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-   -   370z roof won't move warning light on (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-roadster-convertible/107170-370z-roof-wont-move-warning-light.html)

dsmarks2002 09-30-2015 08:27 AM

Glad to hear they could correct the issue so easily. My dealership was not, and has also concluded the issue is with the wiring harness. They attempted to fix the harness but after a few open and closes same issue resulted. They're now saying I need a new roof because the harness isn't available as a separate part. I've been contact with Nissan over this since the car has less that 30k miles but it out warranty, best I can get it Nissan to pay 50% of the 7K repair price.

KenB 10-01-2015 07:15 PM

Sorry to hear that. So ... it makes me wonder just what this part is?

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickD

Why can't you buy it from this site for $100?

Nissan 370Z (2010-2014). #240691ET0A: Convertible Top Wiring Harness. Harness.

dsmarks2002 10-08-2015 02:24 PM

Got the car back, they did install the part mentioned above, though that part is not a complete harness. They found one or more sections of the harness that had chaffed, worn through the insulation and were shorting out and throwing a fault. The repaired those breaks in the harness, re-taped everything out of they way and replaced a couple of other suspect parts. The tech opened and closed 6-7 times successfully. Now I'm at a tipping point, not sure how long the fix will last before it happens again, it cost me about $450 to fix this time, and I'm sure if it happens again they'll be less likely to want to fix it, and will want to install the 7k replacement top.

Seems crazy that they can't install an entirely new, and hopefully improved harness and have to install a 7k part, the rest of the mechanical, hydraulics, etc are fine, so I'd just be throwing them away, or they'd scavenge mine for parts to fix others.

So do I sell/trade or see how long it lasts......?

SouthArk370Z 10-08-2015 02:27 PM

As long as they have the wiring out of the way of the mechanical parts, you should be OK. I'd check it several times a year to make sure nothing has shifted.

KenB 10-14-2015 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsmarks2002 (Post 3325061)
... repaired those breaks in the harness, re-taped everything out of they way and replaced a couple of other suspect parts...

The tech that repaired mine used standard electrical tape. I was able to add a layer of self 'vulcanizing' tape for extra protection while keeping the area flexible. Keeping my fingers crossed. I'll try to capture a few pics of the area and post later.

dsmarks2002 10-15-2015 09:06 AM

Would greatly appreciate the pics and may try to do the same with mine.

Much thanks

NickD 10-15-2015 10:17 AM

Yes please post pics of the wires that were rubbing so we can proactively protect ours!

KenB 10-17-2015 09:08 AM

3 Attachment(s)
As promised. here are a few pics of the repaired area. Unfortunately I was not able to capture the wires before they were taped. The problem area is circled in red, followed by a closer view.

I am also noticing that the hydraulic lines that go into the harness clamp are looking a bit worse for wear as well. I don't know if this routing has been modified on models after 2010. It would be good to compare with newer models.

SouthArk370Z 10-17-2015 09:52 AM

Thanks for posting the pics.

I like to use spiral wrap* instead of electrical tape for applications like this. It provides more protection and has none of the mess that the tape's adhesive becomes after a short time. YMMV

*not a recommendation, just the first example I found.

KenB 10-19-2015 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 3329795)
.... I like to use spiral wrap* instead of electrical tape for applications like this. It provides more protection and has none of the mess that the tape's adhesive becomes after a short time. YMMV

*not a recommendation, just the first example I found.

Thanks ... agreed. If the wire cores are not exposed then this should do the job. I would probably still fusion tape the end edge of the wrap to prevent a new wear problem.

In my case I needed to recover (insulate) exposed (frayed) wires. A self vulcanizing (amalgamating or fusion) silicon tape gives a good weather resistance flexible seal without the mess of electrical tape. I am afraid to add anything else as this might make the wire bundle too stiff.

dsmarks2002 10-26-2015 12:38 PM

frpm bad to worse
 
My issues went from bad to worse, got it back with the wiring harness repaired, top opened fine, first close and I have a puddle of fluid in the back. Back in the shop and they say it'll cost 6k to repair. Think I'll get them to get the top locked, take it to and independent repair shop and see if I can get it fixed cheaper, then it's getting sold. Too bad, I loved the car up until now.

LennyK 11-10-2015 01:34 PM

Nice information - hope to prevent my wires from fraying with extra wrap:iagree:

dsmarks2002 11-11-2015 08:44 AM

Top issues
 
For those looking to proactively prevent top problem these guys sell anything you need to tackle line replacement and pump rebuilds. They sell better than stock replacement parts.

Rebuild/Upgrade Service for 2009+ Nissan 350z Convertible Hydraulic Components - Top Hydraulics, Inc

catching Zs 12-08-2015 06:26 PM

Thanks to all for sharing this wealth of information about the convertible top issue. I am also experiencing an intermittent problem with the my 2010 top partially opening or partially closing. It takes multiple attempts to open but fewer attempts to close. I recognize the symptoms in the posts here. It is time to "raise the roof" and take a tour to look for chaffed wires. Thanks for the pictures, detailed descriptions of dealings with dealerships, and the alternative parts source if replacements are needed. Good stuff all y'all!

dsmarks2002 12-09-2015 08:21 AM

Sounds like wiring to me, good luck in your search and repair, hope you get it knocked out.


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