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If you actually were well read on the subject, you'd learn that legitimate service contracts typically return .91 cents on the dollar. Yes, this means you lose 9 cents per dollar spent on average. Some people don't use their service contract, some people use it a few times and break even or close to it, and some people use it a ton and would have been hosed if they hadn't had it. It's called transfer of risk. You have to ask yourself is the monthly payment increase or cash price worth the not having to worry about it or coming up with hundreds or thousands of dollars at any given time. I make excellent money. I still do not want to cough up an unexpected $1,000 bucks, which by the way is quickly becoming the average repair for a Honda on any given shop repair visit. Guess what the National Highway Loss Data Institute discovered in 2005 when they stopped studying costs of vehicle accidents and studied the average car repair for all vehicles. Over $3,900 bucks per incident, and this study was based off what the service contract companies paid out mind you, not the stupid customers who paid cash for their giant repairs because there was no way to track those numbers. This study is now nearly 7 years old. Do you think the cost of repairs has gone up perhaps? You and anyone are entitled to your opinion on service contracts, they are an insurance policy. But making statements like what you just said makes me think you are either poorly read on the subject or my grandfathers age. You want to know where the giant profits are? Try the repair shop. Don't believe me? Go look at a fire escape plan at your local dealership and you tell me where 85% of the floor plan is dedicated to. You guessed it, the repair shop. Do you think if they make so much profit off the cars and warranties that they would give all that valuable space to the shop guys? Space is a commodity my friend. If you are right, then why don't they have one repair bay and then a giant sales floor and huge sprawling finance offices, and 50 finance managers selling those super profitable warranties. You are living in la la land and basing your blanket statements off facts that were true over 20 years ago. Time to catch up with the times dude. Oh and one more thing, good luck with your major problem recall theory. Yes, if nationwide everyone has a problem it's a recall. If a lot of people have an issue they can issue a service bulletin. What happens when problems arise which don't meet the government recall or bulletin standards, you end up paying. And it takes a huge amount of problems before a manufacturer is forced to pay for repairs. And what happens when you find out you are one of the lucky folks whose car just broke, or your CD player or NAVI stopped working, or your window motor wore out, or your doors don't unlock. Pull out that credit card buddy boy. Nothing get's me more fired up than the uneducated. Good for all you people who did your research and bought a service contract. One last thing, you can negotiate to a certain extent if the dealer wants to that is. Buying a service contract is smart, paying too much for it is as stupid as the guy who doesn't buy one and thinks they make all the money on them. The reason they push warranties on people is because studies show that a customer who purchases a car AND a warranty is extremely more likely to return to that dealer for repairs and maintenance even if the warranty allows them to take it anywhere they want. Why? Well because they don't have to pay for repairs because of the warranty and most people develop a relationship with their service advisors and dealership personnel if the experience was a pleasant one. They make the most money off service, repairs and maintenance, and they would rather have you not pay for it and sign your name and give thumbs up reviews and smile while you whistle dixie out the front door then not buy a warranty and come in and bitch and complain and yell at the receptionist because she asked for your card to run it for $2600 bucks because you were such a smarty and decided not to buy the warranty. It's not rocket science that they push those towards people. A customer with 8 years of free repairs is a happy, loyal and repeat customer typically. The idiot who doesn't buy one stops coming in after their free 3/36 manufacturer defect warranty expires. And that's a good thing too because they are they ones who bitch and complain about EVERYTHING. Good riddens. |
IMHO, a waste of money.
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I bought an extended warranty for my '05 S2000. Will I ever use it? No, probably not (especially since Honda doesn't fix soft top issues that are in fact a defect of the mechanism :mad:). I also purchased one for my '11 370z. To me it's worth the piece of mind so I factor that into every car I purchase, period. I've done the whole 'mod the crap out of a car' thing before and enjoyed doing all the work myself. Can I replace an alternator, oil pan gasket, rear diff? Sure...no biggie really. Do I want to spend my Sunday doing that? Nope! To me it's not so much the $, it's more the time. With all the sensors and such diagnosing a problem can be a pain in the *** these days. I make a decent salary and just don't want to worry about it for 8 years, so to me it's not a waste of $. Although, I will admit from a pure fiscal standpoint it probably is a waste. It's always a gamble. For the extra bumper-to-bumper protection I paid less than a new set of quality tires for this car. |
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i paid $2000 for extended gold premium - i get all service done at the dealership for no fee. so far, that means oil changes and they replaced a missing lug nut.
for me - well worth it. |
I never buy an extended warantee anymore. You can't mod your car, race your car, do burn outs, etc... There is a super long list of things they use to void your warantee with and believe me they have in my case.
After a couple of claims that the warantee companies would not pay and they made me pay the dealer prices, I said nut to them. I can get things fixed for less through qualified ASE Mechanics or do it myself. Also remember they do not pay out on items that do not work the way you want them too. slow motors etc.. Only items that are broken. If it still works even intermittantly they won't pay. It has to be completely broken and replaced. Some find ways around that though. Now looking back at the thoundsands I've saved... I'm happy. You have to understand though; I've bought a new vehicle just about every year of my adult life. That includes, boats, motorhomes, JEEPs, Quads, etc... If something comes up I just fix it myself. Most everything I've had to fix has been under $500. Don't forget things like brakes, clutches, tires, wipers, oil changes, fluid and fluid changes are not covered. That is where I spend the most money.... Tires have been the greatest of all these evils for me. If you blow a tranny or engine it's still cheaper after 3 years to buy a one used at the junkyard. Oh, and you get a warantee with that. You don't a new motor in a car that has 36K on it imo. Rebuilt is just fine. That comes in about $2K ... BUT, you have to be able to do your own work. It's the labor that gets most people. So in closing ... For some it's still worth the cost due to the labor part of things. |
"For the extra bumper-to-bumper protection I paid less than a new set of quality tires for this car."
LOL but, you still have to buy the tires, brakes, clutches... :bowrofl: |
just wondering would let's say a chipped splash guard and a scraped side skirt be covered since i have the gold plus preferred have had car for 5 months so far
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Just bought a 2012 this past sunday, can someone please forward me the dealer in california? I'm in LA.
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Can someone pm me the dealer contact in Cali?
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It is listed in the thread. It would be the Nissan Dealership in Santa Rosa, CA. If you are looking for best price on extended warranties. Google if you need additional info. good luck.
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I bought my car with 4k miles on it. I bought it slightly over cost, so I already knew they would put in the pro vegas contract dealer after I told them I was firm and if they did A closer I would walk. I was very good but the contract guy was better. This is why they didn't want me to come in with a check as I already knew the out the door price with tax and fees as I looked it up myself. Anyhow, I got 4% (I know it goes as low as 3%) with average credit and since my bank offered 6% it was the same out the door price. But he played 3 card monty with me showing me the figures on hard copy saying the computer was not transmitting then said ok it transmitted sighn electronically and like magic my 6yr 100k $2k price ended up being $2.5k. I asked about the 120k and got side tracked. I have security+ and the car is certified.
Anyhow, I also bought my F150 1 years old and I received offers from Ford to purchase directly from them. Nissan will do the same if you fill out the registration and extended warranty cards. Every year closer to the end of the original warranty the reduced the price on the extended warranty. I have to look at mine but I think it only says security+ and no gold or platinum and it's supposed to be no deductable. I also ended up buying the gap insurance since I financed 100% and the loan was now higher then the discounted sales price. |
i paid 1300 for 6years/72k i think i got the gold+ but not to sure. guy told me it covers my tranny and anything else that could break due to harsh conditions.
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Keeping in mind you are probably really paying for the upper range of mileage and years on these, it seems best that if you're going to buy one at all you might as well go with most miles and years possible, as most things start to break as the car approaches 100k miles. So I've narrowed my choice down to the 3 I've highlighted above here are the prices with $75 added for over 12k miles on vehicle and $0 deductible 370Z Gold Preferred 72 Month 75,000 Mile Coverage CODE: 370Z72m75k Price: $1,260.00 or 17 Monthly Payments @ 0% APR.: $66.71 10% Down Payment: $126.00 370Z Gold Preferred 72 Month 100,000 Mile Coverage CODE: 370Z72m100k Price: $1,700.00 or 17 Monthly Payments @ 0% APR.: $90.00 10% Down Payment: $170.00 370Z Gold Preferred 84 Month 120,000 Mile Coverage CODE: 370Z84m120k Price: $2,117.00 or 17 Monthly Payments @ 0% APR.: $112.08 10% Down Payment: $211.70 |
I disagree 100%
On my 2009 Maxima which got totaled in a flood, I had the best most expensive warranty... The car had a K&N exhaust, cat delete Y-pipe and A different exhaust... During the course of 11 months that I owned the car it went through $11,000 of repairs, YES ELEVEN THOUSAND, you read that correctly... Every time I heard something, or felt something, I took it in, I used and abused the warranty to keep my car at tip top shape... Had the seat base replaced twice which cost several thousand each time, 3 struts were changed, engine mount, 3 window motors and regulators, and a few other things that I can't remember off the top of my head...
I know a guy at corporate, and he said mods like intake and exhaust are 100% ok, any mod is ok until something breaks... And then, ONLY then can they start blaming your mods, they can for instance blame a transmission failure because you changed your intake, now, your MAF's... If they die, yeah, you're SOL, or if your engine blows up they can ONLY blame the intake and exhaust if it was clogged or if a bolt from the intake was sucked into the manifold or something Lastly, I bought my used Z a few days ago with the "wrap warranty which covers the WHOLE car to 7 years 100,000 miles for $1942, a dollar over invoice, ANY dealershit can sell it to you for that price, but ONLY when you purchase it ON that day... And I got the bronze service care kit which essentially covers the synthetic oil changes to 7 years 105,000 miles for $742 Quote:
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What do you mean by having the seat base replaced?
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You can buy the Nissan Extended warranty any time in the first 3 years of ownership on a new car. Also you really didn't get that great of a deal on your warranty. That may be $1 over THAT dealerships invoice but if thats true then other dealerships have lower invoices. See Santa Rosa's warranty pricing. I think you could have saved a few hundred dollars but you don't indicate if you bought the 0 or $50 deductable.
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All the metalwork of the seat and the physical seat cushion on the driver's seat including the seat heaters and all that good stuff.
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1. yes you can get full factory warranty up to the first 36 months or 36,000 miles of the original warranty, whichever comes first. and yes you can still get the $0 deductible.... however if you have gone past 12000 miles before you decide to purchase the extended warranty the price of the warranty and the $o deductible option increases, albeit not that significantly. 2. I was quoted $1471 for 7 years and 100,000 miles assuming the car has less than 12000 miles currently and $50 deductible. since my car has over 12k and I would want $0 deductible the price would rise approximately $300 bringing it closer to what you paid and since you got your warranty from your local dealership it might be worth the extra money you paid for your warranty to establish that relationship, so you didn't do too bad on your price. 3. That said, Santa Rosa Nissan does have the best bottom line prices on extended warranties |
Just bought a 2012, 1734 for the 100k,72 month, not sure on the deductible.
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So I'm trying to figure out if the $50 deductible applies when you are replacing hoses/belts? Also, would the deductible apply if you take the car in and they don't find anything? I'm thinking about getting the warranty mainly because of the steering wheel lock issue that I keep hearing about for the 2009's. I'm at 35,000 miles so I've gotta make a choice soon.
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Steering wheel lock broke on me....such a pain. Would have cost me around 1500. Yeah, I'm going to purchase the 72/86 month warrantee in the next month.
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I'm about to buy and I'm trying to decide between 72/100k ($1700) and 96/120k ($2360) both of these warranties are with $0 deductible from santa rosa nissan and considering the 0% financing through Nissan not bad prices at all.
just wondering if I decide to upgrade cars at say 67 months in can I sell the remainder of the warranty along with the car? |
Warranty Point
When you purchase, say a 7 yr plan, and your car is a 2012(mine isnt) are you not only getting a 4yr plan since you have a factory 3yr/36k plan already. It has always been that way in every warranty ive seen. I have never bought a warranty plan for any product. They are a money maker for the issuer. My Z has few miles and i use it only for cruising and showboating.. I agree with one early poster on the subject that just put the money aside as a repair fund. But it depends on your driving habits also.
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Me: So I'm trying to figure out if the $50 deductible applies when you are replacing hoses/belts?
Rep: It's a $50 per visit deductible. So it applies to any visit were a repair is made. Me: Ok - so would there wouldn't be a deductible if I made a visit and no repair was made? Rep: That's correct Just a FYI |
Took my 370 in
I took my 370 in last Tuesday (2/14) for a bunch of SMALL problems...
Fuel gauge never read full Driver's door squeaked Passenger door speaker rattled a BIT Trunk wouldn't always pop open So, they had my car and I said I'd come back on Friday, got a call Friday, they said the instrument cluster is on backorder and since it has my odometer reading they NEED to special order it from Nissan so they program it with the correct miles... They said, Monday, AKA today... They said the fuel lights still don't light up (fuel sending unit)... I said, I can come back Thursday... Now why do I have these random days??? I took my car in to a Houston dealership, and I live in Dallas and go to school in Dallas. So I took it from Houston to Dallas (250 miles) BACK to Houston (250 miles), then took my girlfriend from Houston to Austin (200 miles), then back to Houston (200 miles), now in Dallas (250 miles) and once I go back to Houston (250 miles) Let's do the math, 1400 miles on SOMEONE ELSE'S CAR!!! And that's not counting the other miscellaneous stops I made in any city or my 15 mile commute to class or work or anything... As much as I love driving my 370, freeway drives don't need to be done with my sports car, a Maxima/Altima will do just fine. :happydance::driving::rofl2: Quote:
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This is the first vehicle that I have ever bought an extended warranty on and I may regret it if I don't use it, but I also have home owner's, auto, m/c, life, health and other insurances as well. They are all the same, they are great if you need them but there's hell to pay if you need them and don't have them.
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Agree
Yeah, it sucks if you don't use it, but take it from my experience, if ANYTHING at all goes wrong or isn't EXACTLY how it was when you first bought the car, take it to the dealer and have them fix it, YOU should make your warranty worth it!
And if that's your 370 in your profile picture, it looks great! Quote:
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to each his own. i used up all my factory warranty right up to 35,500
then bought a extended plan good up to 75,000 for 1050. because i plan on trading then. saving the money every month just in case doesn't make sense to me sorry.. what if something happens 3 months out your screwed.... |
Mods?
So if i mod my z does that void all warrentys?
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I bought a CPO 2009 370Z and got them to throw in the 7yr/100K mile Wrap warranty as part of the deal on the car. However they figured it I didn't care as I told them my price OTD for the car period. This is the warranty with no deductible, covers the rental if needed, etc.
The price they put on there was $1227. I also got the 5yr wheel warranty as well. The guy started off at like $500 for that, and I was like no way, and at the end he said ok, $308. One wheel had a small scrape on it so I bit and will have that repaired soon. That one wheel repair alone pays for the wheel warranty. I'm normally not big on buying warranties, but since they threw it in with the price of the car I figured what the heck. I normally do all my own work on my cars, but if some expensive electronics go out (like the key lock) I'm good. If you're not good at working on cars, it's not a bad deal for the peace of mind if you can get it for $1500 - $1600 IMO. |
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I wonder too... I plan to get a CBE in the near future, but wonder if it will void my warranty? |
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Using your warranty
The KEY to getting the most out of your warranty is to take it to the dealershit for EVERY SINGLE SMALL thing... Make sure your car stays 100% new. Door handle jiggles, fix it, door vibrates, fix it, door locks don't open as smoothly as they did before, get it fixed!!! It's not like it's costing you any money...
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Just purchased the 96month, 100k mile Security+Plus Gold Preferred warrantee from Santa Rose Nissan. I paid 1,650 w/ a $50 deductable.
Here is why Santa Rose can sell so cheap... Unlike typical dealers who make commission on each individual warrantee sold, Santa Rosa gets paid based on sales numbers. This method obviously passes the discount on to the customer. They have an e-Commerce site that you can log into to buy the warrantee. You must be emailed a user ID and password from the selling agent at Santa Rosa first. It’s totally legit and by far the best price you can find. You do have to get your vehicle inspected before the warrantee can be applied to your car. This can be done at your local dealer for around 100$ I believe (I’ve yet to get it inspected) I’m pretty stoked that my Z is covered for another 5 years, 100k :happydance: |
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