOUSAND, you read that correctly... Every time I heard something, or felt something, I took it in, I used and abused the warranty to keep my car at tip top shape... Had the seat base replaced twice which cost several thousand each time, 3 struts were changed, engine mount, 3 window motors and regulators, and a few other things that I can't remember off the top of my head...
I know a guy at corporate, and he said mods like intake and exhaust are 100% ok, any mod is ok until something breaks... And then, ONLY then can they start blaming your mods, they can for instance blame a transmission failure because you changed your intake, now, your MAF's... If they die, yeah, you're SOL, or if your engine blows up they can ONLY blame the intake and exhaust if it was clogged or if a bolt from the intake was sucked into the manifold or something

Lastly, I bought my used Z a few days ago with the "wrap warranty which covers the WHOLE car to 7 years 100,000 miles for $1942, a dollar over invoice, ANY dealershit can sell it to you for that price, but ONLY when you purchase it ON that day... And I got the bronze service care kit which essentially covers the synthetic oil changes to 7 years 105,000 miles for $742