GBHRPS,

This forum wants a URL for the photo which I provided but let me try again.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnkN40NPs47-gahoT3-R4Ey3eYaEug

Same issue that I had
 

As posted earlier in this thread. So far still Ok. It's been 5 years with fingers crossed :driving:

You can see my post pictures at: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-r...ml#post3329785

Found the broken wires
 

Thanks to the guidance of Top Hydraulics and many posters here, my mechanic was able to isolate the culprit – see pix. Pinched wires causing a short. The wires are located on the driver’s side and attached to the hinge / arm bracket that lifts the rear cover. They run to the 5th bow lock attached to the cover. You have to remove the protective sleeve to expose the wires. They pinch just below the little black casing that holds the wires to the arm. 10 cents of electrical tape = problem solved. No thanks to my Nissan dealership and they’re “replace the whole roof solution”. I’ll never go back there again. Pain in the *** and poor design flaw but easily fixed. Big props to Top Hydraulics and this forum

dtman and Cryogenius,

Guys! Thanks for posting the pictures. I can't tell you how much that is going to help people out.

Watching this Roadster section of the forum since 2017 I been able to piece together from many sources that MOST of the top issues out there are about the top striking the storage compartment door (the other way around) on opening (new bungee cord design seems to solve that issue so far), and top inoperable due to pinched broken wires somewhere on the driver's side harness at the hinge.

But NOW ... everyone knows where to start looking for the broken wires due to your help, and Top Hydraulics with Karl in Oregon and his top repair videos on YouTube.

I'm going to open my top part way shortly (still in the 40 degree range here) and check that section of the harness to see if its folding underneath a hinge or an arm that might be pinching it. Perhaps using some tape or such could pull it slightly in another direction out of harms way. I'll have to see and report back.

The more we know .... the better to make the repairs ourselves and save big dollars.

Gene

GREAT JOB - Fixing & Posting This Top Wire Fix - :bowrofl:
One Question - At What Point OR How Do You Insert The 2 X 4 Support
Obviously It Must Be Needed To Keep The Top In That Position
Please Explain That Important Step - THANKS - :tiphat:

The location where mine pinched is just below the black plastic case that holds the wires to the lift arm. The up / down action with flexing wires attached to an immoveable bracket is where the problem arises. We just detached it from the bracket rewrapped it and let it move freely with only the hydraulic line left in the bracket. Still keeping an eye on it for issues.

As for the 2x4 – once the lid is open, I just stuck it in to hold it open and allow more space to work.

The hardest part of the whole job is removing the 5th bow lock if your system won’t open. Top Hydraulics show how to do that in their videos.

Best of luck everyone.

Dear 370Z forum members,
Just a short message from France to thank you for all your informations and pictures helping me to solve my roadster roof problem (stop half way !). Nissan was only able to give me DTC code B177D meaning "open sensor failure" and impossible to solve a "simple problem" except by changing all the roof system for more than 20K€. Finally, with the help of Klaus and videos from TOP HYDRAULICS, i decided to change myself the 2 main lift cylinders (little oil leak) and also discover a non visible cut wire (green wire "open sensor"). After reconnection of the green wire, my roof now perfectly work and stronger with the excellent cylinders from TOP HYDRAULICS. Picture attached show you exactly where was the "cut wire". Finally, this "big problem" for Nissan was not so difficult to solve ... and hope it will help you if needed.

I wish the top on our 370z is a simple one like the Boxter, just fold into the compartment, no lid no complicate hinges and actions..

I saw the post from mikeshay, and I have the exact same issue with mine, both sides :icon14:

I did a search for couple months and found some other roadster owners have the same issue.

The problem is, Nissan doesn't make or sell those parts, (I'll tell you why later in this post)

So I am stuck, too.

Went to a shop and originally I was thinking have them remove the top and remove the part, then bring the part to a machine shop to see if they can machine a replacement.

However, thinking the cost and possibility, remove the top, take it apart, and if someone can machine the part, without knowing too much details about the size/shape/ material of the part, is pretty risky, since it might end up someone unable to machine the part.

On the other hand, even if someone can machine the part, there's no guarantee how good the top will perform or last after taking it apart and put it back together and you know, the Z top is an "unique" piece.


Eventually, not wanting to pay CAD$20k+, so...


Look up eBBay or whatever places/website they have a salvaged 370z roadster, just buy the whole top from them, cost is anywhere $3k - $5k.

Have a shop to swap the top, done!

That's what I did to mine, and it works perfectly now, plus, I have an extra set of pump, ECU and 20 hydraulics sitting in my basement just in case.


Just a note for those who run into the same problem in the future, don't pay $20k to Nissan.

My shop lube all the hinges on the replacement top, thus it works quiet and smooth now.

so I take a closer look on the old top, and realize the broken bracket is actually a big piece of cast metal, and the shape is impossible for a shop to duplicate.

The broken piece that disclose under the canvas, is only a small bit of the whole.

The bracket actually extended to as part of the pillar behind the window.

Size is big and the shape is awkward.

No wonder Nissan doesn't sell the part because it's very difficult to remove it from the frame.

And Nissan/Magma, design this part to be this delicate.... :ugh2:

Top won't close
 

Top opened okay but now won't close. I hear the relay pick up and the pump motor run for a bit. Not sure it is related but about a week ago the driver side door would not unlock until I put the top up. I will check the wiring once I get it open as well as fuses. The car is driven about 5 times a week. 51K on it garaged. I am electrically/ somewhat mechanically versed. Anything I can check on my own. I will check the wiring at the week point. Any help is appreciated.

does the front latch ?

yes it does.. Once the top moves it acts like normal.. plan ti checking the wiring today. any other suggestions is appreciated.. my local nissan dealer is worthless

yes it does.. Once the top moves it acts like normal.. plan ti checking the wiring today. any other suggestions is appreciated.. my local nissan dealer is worthless

UPDATE. I fixed the wiring harness on the arm it was not in great shape. But now the top will either go up or down. what was interested when I took the connector that holds the hydraulic lines all pressure was released.. I see no leaks on it. Was wondering how to check the fluid on the hydraulic system? what else can I check/do? thanks

marksta,

You may not get an answer here because so few Roadster owners are wrenchers who are willing to tackle an issue like yours. So, contact Klaus at TopHydraulics.com.
Top Hydraulics, Inc
3235 Pacific View Drive
Florence, Oregon 97439
USA

541-902-3214

info@tophydraulics.com

Be sure to fully describe your issue, as these guys are the only true experts at repairing the problems with 370z tops. Watch their YouTube videos on 370z Roadster top fixes and you'll see what I mean.

Give them a call or an email.

Gene

Will do.. Look at again last time today than I will give them a call.. Appreciate your response