Fixed...Steering Lock Assembly (48700-JF00D) as well. My Z has 71,000 (2009). I have car warrenty so paid nothing...would have been $900 with labor and tax.

The TSB is NTB12-041. You can see a copy at Nissanhelp.com | All About Nissan. If I recall the TSB applies to a number of Nissan vehicles including some 2011 and 2012 370Z's.

intelligent key system warning light - resolution
 

Hey guys,

I recently had a bad experience with my 370Z and I'll like to share with you all.

Went to my garage and pressed the start button but nothing happend. The "Vehicle information display" was displaying "intelligent key system warning light".
The start button, wen pressed, went from ACC to ON but with no engine response, complete dead.

Troubleshooting:
1- check on the voltmeter for the battery voltage. (between 12 a 14 volts)
2- check the battery from your key (the 370z come with a "low battery warning light" that should let you know when to replace your battery key. This sigh will be displayed at the vehicle information display")
Ps: the doors should be opening and close locking and unlocking, headlight plus all lights internal and external should be just fine.

Resolution:

1- tow truck needs to be called. :shakes head:
2- take to the Nissan dealer.
3- the problem it'll be:

* Lock Steering 48700-JF00D $ 689.89
* Bolt 48703-06F04 $ 2.88
* Overnight freight $ 63 (be careful, don't let then full you. Tell then you will not pay any freight. In my case I have warranty so I pay just the deductible 50$)
* Labor $ 297.99
* tow. $ 111 ( of course will depend on where you r located and where are you going).
* Others (they described as: "subl grahams wrecker inv#411110 cn) $78
* misc. charges: 40.23

TOTAL: 1166.31 $

Well I got done at Nissan Bankston on the 4707 obj freeway Dallas.

Ok guys let me know what you think or if you need any help since passed through this already!!!

See you all later .....


Ricks. :tiphat:

Same thing happened to me today. The car is sitting at the dealership and I will be calling Nissan tomorrow to see if they will do anything for me. I'm tired of all the car problems I have gotten with the Z. It's my first Z and first Nissan. They're not giving me any confidence in their brand an reliability.

Add me to the list. My GF drove it to work on a rainy Christmas Eve. Came out after work, no start.. nothing. She was telling me the symptoms, and I thought she was crazy, so I tossed the jump box in my car and headed to her work. No soap. The car sat at the Chrysler dealership where she works over Christmas. Took her to work this morning... tried the battery cable removal and the steering wheel bang trick to no avail. I can go back and tap the lock to see if it unlocks. The car has 46k miles, and I think she has the extended warranty, but I dunno. If not, I'll fix it and probably sell the car.

This car has been the worst vehicle I've ever owned. For a year it had leaky injectors. Nobody could figure it out even though I told them that it had classic "leaky injector syndrome." I learned about this syndrome when mid '80s RX7s would come into the shop flooded. I have a F350 with 340k miles. I have a VW Jetta TDI with 229k miles. Hell, I have a 430rwhp '94 RX7, and it's more reliable than this Z. A RX7 is more reliable?!? Funny thing is... we were talking a week ago about selling the RX7 and the Z and buying a GTR. I don't see that happening now. She wants a new Challanger RT8. This car is babied and perfectly maintained, but is falling apart around us. We don't even drive it hard. If we want to go fast, we take the RX7. I'll keep you guys informed.

Ok, so after digging through this forum, I got the car home without a tow. After tons of tapping and banging on stuff, I climbed down in the floor, pulled the "security" bolts with bent needle nose pliers, pushed the plunger all the way in with a screwdriver, saw the "BRAKE" message on the display come on and noticed the "Key" warning was off. Hit the starter, and it cranked up. I unplugged the lock, tossed it in the passenger floor (after wiping 2 lbs of yellow grease off of everything) and drove it home.

When I got home, I put the mechanism in my vice and used a small bolt and c-clamp to hold the lock plunger all the way down. I drilled holes through the case just across the face of the depressed plunger and put in a roll pin... ok... I screwed in a screw, broke off the heads, filed it flat and epoxied it in place. I also pulled the fuse. Car starts fine. Did I fix it correctly? NO. Does it crank and run until I can get another? YES. Am I actually going to get another??? I dunno. Maybe after all you suckers use up all the old ones and we are on revision Q I might.

That said, before you assume all is lost because it died before you clipped the brown wire, pulled the fuse, etc, push the lock all the way into its housing and see if you can get the car running. I've seen too much damage caused by wrecker drivers to let them pull on one of my cars. Besides... you might be able to get it home quickly and more easily if you have access to the pliers. Man... those bolts aren't really secure.

Thanks to everybody here for all the information. I would post pictures... but my GS3 doesn't seem to like my Linux Ubuntu pc.

Your answer to the second question means your answer to the first question is wrong. ;)

Glad to hear it turned out well. :tup:

Attachment 60767

Well I thought they fixed it in December, looks like i was wrong. Car died on me at the grocery store yesterday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This happend to me about 2 months ago! After not driving the car for 2 weeks, decided to take it out, fill her up and when I went to start it...Nothing! Sad day for me, it was the solenoid as well, and luckily under warranty...took about 10 days to get the car back as it happend saturday night, and part on back-order.

Just happened to me. Stuck at the super market right now waiting for a tow. Great Saturday night. I hope this can be fixed easily. Tried disconnecting battery for 2 minutes and pumping the break. No luck. Key Light on. Window down. Steering wheel not locked but can't shift into neutral either. FML.

Looks like needle noise pliers should be standard in the tool kit. You can probably get it running in minutes by pulling the bolts and pushing the plunger all the way in inside the solenoid. It worked for me, at least. No new lock. Car still starts.

So is it better to buy the harness or just pull the fuse? Any issue with pulling the fuse? I assume you must have the car in ACC or ON so the solenoid plunger has pulled back, than just pull it? No CEL afterwords or anything? I want to do one or the other soon, I have an 09 and don't want to take chances.

Yes. :)
The harness is an easier job, but pulling the fuse is free. Cutting the brown wire is easy and free, but much more difficult to restore if that ever becomes necessary.

None have been reported with any of the three methods.

That's all there is to it. No runs, no drips, no error codes.

Godspeed.

Dealer replaced the steering wheel lock with a revision D version and everything seems better... except: Now when the Climate Control is on auto mode it's blow hot air at full blast no matter what i set it to. If i set it to 60 it blows lukewarm air. But always at full fan speed. It never used to do that. Any ideas?

Just happened to me today when I was trying to leave for class. Waited over an hour for the tow truck and ended up missing my god damn exam. Almost didn't make it up on the flat bed.
EDIT: Nissan just called today and told me the steering lock control unit shorted out and its going to cost me $1167 to replace it.